Tahoe & Suburban The power, space, and brutal towing ability make the Tahoe and its longer sibling, the Suburban, arguably the best full size SUV's on the market today.

2013 Chevrolet Suburban
Platform: GMT 400, 800, 900

Towing

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Old March 6th, 2018, 12:32 PM
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I'm looking at new camper to go behind my 2003 Suburban 1500 (5.3 3.73) The camper is 5200 lb. dry and 28' box. I would be using an equalizer wd and sway hitch.

What's everyone's thoughts.
Thanks
Old March 6th, 2018, 7:17 PM
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That's a lot of trailer, but you should be fine. I towed much heavier with my '01 Suburban, as heavy as 7000 lbs., all over the country including the Rockies.

Make sure you head over to CAT scales once you're loaded up for a trip, to make sure you're properly loaded/balanced, and not overweight.

Keep an eye on the temperature of the rear axle - that's the weak point. I'd even suggest one of those infrared laser thermometers for $20, to check it whenever you pull over on long trips.
Old March 8th, 2018, 6:39 PM
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make sure the trailer is balanced out, and if it had trailer brakes that would be a big help. Should be fine.
Old March 8th, 2018, 10:56 PM
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>Keep an eye on the temperature of the rear axle - that's the weak point. I'd even suggest one of those infrared laser thermometers for $20, to check it whenever you pull over on long trips. <
This is a interesting comment, what do some of you get for temp readings for normal and heavy towing ? Thanks. *BW*
Old March 8th, 2018, 11:47 PM
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I didn't have the infrared thermometer when I had my '01 Burb. My method was simple (and some might say stupid) - Whenever I stopped, I crawled underneath and felt the rear axle with my hand. If I could hold my hand on it for a few seconds, it wasn't too hot.

I had a catastrophic failure of the rear axle while towing across South Dakota in the middle of summer. Axle overheated and cooked off all the axle fluid. I was able to limp off the highway with the awful sound of metal grinding on metal. The front of the trailer was covered in a fine film of burned 75W90. I was overloading the rear axle on that trip, and since we had no choice but to continue driving, we drove at night, at a slower pace, to keep the heat down on the new rear axle.
Old March 9th, 2018, 7:04 AM
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Originally Posted by intheburbs
I didn't have the infrared thermometer when I had my '01 Burb. My method was simple (and some might say stupid) - Whenever I stopped, I crawled underneath and felt the rear axle with my hand. If I could hold my hand on it for a few seconds, it wasn't too hot.
That is a good point, what is too hot? What is normal op temp? I guess the best thing to do is baseline the diff temp after a few drives pulling nothing...
Old March 13th, 2018, 6:40 PM
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Have the diff fluid changed and put in flull synthetic fluid. It will help lower the temp. More importantly make sure you have an auxiliary transmission cooler. The ones that look like a small radiator are best. Do not tow in overdrive, even if the engine spins at 3500 rpm at highway speed. Make sure your tranny fluid is fresh and looks red and clean. If not, have it changed. Buy a lazer pointed temp gun if you are worried about the diff. The 3.73 gear is a good one for towing. Good luck.
Old March 14th, 2018, 12:46 PM
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75W90 full synthetic is already specified for the rear axle, even back to 2003 model year.

A diff cover with cooling fins would probably be a good upgrade.
Old March 19th, 2018, 9:12 AM
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I pull a 5800 (dry weight, 6800 wet) camper with my Suburban. After our Christmas trip, or shortly thereafter, the left side axle seal started leaking. I found it Saturday. My parking brake stopped holding..it was oil soaked. I replaced the seal on Saturday (3/17/18). I have a sneakin suspicion that things got hot in there. Maybe not. In any case it's fixed. We have a couple of upcoming trips so, I'll be sure to monitor that for heat. If it's hot I guess I'll start shopping for a Ford. I can't be without a decent tow vehicle. I have had my differential rebuilt less than a year ago. It's fine except for the leak I fixed. The Christmas trip included three days of pulling the camper. And, there were a few trips before that. The leak and the towing may not be related but, now I know I have to keep an eye on it. The axle seal replacement isn't a complex job, just labor intensive. I used regular old dino 80-90 this time. I had synthetic in it before. We have a trip over Easter weekend so, I'll be towing. I did this trip last year, twice with no issues. I will be carrying some gear oil though, just in case. It takes something like, 2.5 quarts to get the level right. Lots of people are towing with 9th gen Suburbans and Tahoes. So, this must not be an issue for everyone.. Although, they did have the axle seals in stock at O'Riley's. So, someone is using them. If I get out on the road and a seal starts leaking I'll get some brake cleaner, clean up that area as good as I can, top off the differential and drive it home.

Last edited by falconbrother; March 19th, 2018 at 9:24 AM.




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