Jennifer Rae Fuchek

Had brake grinding sound when braking along with a noise while driving slowly (without braking) that changed with vehicle speed. I assumed brakes were needing replacement.
Took to reputable shop the next day (yesterday) for free brake check.
I was expecting a few hundred dollars for pads & rotors on all 4 wheels. Bought used around Thanksgiving 2018 so I figured brakes needed to be replaced anyway.
Sharing here to get opinions & see if anyone else has dealt with this.....

My invoice for brake service

Diagnosis and total I paid:
Booster was full of fluid, calipers dragging, and engine was sucking brake fluid through vacuum system. Supposedly I was feeling it dragging (I wasn't) and I was experiencing other signs of this issue (nope). He had the tech lower my 'Burb & stick a long zip tie into the booster vacuum port and it was wet when he removed it. Yes there was fluid in there... I saw it.
He said the previous owner kept topping it off instead of finding the source of the leak.
Total cost: 2227.21 😭😱🤬
The shop guy said his vehicle (Tahoe out in the lot) has gone through 3 boosters and master cylinders in 3 years and this is an "extremely common problem" with these vehicles.
Attached is copy of my invoice. I'm still in shock.
To get the bare minimum would've been 1800$... what's another 400$ for all of it.

Irish_alley

surprised they didnt change your brake hoses/rotors also. but how did a free check turn into over 2k in repairs? i wouldnt take it back to them as it sounds like they just took you to the ringers. i would think if your engine was sucking brake fluid you would of noticed something else like a cel and you would of also noticed the brake fluid reservoir needing fluid if the hose was still wet the leak should be constant enough that after 4 months you should of had to add fluid.

Jennifer Rae Fuchek

I remember adding a TINY BIT of brake fluid ONCE. It was such a small amount.
However large the leak it couldn't have been too big for me to only add fluid once (just to get to the full cold line).
The brake check turning to 2k in repairs was because they said the booster was shot... if it was not replaced they couldn't guarantee any of the work and I'm wasting money because the pads/calipers would drag again soon.
I swear there were NO symptoms though! NONE.
Edit: I did get new rotors front and rear, new ceramic OEM premium pads front & rear, new calipers front & rear along with new booster and master cylinder. I too thought "well dang they should've given me new flex hoses or at least a brake flush"

Cusser

Jennifer Rae - don't take your vehicle to a chain shop or a dealer. You'll get better and more honest service at a local SAE independent mechanic shop. Check with your friends, look up local reviews, etc. Here in Phoenix the radio show ASE master mechanic has a list of his Best Shops, has very strict guidelines for those. You'll get better service at an independent shop too, you'll deal with the owner typically, who likely is also ASE certified.
Anyway, that shop likely did a great upsell on you, got every last dollar out of you. Maybe you needed it all, maybe not; unless you trust a shop or are there to visually see the master cylinder leakage and its leaking into the power booster, one doesn't know.
Some shops will especially target women for upsells, but even most guys don't know much about vehicles either these days. OK to take it there for free estimate but with estimate that high ABSOLUTELY get a 2nd opinion.,


I don't know if this is true or not; wonder why the "shop guy" didn't try different brands after first replacement leaked !!! Just checked Autozone, see both booster and master cylinder retail for under $200 each, but shop has the right to mark up parts.
Caliper has to practically be removed to install new pads anyway, you got charged for labor to install the calipers AND to install the pads.
Master cylinder has to be removed to install a new booster, labor for the booster should INCLUDE master cylinder R&R.
Hmmm- one should see fluid in the booster once master cylinder is removed, not familiar with their way of checking...

Mrs. Cusser has a 2005 GMC Yukon 1500 with 200K miles, ours since 2010 (purchased with 100K on it). In 2012 it had a leaky booster (hydramatic booster) but leaked externally, so master cylinder was not affected. My local shop ASE mechanic looked at this, said it was my choice whether to check fluid every two months or try a repair. That's been leak free for 7 years after a repair.

A couple of years ago Mrs. Cusser did not hear the wear indicator chirpers, which eventually caused grinding noise which I heard, not her. I did that repair myself (got rotor reground, and new brake pads). Other than that, brake pad replacement (without new rotors) has been done by me. So maybe shop guy is just unlucky with his "3 boosters and master cylinders in 3 years" but I sure don't read this on Internet as an "extremely common problem". Mrs. Cusser tows a horse trailer with her Yukon, continually reports that the Yukon's brakes are "great".

oldchevy

The place is called Budget Brakes? It should be called Rip Off Brakes.

Jennifer Rae Fuchek

I agree

I thought it was mighty odd to charge to install brakes and calipers when the caliper had to be removed for brakes to be changed (which I expected a brake job)...
And charged for hardware when pads COME with hardware (it even says pads with hardware!). i think they jacked it up everywhere possible.... 300 for a booster??
My husband was with me but hes not knowledgable about vehicles (I'm fairly smart with them... hes more with the guns and knives and stuff... I'm computers, vehicles, and "how does that work").

I've already put in a call to the "higher ups" as I felt this was ridiculous.

Edit: almost forgot... they didnt ask if I wanted old parts back or anything. It says I wished them to be discarded but I NEVER said that... if anything I wanted to see them myself beforehand. I didnt sign anything stating to discard them nor anything else.
I think quite a few things wrong with the entire scenario.

Jennifer Rae Fuchek

As I look under the rear of the suburban I'm seeing something I never saw before... can anyone identify this?
Rear of vehicle to right side of spare tire.
I regularly look under my 'burb and I've NEVER seen this. I noticed it when it was on the lift getting serviced (when I was being savagely torn a new one via my wallet). Looked today and it's still sitting there resting on my muffler.
It obviously doesnt belong there. I have no idea where it goes though!
🤷


Silver-colored bracket looking thing... under rear of Suburban to right side of the spare tire and resting on muffler

Cusser

Yes, I feel that you may have been double-charged for some labor and for some parts. See what corporate says about that, and that they didn't give you the used parts or even ask you.

Maybe only the fronts or only the rears really needed replacing (we don't know because you didn't receive the old parts). I do brakes myself, and only replace or get rotors/drums reground if there have been issues or grooves/wear on them. And pads do "drag" a little on the rotors by design. If one doesn't tow, typical is for rears to last 2 to 2.5 times as long as fronts do, fronts do most of the braking.

73shark

It sort of looks like a cup holder that the wheel picked up from the road and it got captured there.

sfcjones

I have had 7 GM trucks and suv since 2001 and not once have I had to replace a booster. These guys ripped you off and I would take them to court.