How was the gap on the old plugs?

 

Under .04

 

I assume you did not notice any difference in 4 of the plugs considering the cylinder shutoff feature?

 

Don't remember what the new gap setting is but looks like yours could have gone another 100K.

FWIW the AFM kills 1, 4, 6, & 7.

Did you notice if there was any evidence of anti-seize on the original plug threads?

 

I noticed in the procedure post I posted it did not list using the anti-seize...
the only listing I found for it being used in the manual was for the O2 sensors...
personally, I would still use it but as you recommended sparingly ensuring its on the threads only...

 

The burb was chuttering some when I would excelerate by lightly stepping on the gas as I was driving. The New plugs or wires seem to have eliminated that.
Did not notice if there was any anti seize on the old plgs but there was some white looked like grease inside the wires..

 

If you have cast iron heads using anti seize is not as important, but when you have aluminum heads and a steel spark plug it is advisable to use the anti-seize as the dissimilar metals can cold weld themselves, causing galling to the aluminum threads in the heads, resulting in expensive repairs...
Maybe MDTAHOE can put his professional 2¢ in on the use of anti-sieze.....

 

While I agree that cast iron heads aren't as big a concern when we used to change plugs every 5K to 10K miles, 100K change interval might still be a problem. But aluminum is definitely a concern.

Of course the big concern w/ anti-seize is getting it near the business end of the plug.

 

In the shop we never put Anti Seize on any spark plugs. We do put it on oxygen sensors. I have never seen Anti Seize on any OE spark plugs,not even on the Hgh End cars.

 

That's why they make heli-coils.