Warranty and Oil Changes
November 6th, 2006, 1:55 PM
#31
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RE: Warranty and Oil Changes
I will be doing my first oil change this weekend I will go with Mobil 1 5W-30 This may be in the owners manual but how do I reset the Oil life monitor?
November 6th, 2006, 5:56 PM
#32
RE: Warranty and Oil Changes
Go to your DIC and get to where it says oil life remaining and hold in the enter button until it resets. The enter button is the one with a check mark on it.
Jason
Jason
November 6th, 2006, 5:59 PM
#33
RE: Warranty and Oil Changes
Dave:
I was at the snowmobile show this weekend and visited quite a few of the different oil booths. Two of them said that GM was no longer going to reccomend synthetic oils in the Corvettes. I was wondering if you knew anything about this, is this just a rumor, or is there some truth behind it. They were saying it had something to do with the tighter tolerances of the engines, and the synthetics weren't allowing enough oil by the rings??? Does this make any sense???
Jason
I was at the snowmobile show this weekend and visited quite a few of the different oil booths. Two of them said that GM was no longer going to reccomend synthetic oils in the Corvettes. I was wondering if you knew anything about this, is this just a rumor, or is there some truth behind it. They were saying it had something to do with the tighter tolerances of the engines, and the synthetics weren't allowing enough oil by the rings??? Does this make any sense???
Jason
March 14th, 2007, 8:56 PM
#34
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@ how many miles can I start running Mobile-1?
I just wanted to double check, and make sure it was ok to go change directly to Mobile-1 @ 1,500 miles...
Seems I remember hearing along time ago to wait until over 6k or moremiles, so that the engine was completely finished with the break-in process, because the full synthetic was too slippery to allow a proper break-in.
Your post was clear, I just wanted to confirm.
As a side note, I use Castrol Syntec, a synthetic blend, in my boat, as my understanding that the synthetic will slide off of the parts after sitting around for a long time, causingextra friction when starting, until the new oil gets pumped in by the engine... the mineral based oil component will stick to the parts longer.
Comments? Ya, I know I need to take the boat out more often!
My temps on the boat went down 10 degrees after changingfrom mineral based to the semi-synthetic.
Seems I remember hearing along time ago to wait until over 6k or moremiles, so that the engine was completely finished with the break-in process, because the full synthetic was too slippery to allow a proper break-in.
Your post was clear, I just wanted to confirm.
As a side note, I use Castrol Syntec, a synthetic blend, in my boat, as my understanding that the synthetic will slide off of the parts after sitting around for a long time, causingextra friction when starting, until the new oil gets pumped in by the engine... the mineral based oil component will stick to the parts longer.
Comments? Ya, I know I need to take the boat out more often!
My temps on the boat went down 10 degrees after changingfrom mineral based to the semi-synthetic.
ORIGINAL: ZX1100F1
If you plan on driving the Tahoe until the wheels fall off then here's the skinny:
Always use a good quality oil filter, AC Delco are decent, the $10 synthetic media filters are superior but may not be worth the expense (you'll have to decide).
You should make your first oil change at about 1,500 miles to get rig of all the suspended microscopic break-in particles that are not entrapped by the filter.
Then you are ok to follow the oil life monitor providing that you use a full synthetic oil (Mobile-1 5w-30 is highly recommended by GM) but many of you might have a favorite and the worst synthetic is generally better than the best mineral based product.
If you use regular mineral based motor oil then it would be wise to change the oil every 3-4k miles (or when the monitor reads about 50%) especially if towing or heavy stop and go in the heat.
Always change the oil when it the motor is at normal operating temperature and allow it to sit with the drain-plug out for as long as possible to allow as much contaminated oil to drip out as possible.
Make sure to clean the area around the filler neck and use a sparkling clean funnel (if needed) so you do not introduce any contamination to the engine when refilling.
The use of solvents in the crank case (such as Motor Flush) or any additives is strongly discouraged.
If you aren't going to keep the vehicle beyond 100,000 miles then follow the oil life monitor and use regular oil.
This topic has been the basis for some major league heated debates though and everyone has they're own ideas and opinions (which I respect).
If you plan on driving the Tahoe until the wheels fall off then here's the skinny:
Always use a good quality oil filter, AC Delco are decent, the $10 synthetic media filters are superior but may not be worth the expense (you'll have to decide).
You should make your first oil change at about 1,500 miles to get rig of all the suspended microscopic break-in particles that are not entrapped by the filter.
Then you are ok to follow the oil life monitor providing that you use a full synthetic oil (Mobile-1 5w-30 is highly recommended by GM) but many of you might have a favorite and the worst synthetic is generally better than the best mineral based product.
If you use regular mineral based motor oil then it would be wise to change the oil every 3-4k miles (or when the monitor reads about 50%) especially if towing or heavy stop and go in the heat.
Always change the oil when it the motor is at normal operating temperature and allow it to sit with the drain-plug out for as long as possible to allow as much contaminated oil to drip out as possible.
Make sure to clean the area around the filler neck and use a sparkling clean funnel (if needed) so you do not introduce any contamination to the engine when refilling.
The use of solvents in the crank case (such as Motor Flush) or any additives is strongly discouraged.
If you aren't going to keep the vehicle beyond 100,000 miles then follow the oil life monitor and use regular oil.
This topic has been the basis for some major league heated debates though and everyone has they're own ideas and opinions (which I respect).
March 14th, 2007, 11:10 PM
#35
RE: @ how many miles can I start running Mobile-1?
No truth to GM going away from synthetic on Corvette, it is a superior product in every conceivable way. GM would recommend or require it in all their products if it weren’t for competitive marketing.
Frosty, There is no reason why you cannot break-in an engine using synthetic oil, you can switch any time. There is no benefit to mineral based motor oils not even adherence, a 5W-30 mineral oil may fell thicker to the touch but it is no stickier than an equal weight synthetic when warm however; when cold the synthetic oils will flow faster and be pumped to the top-end faster.
Frosty, There is no reason why you cannot break-in an engine using synthetic oil, you can switch any time. There is no benefit to mineral based motor oils not even adherence, a 5W-30 mineral oil may fell thicker to the touch but it is no stickier than an equal weight synthetic when warm however; when cold the synthetic oils will flow faster and be pumped to the top-end faster.
March 14th, 2007, 11:58 PM
#36
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RE: Warranty and Oil Changes
I like using the dealership for oil changes. I used semi-syn last oil change which cost around $39.00, how much does Mobil 1 cost?
Is it possible to cost the same as dino oil based on life expectancy? My wife drives stop and go for the most part. 15K a year, wanting to keep the truck as long as possible. Live in the mid-west.
recommendations?
Is it possible to cost the same as dino oil based on life expectancy? My wife drives stop and go for the most part. 15K a year, wanting to keep the truck as long as possible. Live in the mid-west.
recommendations?
March 29th, 2007, 5:59 PM
#38
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RE: Warranty and Oil Changes
TonyH,
Not sure what the dealership would charge, but I just did my 1st change (@1,500 miles) yesterday...
I took it to a Kwik Kar next to my house, and they "Kwickly" relieved me of $75 for the Mobil 1.
frosty
Not sure what the dealership would charge, but I just did my 1st change (@1,500 miles) yesterday...
I took it to a Kwik Kar next to my house, and they "Kwickly" relieved me of $75 for the Mobil 1.
frosty
