mstewart39

I bought my 2011 Suburban 15 months ago. It had 136k miles on it, but I thought I got a good deal. It was on the low end of KBB's recommended price. I even took it to an outside garage before buying it to get a second opinion.

Since buying it I had to replace the battery (no big deal), park assist sensors (they still give me an error message even though they work), Left front wheel hub, sway bar linkages, and radiator. The driver's side 2nd row seat won't fold up because the latch is seized. The dealership estimated about $800 for that. The rear window buttons will only take the windows down, not back up. (Luckily I can do that from the front.) I don't even know what the issue is there. And the radio makes a high pitched noise a lot of the time.

Now my AC won't work, and I found out that I have a rupture in the rear AC line. A couple of garages claim they can't do the work because it takes a special crimp tool that costs over $1300. The dealership has quoted me $1,200 to fix the issue.

I love having this large of a vehicle, but I'm pretty much tired of putting money into it!!! I've already put nearly $3,000 into repairs in 15 months. I get the Stabilitrak / Traction Control error message every once in a while too.

Should I chalk this one up to a lemon and move on? (It's going to be hard going back to my Ford Escape for family vacations, but this is getting ridiculous!!!) I know I won't be able to get what I paid for it, so I'll lose money AND the cost of the repairs I've done.

Any advice? Words of encouragement?

Silverfox103

I would not throw in the towel so quick. You've had no problems with the engine, transmission or rear end. You bought a used car with 136K, things happen. You need to stop running to the dealer and fix things yourself. Ask here or go on YouTube.

Tom

SabrToothSqrl

I learned to fix it myself at 16... once my covered in mud wrangler's warranty ran out... It's honestly awesome. I did it long ago before the internet/youtube. Now you can google "GM TPS replacement 2009 tahoe" and get articles and videos, etc.

If you want to purchase a used vehicle to save money, your best bet is self repair. If that's not feasible, you could look at commonly more reliable brands (honda, toyota, etc). I'm not saying they are more reliable, just that's the perception.

Alternatively, Certified Pre Owned (fancy used) cars, usually offer warranties built-in at point of sale.

I wouldn't give up yet. I bought a boat that I thought I was getting a good deal on, that needed a LOT of repairs. Over the winter I learned more about the Bravo One and Merc 350 than I knew was possible... and had to break out the wallet for a lot of parts... (no labor!)... anyway, I wanted to give up and light the damn thing on fire, or sink it...

now, I'm glad I didn't. I have 95% of the issues fixed, and am looking forward to a good summer.

$3k in repairs... I spent over $25k in just gasoline... stupid cars. lol.

intheburbs

Sorry about your troubles. I bought my 2008 Suburban in 2013 with 106k miles on the clock. I tow a lot of heavy stuff with it (up to 8600 lbs), beat the crap out of it, and drive it like I stole it. It now has 179k miles, and my sum total of repairs (not counting fluid changes or new tires)? $23 for a purge valve solenoid. Haven't even had to do a brake job yet. Oh, and I just spent $12.87 on a new passenger side interior door handle, because the OEM handle decided to do its best impression of a razor blade.

tech2

finacially, just stay with it. Whenever you buy a used suv of that age expect to put repairs into it up front. Its common, especially if its a private sale. big 4x4 trucks required more maintance and repair that small 2wd vehicles. If you don't do your own repairs; budget $1200 a year for this over its lifetime. if your towing with this truck; follow the severe usage maintenace scedule.

mstewart39

Okay, I feel a little better I guess...but it's still frustrating.
I half want to figure out how to do this on my own, but 2 garages have now looked at it and don't know how to fix this. The line is an aluminum line that I guess needs to be crimped in the center, and neither have this specialized tool to crimp it. The dealership is the only one who supposedly has this tool.
The line part # is 19257317. Anyone ever install one of these? Is there any way to install it without the magic tool?

tech2

not sure what they quoted for. If the repair is just cutting out a small section of pipe and crimping in a small new piece; No way a crimp should cost $1200. If they are replacing an entire line, its quite involved and takes time.

Shop around imo. Usually, rear ac leaks are pinhole type leaks that can be section repaired. Some dealerships may want to replace the entire line especially if they do not have the crimping tool...its not an essential dealer tool...its aftermarket.

other options are to cap off the rear lines. You will still have front a.c but the rear will be a/c will be disabled...you will still have rear heat. ebay and amazon sell fittings that bolt into the connections where the rear ac lines start. this is diy also....you will need someone to charge the system. i do not recommend the diy ac charging kits...they are not accurate imo.

mstewart39

They were replacing the full line. The one garage quoted me a price, but then got the part in and said he can't crimp it. I saw it sitting there in his garage. It looked as if it's split into 2 pieces so it can be fished from the front & back and then crimped in the center. He said that crimp is what he can't do.

I thought seriously about the plug option, but the wife didn't like the idea of having the kids complaining on long trips in the summer. I guess I reluctantly agree with her...

The full line actually comes with both AC and heater lines in the package. So I'm paying for more parts than I'd actually need. I almost want them to replace both in case this same issue happens with the heater lines. Is that dumb? I figure if I already have to pay about $400 for the full set, why not install them all while they have it up? I'd be extremely annoyed if I'm doing the same thing in the fall because my heater line is leaking.

They did a die test of the AC line and they described it as "ruptured".

tech2

ruptured or exploded, a bad line can be sectioned in regardless of the size of the leak.
if they are replacing all that then yeah, it will cost a lot. If it was a warranty job, i would want all that done. If it was customer pay, I would want to repair just the bad section for $300. All depends where you go and what equipment they have as to how the repair is done.

make sure the new line is protected from road debris. typically, this damage is either from corrosion or throw off from the front tires.

TWard

A/C- My rear AC was shot. Abandoned the rear AC, plugged the system/recharged for $100.

Rear windows- Pull the switches and clean. You'll find a video on youtube.



Also replaced both headlights ($170 both sides with bulbs), replaced shocks on an air-ride system (all 4 corners) ($800), put in a new fuel pump ($400), a new air-ride compressor ($225), new sway bar links, new brakes/rotors ($700) and a new battery ($130). All much less expensive that buying a new (or new to me) vehicle or eating $20-25k in depreciation on a new vehicle.