I have a 2004 Suburban with the Bose/onstar upgrade. I am already aware that the Bose amplifier is under the center console, but I am aware that the Suburbans without Bose have the amp behind the glove box. There are not enough wires coming from the box behind my glove compartment, but they do appear to be speaker wires judging by the gauge/color. Can someone tell me what this box is? If it has anything to do with audio, I would also like to know what the wires lead to.


Also, I recently bypassed the Bose amp under the console by reconfiguring a Metra 70-2002 harness. I have an aftermarket Pioneer head unit and a blue box (PAC brand) that allows me to retain Onstar and chimes. This box has a port for either amplified or non-amplified systems. The "amplified" port cuts the signal to compensate for the factory amp. If the wrong port is used, the volume is maxed at about 14 on the head unit rather than 40 or so. Also, I have replaced the door speakers with Rockford Fosgate Punch component speakers with internal crossovers and separate tweeters to replace the factory ones. I used the connectors on the new door speakers for the tweeters rather than the connection that was there already for the factory tweeters. With all that said, everything is working as it should be, except while bypassing the amp, I lost the factory sub and rear pillar speakers. There are not output wires leading to these speakers. The factory amp takes the input signal and splits it to create outputs for the sub and rear pillars. My problem is, I would like to reincorporate the factory sub because it provides good mid bass to go along with my 3 300w 12" Kicker Comps powered by a 1000w Kenwood amp. I see that you can use the reverse wiring harness of the Metra 70-2002, the Metra 71-2002 to splice into the bypass wire for the rear door speakers and use the amp to power ONLY the sub and pillar speakers. If I do this and plug into the "non amplified" port on the PAC converter, will the factory sub and pillar speakers be too loud in proportion to the other speakers? And if I plug into "amplified" I assume the sub and pillars will be normal and the other speakers too quiet? The reason I bypassed the amp is for better sound quality and to bypass the built in crossover, but it does not sound like the door speakers are getting more on the low end. I was under the impression that by bypassing the factory amp, the door speakers would get a full range signal, but besides the sound being better, I only hear mids and highs from these speakers and not even mid bass. As far as the sub being too loud if I splice into the bypass loop, would splicing in to the rear door speakers change the impedance and make the rear door speakers and factory sub quieter and balance out the sound? This would still leave my rear door speakers too quiet. Would some type of LOC be necessary to cut the signal down to match the other speakers? I hope this post made sense. Please ask for clarification if needed.

 

Also, would I be able to power the factory sub and door speakers using a 5 channel amp with a crossover? I understand that Bose never releases power ratings, but I would bet the sub is rated between 50 and 100 watts. Or would simply getting a 4 channel amp to power the door speakers add mid bass so that the factory sub would be unnecessary?

 

The box is your digital radio receiver (XM Radio), the wires feed audio to the main radio.
Pin---Color---------Description
2---BRN/ WHT------L audio sig
3---DK GRN/WHT------R audio sig
7---LT GRN------Serial Data
9---BLK/WHT------GND
10---BLK/WHT------Audio Common
16---ORN------12V power

 

Ok that makes sense. Do you have any input on the second part of my post? Would I just be better off bypassing all factory audio by buying a good set of mid bass drivers and a 5 channel amp such as the Kenwood KAC-7005PS to power all 4 door speakers and a couple 250 watt 4 ohm mid bass drivers for the subwoofer channel with the low pass filter set around 250hz? Combining 2 4 ohm speakers wired in parallel would equal a 2 ohm load, correct?