Tahoe & Suburban The power, space, and brutal towing ability make the Tahoe and its longer sibling, the Suburban, arguably the best full size SUV's on the market today.

2013 Chevrolet Suburban
Platform: GMT 400, 800, 900

Should I just sell this and chalk it up to a loss?

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Old Dec 6, 2018 | 7:24 AM
  #11  
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Dude

You need to stop whining! Learn to fix it, have it fixed, or get rid of it.

Tom
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Old Dec 7, 2018 | 6:42 AM
  #12  
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Agree with the Fox about the whining, and with Tech2 who suggested budgeting $1200/year. You'll get another 100-150k miles out of your rig if you take care of it. Mine is garaged 6 months a year and gets about 7-8k miles per yr. Rides like a flying mattress, plows through the mud and runs across cut wheat fields like it was stolen. I love my truck and never think twice about putting money into it. In fact, I keep a running list of things I'm going to repair/replace/improve each year.

Way, way less expensive than new, and in my opinion, better built.
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Old Dec 7, 2018 | 8:33 AM
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Originally Posted by mstewart39
I bought my 2011 Suburban
Any advice? Words of encouragement?
Sucks that a vehicle of this age has an issue like this.


Originally Posted by mstewart39
Now my AC won't work, and I found out that I have a rupture in the rear AC line. A couple of garages claim they can't do the work because it takes a special crimp tool that costs over $1300. The dealership has quoted me $1,200 to fix the issue. Any advice? Words of encouragement?
Don't go to dealership; most often they have only factory-approved ways to repair, like replace whole assemblies. Find a real Auto AC Repair Shop in your area, they can fix much cheaper. Their business name will say auto AC, and they'll have expertise and experience.

Also, if no one is in the third seats, front-only AC will do a nice job, had this on my 1994 Suburban after I closed off the rear AC.
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Old Dec 11, 2018 | 10:43 AM
  #14  
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for the back windows not rolling up my 07 did that i changed the switches and got them from amazon for 11.99 each works like a charm
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Old Dec 11, 2018 | 1:37 PM
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I have a rear door's window in the 2005 Yukon that needs a new regulator or cable. So I raised that by hand and put a sheet metal screw in on each side to hold it up.
1. Rarely does anyone sit in the 2nd row anymore
2. Arizona, so windows would be up and AC on 99% of the time anyway.
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Old Dec 12, 2018 | 5:42 AM
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Replacing a window regulator and/or electric motor for them isn't that challenging. But if you're not generally going to use the window, a sheet metal screw will do just fine. Much less expensive a fix!

Never take my Burb to a dealer, but I do have a mechanic that can do things I can't, like compress coil springs and lower a fuel tank for pump replacement.
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Old Sep 3, 2021 | 3:47 PM
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Originally Posted by mstewart39
Okay, I feel a little better I guess...but it's still frustrating.
I half want to figure out how to do this on my own, but 2 garages have now looked at it and don't know how to fix this. The line is an aluminum line that I guess needs to be crimped in the center, and neither have this specialized tool to crimp it. The dealership is the only one who supposedly has this tool.
The line part # is 19257317. Anyone ever install one of these? Is there any way to install it without the magic tool?
I know that this is an old thread but I got here by searching the part number and there was no resolution. After considerable effort I managed to track down what is required and it is not a crimp connector tool. The FSM uses aluminum A/C compression fittings that you have to buy separately. Refer to this post for OEM and aftermarket part numbers >> Rear Auxiliary HVAC hoses (A/C & Coolant) Replacement
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