Tires for 09 suburban
I've recent purchased an 09 suburban and it came stock with 20" Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza tires. The rear tires were replaced with the same tire prior to purchase and the 2 front tires are going to be due for replacement soon.. (Tire size is P275/55 R20)
In having purchased tires for 2 previous GM trucks (i've owned a 2004 GMC Yukon and 2005 GMC Yukon XL) i've had great experience owning a set of Goodyear Tripletred assurance 17" tires for the 05 Yukon and Fortera 16" tires for the 04 Yukon.
There isnt a fortera or a tripletred assurance tire that comes in a 20" size for the suburban .. Since there are a ton of options, Ive narrowed it down to the stock Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza, the goodyear Eagle LS-2 or michelen.
I'm located in South Carolina so we do not get any snow or ice. Mostly looking for comfort and a quiet ride and good treadwear. Driving is mostly city and hwy.
i've checked out the reviews on tirerack.com and other tire sites when doing a google search. But i'd also like to get some feedback on here as well who own either an 09 suburban or something equivilent
any thoughts or recommendations would be greatly appreciated ..
thanks
In having purchased tires for 2 previous GM trucks (i've owned a 2004 GMC Yukon and 2005 GMC Yukon XL) i've had great experience owning a set of Goodyear Tripletred assurance 17" tires for the 05 Yukon and Fortera 16" tires for the 04 Yukon.
There isnt a fortera or a tripletred assurance tire that comes in a 20" size for the suburban .. Since there are a ton of options, Ive narrowed it down to the stock Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza, the goodyear Eagle LS-2 or michelen.
I'm located in South Carolina so we do not get any snow or ice. Mostly looking for comfort and a quiet ride and good treadwear. Driving is mostly city and hwy.
i've checked out the reviews on tirerack.com and other tire sites when doing a google search. But i'd also like to get some feedback on here as well who own either an 09 suburban or something equivilent
any thoughts or recommendations would be greatly appreciated ..
thanks
I have MICHELIN MX 2s on my Tahoe with 20's. Close to 20,000 miles and still look brand new. Of course I am partial.( I retired from Michelin) I run about 38 psi in them so they are a little hard but I'd rather have that then having to replace them too quickly.
I highly recommend that you use the same Mfg/size/type Tire on all four wheels of your ride. Though it seems to be ok, different type tires even made by the same Mfg, will be designed and "built" differently than another type. This could effect the handling and may cause you problems.
We just bought a 2009 LTZ that still has the factory Bridgstone tires, 28000 miles. As soon as these wear or get bubbles in the side wall. They will be replaced with something other than Bridgestone/Firestone. My family just has not had good luck with those through the years.
We had the Michelins on our 2005 Suburban and an Escape, those are a great tire, will probably get those or try some Hankooks. We have had excellent luck with the Hankooks on our old Malubu and my Cobalt. I was going through a set of tires every year (32000 miles) until I got the Hankooks, it has been 1.5 years and they look to be about 70% life left.
We had the Michelins on our 2005 Suburban and an Escape, those are a great tire, will probably get those or try some Hankooks. We have had excellent luck with the Hankooks on our old Malubu and my Cobalt. I was going through a set of tires every year (32000 miles) until I got the Hankooks, it has been 1.5 years and they look to be about 70% life left.
Sorry to hear that you've not had good service from the Bridgestone/Firestone group. I would suggest that those results may and often do occur with the type of tire chosen. Michelin is a great tire, but even they have those which aren't very expensive and may not provide the service which Michelin is known for.
So often we blame low mileage on types of tires whose emphasis is on a more special tread design for an application. Frequently high mileage tires are somewhat lacking in their Traction ability because of the Shore Hardness of the compounds used. Tires which perform well under wet conditions, or those designed for OTR, similarly don't provide the life expected because of their Tread design.
Simply, there are tradeoffs, and one must choose carefully, if he expects the best performance for his expectations.
So often we blame low mileage on types of tires whose emphasis is on a more special tread design for an application. Frequently high mileage tires are somewhat lacking in their Traction ability because of the Shore Hardness of the compounds used. Tires which perform well under wet conditions, or those designed for OTR, similarly don't provide the life expected because of their Tread design.
Simply, there are tradeoffs, and one must choose carefully, if he expects the best performance for his expectations.
I am not saying Firestone/Bridgestones are bad tires, all I am saying is that I have not had good luck with them. It all goes back to the late 80's early 90's and since the "Ford Exploder" issues they may have stepped it up quite a bit. But I have had several cars that came with Firestone/Bridgestones I don't believe I ever wore one of those tires out they would get bubbles in the side walls so I would just replace them with another brand tire. Three ford rangers and one nissan maxima all had sidewall issues. I just don't buy their stuff any more.
I understand that different tires from the same company will be different. My experiances have been; Nittos have been good to me both car and truck. BFG's have not (Great tire they wear too easy both car and truck) Yokahamas on my F250 were great but yoks on the malibu were not as good as the Hankooks. Michelin's have been great, never had any issue with a Michelin. Goodyears have been good to me too. Hankooks all have been good but they are the same tire model just different sizes, But they have been good enough that I will give them a chance on the suburban.
The off brands like Braaus, Remmington, etc... those have not been so good, all the ones I have used (on my Cobalt) have the same problems with the belts seperating and such. These are all 70,000 mile tires and they would only last about 25,000. I will never use those types again.
I understand that different tires from the same company will be different. My experiances have been; Nittos have been good to me both car and truck. BFG's have not (Great tire they wear too easy both car and truck) Yokahamas on my F250 were great but yoks on the malibu were not as good as the Hankooks. Michelin's have been great, never had any issue with a Michelin. Goodyears have been good to me too. Hankooks all have been good but they are the same tire model just different sizes, But they have been good enough that I will give them a chance on the suburban.
The off brands like Braaus, Remmington, etc... those have not been so good, all the ones I have used (on my Cobalt) have the same problems with the belts seperating and such. These are all 70,000 mile tires and they would only last about 25,000. I will never use those types again.
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Thank you for the info ..
I've made an appointment for tomorrow (Friday) to get 2 replacement Bridgestone Dueler Alenza tires for the suburban. I priced the Michelin tires and they are a bit pricy. Since I'm new to the bridgestone world, i'm going to give those a shot this time around. Next time i'm in the market for tires I may decide on the micheln MX/2... (Front tires need to be replaced) the rear tires are 2 1/2 weeks old as they were brand new when i picked up the truck.
Do you think it would be necessary to move the rear tires to the front and put the 2 new tires on the rear of the truck? Since I've only had the truck for 2 1/2 weeks I wanted to start fresh when it comes to rotating the tires so I'm thinking by putting the 2 existing rear tires up front and the new ones in the back may kinda balance all that out ... maybe its not even worth doing at all but thought i'd get some feedback ..
I've made an appointment for tomorrow (Friday) to get 2 replacement Bridgestone Dueler Alenza tires for the suburban. I priced the Michelin tires and they are a bit pricy. Since I'm new to the bridgestone world, i'm going to give those a shot this time around. Next time i'm in the market for tires I may decide on the micheln MX/2... (Front tires need to be replaced) the rear tires are 2 1/2 weeks old as they were brand new when i picked up the truck.
Do you think it would be necessary to move the rear tires to the front and put the 2 new tires on the rear of the truck? Since I've only had the truck for 2 1/2 weeks I wanted to start fresh when it comes to rotating the tires so I'm thinking by putting the 2 existing rear tires up front and the new ones in the back may kinda balance all that out ... maybe its not even worth doing at all but thought i'd get some feedback ..
2.5 weeks is hardly anything for those rears, they're NEW ! 
Go ahead and put the next two on the Front, I always do when I'm replacing a half set.
Those H/L's have a really good tread pattern for Street/HiWay.
Smooth quiet ride, run cool, great on Ice, and have decent Wet Traction.
Keep in mind, that all new Tires need a Break In Period...
What you should do is, air them (all 4) up to the Maximum Cold Inflation Pressure (should be 44 PSI), and run them that way for 400-500 miles. This stabilizes the Tire in several ways, and promotes it's durability for the life of the Tire.
The Maximum Cold Inflation Pressure for any Tire made for use in the USA is stamped on the Sidewall of each Tire, and is the Manufacturers guarantee that the Tires can be run at that pressure for their life.
Beyond the Break In Period...
I strongly urge you to keep higher pressure in them. The rule of thumb is within 10% of the Maximum Cold Inflation Pressure. In the case of the H/L's, that would be 40-42 PSI. This higher pressure, permits greater stability when cornering and breaking, reduces stress/damage of the Sidewall by Road Hazards and over flexing, reduces heat generated by the Tire's internal components and will contribute to a longer Tread Life. These benefits are well worth it, at the cost of a slightly firmer ride.
Good Luck..and by the way...
Welcome to the Forum

Go ahead and put the next two on the Front, I always do when I'm replacing a half set.
Those H/L's have a really good tread pattern for Street/HiWay.
Smooth quiet ride, run cool, great on Ice, and have decent Wet Traction.
Keep in mind, that all new Tires need a Break In Period...
What you should do is, air them (all 4) up to the Maximum Cold Inflation Pressure (should be 44 PSI), and run them that way for 400-500 miles. This stabilizes the Tire in several ways, and promotes it's durability for the life of the Tire.
The Maximum Cold Inflation Pressure for any Tire made for use in the USA is stamped on the Sidewall of each Tire, and is the Manufacturers guarantee that the Tires can be run at that pressure for their life.
Beyond the Break In Period...
I strongly urge you to keep higher pressure in them. The rule of thumb is within 10% of the Maximum Cold Inflation Pressure. In the case of the H/L's, that would be 40-42 PSI. This higher pressure, permits greater stability when cornering and breaking, reduces stress/damage of the Sidewall by Road Hazards and over flexing, reduces heat generated by the Tire's internal components and will contribute to a longer Tread Life. These benefits are well worth it, at the cost of a slightly firmer ride.
Good Luck..and by the way...
Welcome to the Forum
Last edited by SWHouston; Jun 6, 2013 at 3:15 PM.
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