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2013 Chevrolet Suburban
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Odd Radio Behavior 2009 1500 LT1 Suburban

Old Mar 23, 2015 | 8:55 PM
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Default Odd Radio Behavior 2009 1500 LT1 Suburban

I have a 2009 Suburban with 89K+ miles. The Radio stopped working. No clock, doesn't power on with the button, but the lighting for the push buttons do work. Then after not working for a couple weeks, it started working again for a day and then it stopped working and a couple days later started working again. I reset the clock and all seemed to be working. Today on the way home, none of the radio controls on the radio nor the steering wheel worked and the clock didn't advance in time. When I got out of the car, the radio didn't shut off, even after 10 minutes. The dome light didn't go on either, nor was there a chime. I disconnected the battery for 10 minutes and the radio is now off, but doesn't power on and is the condition that it was when it didn't work. Still no dome light on entry. Light works fine by the button.
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by Ponch
I have a 2009 Suburban with 89K+ miles. The Radio stopped working. No clock, doesn't power on with the button, but the lighting for the push buttons do work. Then after not working for a couple weeks, it started working again for a day and then it stopped working and a couple days later started working again. I reset the clock and all seemed to be working. Today on the way home, none of the radio controls on the radio nor the steering wheel worked and the clock didn't advance in time. When I got out of the car, the radio didn't shut off, even after 10 minutes. The dome light didn't go on either, nor was there a chime. I disconnected the battery for 10 minutes and the radio is now off, but doesn't power on and is the condition that it was when it didn't work. Still no dome light on entry. Light works fine by the button.
So much for help on this one...
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 1:44 PM
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electrical gremlins are a b!@# to trace.


Two things come to mind when I read your description.


1. bad ground
2. multipin connection issue.


I am pretty good with these gremlins and this is where I would start.
I would also get some dielectric grease and use it on every connection you can.
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 1:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Scotiapilot
electrical gremlins are a b!@# to trace.


Two things come to mind when I read your description.


1. bad ground
2. multipin connection issue.


I am pretty good with these gremlins and this is where I would start.
I would also get some dielectric grease and use it on every connection you can.
Well, it started working this morning and I could actually shut the radio off. I did reset the time and it held, the chime worked and the radio went off when I opened the door. I wonder if it's a BCM (body control module) issue or something in between as you suggest. I wonder if a bad door lock mechanism could cause it? My cruise control works intermittently too. I have read that a bad brake switch can cause that. Whatever the case, this vehicle wasn't worth the money I paid for it. Between the electrical gremlins, the door locks that don't work, the body molding that came off and had to be reattached and the oil burning issue due to the cylinder deactivation, I'll never buy another GM product again. All I did was help GM during the bailout and they didn't deserve it.
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 2:03 PM
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Default GM

Ponch and I agree on something I was also not a fan of my 09 Tahoe... over priced and under quality all around.
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Old Apr 2, 2015 | 4:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Ponch
Well, it started working this morning and I could actually shut the radio off. I did reset the time and it held, the chime worked and the radio went off when I opened the door. I wonder if it's a BCM (body control module) issue or something in between as you suggest. I wonder if a bad door lock mechanism could cause it? My cruise control works intermittently too. I have read that a bad brake switch can cause that. Whatever the case, this vehicle wasn't worth the money I paid for it. Between the electrical gremlins, the door locks that don't work, the body molding that came off and had to be reattached and the oil burning issue due to the cylinder deactivation, I'll never buy another GM product again. All I did was help GM during the bailout and they didn't deserve it.

Well that's even better for me to know. I think I would check with multipin connectors at power sources first. I am still shocked that are putting cpu and those connectors underhood.
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