rv-guy

My sway bar bolt sheared off and I bought a replacement from Napa. I have the new bolt and bushings in place, but I can't the nut to reach and grab on to the threads so I can tighten things up and call it a day.

I'm going to try using a pry bar to tighten up the spread, but if there's a better suggestion, I'd appreciate the tip. Thanks!

tech2

that 's the ticket

KChevy75

I have to assume you have the wheel removed and the vehicle was jacked up by the frame somewhere and supported by a jack stand. If so, just place a jack under the lower control arm and jack it up a little but not enough to lift it off the jack stand.

rv-guy

Thanks for the great suggestion KChevy75! The truck is on a stand and the wheel is removed. I was going to give up for the night, but read your post and was excited to try it, so I went back to the driveway. I jacked up the lower control arm, but nothing seemed to budge. I was careful, and jacked it up some more, but still nothing. When I released the jack, I could see that I had jacked it up maybe about 1 inch. Should I have jacked it more?

I'm attaching some pictures to show my situation. The sway bar bolt is at an angle, and I think that's my problem. The grommets/bushings aren't seated as far as they need to be, is my guess. A pic is worth a thousand words, so I hope these help. Am I right that the bolt should be straight up and down, or is it OK that mine appears to be leaning. The original bolt sheared off several days ago so I'd have to remove the other wheel to see what it looks like. I've only driven it about 5 miles in it's current state. But I wonder if that caused things to become misaligned. Thanks again!

oldchevy

Your sway bar looks like it moved a bit to one side. Move it over a little so that the hole in the sway bar is directly over the hole in the lower control arm. I had that problem on a Blazer and moving the sway bar worked.

rv-guy

Thanks OldChevy! That makes sense. Is this next question easier asked than done---how should I do that? I tried tugging on it, then used a black pipe I use for a cheater bar as leverage, but couldn't get it to budge in either case.

The person at the parts counter told me I should reassemble with the wheel attached and on the ground. So, I tried that last night, but it didn't help in my situation. So, removed the wheel again and it's back on a jack stand.

I was tempted to loosen the bushing clamp to get some more play, but I'm a noob, and I was afraid if those bolts were rusty and crusty I might snap off the head...or maybe I'd loosen it and not be able to get the sway bar back in position properly. I'm a first-timer here, so let me know if those fears aren't justified. That's why I'm *so grateful* for this forum!! I couldn't do any of this stuff if I couldn't ask others for help : )

rv-guy

This might be a dumb question...but would I be able to move that sway bar more easily if both sides were under jack stands?

I just watched a 1A Auto video and the tech was able to move the sway bar up and down easily with a 2 ft pry bar. Mine is only 1 ft...so I'm not sure if that would make all the difference. But in his case, the car is on a shop lift...so I thought if I took the weight off of the other wheel, I might be able to get the sway bar to move more freely.

Thanks : )

oldchevy

I used a big hammer and a pry bar and it move. It didn't have to move that far.

73shark

Seems like if you put the jack under the head of the bolt and raised it up, that would allow the nut to be started.

tech2

yes...whenever one control arm is lower than the other....it tensions the bar....that is how it works to counteract body sway....controls arms at same height...no tension.