Tahoe & Suburban The power, space, and brutal towing ability make the Tahoe and its longer sibling, the Suburban, arguably the best full size SUV's on the market today.

2013 Chevrolet Suburban
Platform: GMT 400, 800, 900

Newbie with questions!

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Old Jun 22, 2013 | 8:45 PM
  #11  
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Read this:

https://chevroletforum.com/forum/tah...-filter-58896/
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 3:20 PM
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What did you ever figure out with your Bouncing gas gage? I am having the exact same issue.
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 5:23 AM
  #13  
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The guage issue is more common than you may know. You need a new fuel pump module (in tank).

Mushy Brakes? Flush your brake system with clean brake fluid using a vacuum brake bleeder. I put drilled and slotted rotors on mine, and it improved braking substantially.

AC? Cabin air filter, if so equipped. If not, there is probably some dirt and grime in the evaporator. You can remove the blower fan, then either shop vac or hose out the evaporator. make sure the condensate drain is clear. I vac'd them, because the water hose will soak your floor.
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Old Aug 22, 2013 | 10:51 AM
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I will have to agree that the bouncing needle improved DRAMATICALLY after I replaced the dead fuel pump.

Also, if you hear that pump whining at all, replace it. The new Delco is SO quiet, you can't hear it... but the old OEM unit (still had the original connector) was so noisy.. damn...

It's not a hard job, but by all means, wait for an empty or near empty tank! You will regret it otherwise. I had little choice... and it sucked... 2/3rds of 44 gallon tank. yum.

Next time, I am cutting an access panel into the floor of the truck. Enough of this dropping the tank crap.

It's not hard, just annoying.

I replaced the pads and bled the system, the brakes still suck.
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Old Aug 22, 2013 | 1:24 PM
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Does your rig have vacuum assisted power brakes or hydro-boost brakes? Plus, don't just bleed the system. Flush it with new brake fluid. 4 wheel disc or rear drums? I hate crappy brakes. My 07 had crap brakes after a few years. Flushing and putting slotted rotors on made a big difference. Plus, some may disagree, but pay the extra for GM brake pads. Just my $.02

Last edited by Headache Ball; Aug 22, 2013 at 1:26 PM.
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Old Aug 23, 2013 | 8:57 AM
  #16  
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I did do a flush... not just bleed.

I used NAPA Ceramic pads, they have performed nicely for me in the past.

I am pretty sure it has a vacuum booster.
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Old Aug 24, 2013 | 4:34 AM
  #17  
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Hmmmmmm, okay, that narrows things down a bit. Do you know how to test your brake booster? If that checks out okay, you could possibly have an internal leak in your master cylinder. The only other place where the hydraulic system could go to crap is in the rubber hoses at each front wheel and at the rear axle.

**For those folks who may be scratching their heads... Ignition off, press the brake pedal and hold it. Start engine. Brake pedal should go down more once engine starts. If you brake pedal won't go down any futher, (farther, further) then your vacuum booster isn't boosting. If the engine is running a little rough or idling at a higher than normal speed, it may just be a vacuum leak between the engine and the booster.**
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Old Aug 25, 2013 | 2:51 PM
  #18  
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rule of thumb - firm pedal = bad booster, soft pedal = bad master.
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Old Aug 26, 2013 | 5:49 AM
  #19  
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Dude you are all over it. You'll have that thing like new in no time.
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Old Dec 18, 2013 | 11:45 AM
  #20  
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I had a similar problem. Air blowing out of both defrost and front ducts with low volume. Turns out motor that controls duct dampers was bad. Removed(it sit above and to right of gas pedal) turned shaft with pliers and moved to correct position. Sprayed some WD on shafts and springs. Didn't buy new motor. Just move manually when season changes.
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