Tahoe & Suburban The power, space, and brutal towing ability make the Tahoe and its longer sibling, the Suburban, arguably the best full size SUV's on the market today.

2013 Chevrolet Suburban
Platform: GMT 400, 800, 900

replacing compressor in 99 Burb

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old July 19th, 2019, 8:31 AM
  #1  
CF Beginner
Thread Starter
 
Bonzoso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default replacing compressor in 99 Burb

I have a 1999 Burb 5.7 L with rear air and blocked off the rear some years ago due to a leak. About a year ago the OEM Ht6 compressor sprung a leak and I stopped using it. There was no failure other than the leak. I bought a new Sanden compressor to replace it along with a accumulator and orifice tube.

The problem I'm having is that I was unable to remove the accumulator from the evaporator fitting at the firewall due to corrosion and I don't want to mess with potentially ruining the fitting and having to tear out the dash to get to the evaporator. I'm going to leave the oem accumulator alone and I have replaced the orifice tube.

The new Sanden compressor was charged with 4.5 oz. of sanden oil which they claim to be the proper amount for a normal replacement I got NO oil out of the old Ht6 compressor. Does anyone have any idea about how much oil I should remove from the Sanden compressor to balance this system or if any should be removed. I'm assuming the old accumulator should have the proper amount of oil in it. I did not do a flush of the system. I also did not replace the condenser. I'll appreciate any comments.

This is an old truck and if I can get another couple of years out of the AC system I'll be satisfied. I welcome your thoughts.
Old July 19th, 2019, 10:18 PM
  #2  
CF Pro Member
 
Cusser's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 906
Received 162 Likes on 134 Posts
Default

The older accumulators were a bitch to remove without damaging the evaporator threads. So since your issue was a leak and not compressor seizure, and you don't want to risk the evaporator by replacing the accumulator, I'd suggest leaving that oil in the compressor and just installing it. I've replaced compressors that had zero oil remaining in the old one, guessing you lost oil when you lost your R134a.

Pull a real good vacuum before adding refrigerant, NEVER add any sealers or refrigerant containing sealer, and recommend either adding UV dye to the oil as well.

For the record, I've replaced compressors in a 1994 Suburban and a 2005 Yukon; when I did the Yukon compressor I installed a new compressor and its separate belt tensioner only, did NOT replace its accumulator, and about 4 or 5 years later it still works great (Arizona).

Last edited by Cusser; July 19th, 2019 at 10:20 PM.
Old July 22nd, 2019, 10:56 AM
  #3  
CF Beginner
Thread Starter
 
Bonzoso's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Cusser
The older accumulators were a bitch to remove without damaging the evaporator threads. So since your issue was a leak and not compressor seizure, and you don't want to risk the evaporator by replacing the accumulator, I'd suggest leaving that oil in the compressor and just installing it. I've replaced compressors that had zero oil remaining in the old one, guessing you lost oil when you lost your R134a.

Pull a real good vacuum before adding refrigerant, NEVER add any sealers or refrigerant containing sealer, and recommend either adding UV dye to the oil as well.

For the record, I've replaced compressors in a 1994 Suburban and a 2005 Yukon; when I did the Yukon compressor I installed a new compressor and its separate belt tensioner only, did NOT replace its accumulator, and about 4 or 5 years later it still works great (Arizona).
Hey Cus, thanks for the input. Good info. I appreciate your response! Your suggestion is the way I proceeded. My cranking on that fitting might have caused a small leak. I added what seemed to be a full charge of refrigerant but by the high side vacuum pressure seemed to be a bit low for the ambient temp. at the time (95 deg 225 psi) but the temp/ pressure graph indicated max charge of 250- 300 psi. Couldn't get above 230 psi and I felt with my finger at the fitting gas escaping. so I stopped. and left it at about 225 psi. Was blowing cold and took it for a ride for about 1/2 hr. Checked pressure again and still holding at 225 psi. Also held well with initial vacuum purge for an hour. Might be a situation where the leak only starts above 225 psi. Took it on a trip this weekend and AC did great in 100 deg weather. I'll see how it does for now but may have to address this in the future.




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 7:23 AM.