I agree. It looks like the ball joints are torqued to a specified amount to the steering knuckle and to the control arm but I didn't think there was any way to tighten or loosen the joint itself either. I'm assuming they'll adjust caster as part of the alignment.

 

After looking at the Energy catalog, it looks like you have the correct part number (3.3180) for the control arm bushings. They also have a complete bushing kit, if you plan on upgrading additional bushings in the future. Please note that the hardware from the upper control arms needs to be reused with control arm kit.

The upper control arm bushings are the smaller ones and the lower are the larger one. If you install them, yourself, make sure that you use lots of grease on the bushings.

It is a big job to remove and install the new bushings. You may want to consider having a machine shop press the old bushings out and the ones in.

I have listed below a couple of links that will provide you with additional background on control arm bushing replacement.

Control Arm Bushings - Step By Step - Keep It Tight - Chevy High Performance Magazine
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...sion/17019.pdf

I hope you get everything working well soon.

 

Shouldn't there be another metal sleeve in the kit that gets pressed into the control arm which then houses the red bushing that holds the smaller metal sleeve that the bolt then goes through to hold it to the frame and allows it to pivot? In the research I've done, it looks like that would be the hard part to get out and press the new one back in but I'm not seeing that outer metal sleeve in the kit. Sorry for all the questions. I just want to make sure I get all the parts at once to do the complete job! Thanks!

 

Questions are good. It is best to ask as many as you can, prior to getting started. This way, you are not stuck in the driveway after hours without the parts you need. Energy notes that some of the hardware needs to be reused. That being said, you may have to look at purchasing new hardware for the parts that need to be reused.

It may be best to call Energy and discuss your project. They would be happy to help. They are located in California. Toll Free (888) 913-6374

Good luck with your project.

 

When I've done control arms, bushings, ball joints, and all kinds of other parts for Chevy trucks in the past I've had extremely good parts and service from www.summitracing.com The prices were comparable to other brands, occasionally a little less expensive, but the quality has always been great.

 

Thanks for the advice. I called Energy Suspension and they plan on the customer using the existing outer metal sleeve. I got them installed along with another reman steering box. Not having to replace the outer sleeve made the job go fairly quickly. I just dropped it off this evening at the mechanic for them to check out in the morning. It still drove chappy over there so we'll see if they can do the alignment and what effect it has.
I checked out summit racing and they sell energy suspension products. Thanks for the reference!

 

I got it back from the shop and I don't see much of a change. The steering wheel is straight again, so that's good. The mechanic said the steering box still has a very small amount of play in it, but he would not do anything about it. I told him I tracked a new one down at the dealer and he said the amount of play that's in there is not a big deal and "it's a Chevy." Ouch!
Anyway, I drove it for a while for a day or two just trying to observe the nagging symptoms that bug me. I think the tightness is having more of a bad effect than anything else. The alignment is done. He gave me the before and after measurements and everything is in the acceptable range now. I mentioned before that the car doesn't return to a straight track after a turn. It needs some help from the driver to fully recover from the turn. When going straight, any small correction that's needed to maintain a straight track, "sticks." In other words, if I correct to the right slightly, that input stays if I take my hands off the wheel. Most cars would take the right input, but then naturally return to neutral straight driving. The mechanic picked up on this again and wasn't sure what the cause because he didn't look into it at all (he knows I'm a DIYer) but he suspects the ball joints. The guy I brought the Burb from said he replaced the ball joints, but after closer examination of the receipts he gave me, it looks like he may have kept the uppers and returned the lowers. Maybe it looked like too tough of a job given that the lowers have to be pressed in and the uppers could just have the rivets drilled out and be replaced with bolts?? When I was doing the control arm bushing job I took note of the fact that the lower ***** moved pretty freely but with no play that I could detect. I also jacked the car up(with everything assembled again) to take the weight off the wheels and turned the tires with my hand and everything seemed to move freely. I then disconnected the tie rod from the steering knuckle and turned the wheel and there was no binding of any kind and the wheel steers freely. My only theory now is that being that the lower ball joints take a majority of the weight of the front of the vehicle, maybe when the weight is applied, the joints bind up somehow and cause the tightness. Has anyone ever experienced this or have any other ideas where this tightness is coming from? For those just joining this thread, I've been led to believe that the upper ball joints and tie rod ends were already replaced when I bought the vehicle. I've personally replaced the steering box, upper and lower control arm bushings and idle arm bracket. One last note; the mechanic said that if they are new ball joints, I may just need to drive the vehicle a while and they may loosen up a bit. I also noticed from looking at the receipts that the car has only been driven about 100 miles in the last 9 months before I bought it. Thanks for any ideas!

 

I replaced the upper and lower ball joints to eliminate any possibility of them not being new in case I was lied to by the seller. The steering is STILL stiff with a little play. I am now suspecting the reman steering box I got from NAPA. I know some have mentioned summit racing. Any other ideas on where to get a QUALITY steering box? I guess Chevy is also an option.