ponting912

nice discussion... i like the way people are participating in the discussion and as i am new in here so i was wondering how people are co-operative with each other. I hope i will get great help over here.. nice platform.

Snowman53

This is a useful thread. We tow a 5,500 lb TT with an '01 Suburban 1500 using a Reese Dual Cam hitch (K&N cold air, Jet Chip, and Magnaflow duals cat-back). We have pulled it over 5,000 miles in the last year on trips from MN to PA, CO, and MI. It pulls great in tow/haul configuration, 3rd gear, and maximum use of cruise control. Speed at 60 - 70 mph. I would offer similar advice as others. Make sure the lash-up is level and configured correctly and try to maximize your margin. In my experience 8,000 lbs is a bit steep for a 1500 but you may be o.k. It is just that your margin is thin. If we move to a bigger TT (and we may due to a growing family) I will strongly consider a 2500. Trouble is I really like the old bus (ordered it new and it was built in WI) and take some pleasure in watching the miles accumulate (192k at last look) with no major issues. Besides I haven't made a payment on it for a LONG time. All good.

jeffsw6

I'm using my 97 Ram 2500 V10 a lot more often for towing than the Suburban these days. The Ram isn't even in great condition -- it has a pretty big exhaust leak, a vacuum issue of some kind, could use fuel injectors, and it sucks down fuel. However, I can put a ridiculous amount of tongue weight on it without it feeling sloppy.

When I buy my next Suburban I will also be shopping for a 3/4 ton model. One thing you should know, though, is the ride is not nearly as nice and smooth as the 1/2 ton. The rear suspension is much more stiff. So there is a trade-off which you might not like for daily driving.

SWHouston

Yea, feeling that stiffness when you increase the load capacity of a Spring can be diminished, IF you know a good Spring Shop. Stacking, selecting and separating the leaves with/without Lubricated Material is an ART! Someone who knows what he's doing, can make that increase in capacity very transparent. Competent assembly with Shocks that can be adjusted to changing loads, can make your 3/4 ride like a Cadillac, with or without a load.

matthug912

great discussion and i like this forum very much because i am impressed to see how people are participating in every thread by giving very use full information.

Davidtraxler05

The 12k hitch means nothing. The truck is rated for 8400. It's like putting 12 #'s of crap in a big 8 # bag.

You've got 8000 pounds with a vehicle that will pull 8400. Plus factor in the weight of people and supplies and your legally overweight.

Your best option is adding a "Anti - Sway" leveling hitch onto the camper. That will do several things.

1. Even the load
2. Take pressure off the vehicle
3. Keep the camper from swaying.
4. Keep the front end of you truck DOWN.
5. Keep the camper level

Costs $750

Use premium gas with octane booster to keep the truck in 3rd and 4th gear.

LASTLY - giver the gas!

I pulled 6000 pounds with a rodeo rated at 5000 all the way to northern Canada and back twice. Very steep mountains. Giver the gas going down - take it easy going up.

SWHouston

I don't disagree with anything you've said, but...

the OP/others need to keep in mind, that one shouldn't install/buy a weak link. I can GTW at 8100 lbs, and I always buy any connection component at, or greater than 10K lbs.

So, the 12K may be superfluous, but, don't think it's wrong.

Snowman53

My 2001 4X4 with a 3.73 rear end, dual exhausts, K&N cold kit, and jet chip pulls our 6,500 lb travel trailer just fine. I use 3rd gear and keep it under 70 mph. I have towed the trailer almost 10,000 miles in three years. The only time I wished for more squirt was this fall towing into a 35 - 40 mph headwind on I-35. We made it, but mileage dropped to 7 mpg. As for towing an 8,000 lb trailer, in my view you are pushing it. My truck with the 3.73 rear end is rated at 7,700 lbs towing capacity. Knowing how the 6,500 lb. trailer pulls, 8,000 seems like a lot, and it would exceed the capacity of my truck. I should add that my truck has 213k on it, but it seems to make as much power as it ever did. Good luck!

SWHouston

Sounds like you got a great ride there

But yes, prudence is advised if you don't have any direct GTW info via your VIN/build. Most dealers will tell you can go up to 7000 lbs for just about any Hoe/Burb. You got to keep in mind, that flat/toy/box trailers put about 10% of their total weight on the tongue, and Travel Trailers regularly have 15%. And I'd definitely suggest that one load his Trailer and do a dry run to a weight station to get an accurate number.

So...
Try to get exact info on your ride. (special equipment may/should give you additional capacity)
If you can't, then remember that 1500's are rated at 1000 lbs, and 2500's are rated at 1500 lbs. (that's hitch load, cargo and passengers).

intheburbs

My 2001 did not pull our 6500-lb travel trailer just fine. Blew two rear ends, both while on vacation. Hence the upgrade to the 08 2500.

Gross trailer weight is a meaningless number. You'll exceed your GVWR or RAWR long before you get anywhere near your max trailer rating.

A half-ton Burb has a payload rating of about 1500 lbs. Add yourself, passengers, gear, and the weight of your hitch and subtract that from the 1500. That's what's available for your tongue weight. Never mind the fact that the weak link in the powertrain is the semifloater rear.

Typical tongue weight for a TT is 13%, so a 6500-lb trailer is going to have 800-900 lbs of tongue weight. That leaves 600-700 lbs for people and gear. Good luck if you have a large family. My family of 5 weighs ~900 lbs.