Will My Beloved '07 LTZ Make 200k Miles?
December 4th, 2013, 1:58 PM
#11
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Sorry, I just now saw where you said left front sensor, so you already knew there were 2.
December 4th, 2013, 3:06 PM
#12
Thanks,as stated my vehicle is well out of warranty but the dealer is eating all the costs to fix the diff. leak. Hopefully the repairs will last
December 4th, 2013, 3:27 PM
#13
Administrator
ACDelco 25920615 Tire Pressure Sensor Assembly
December 4th, 2013, 5:06 PM
#14
OK. I be truly amazed if your or our suburban makes it to 200k.
We have owned this car since Jan 2009 and 50,000 miles
Things gone wrong since 96,000 miles:
-2011 lifter tick and oil consumption started (thankfully most people who get lifter tick their motor starts running like crap. Loose power and mpg falls off a cliff. Ours still runs great somehow V4 / V8 still works (tick started at 96K, now have 138K) and mpg is still 14.4~14.5 mpg)
-drinks a quart of Mobile 1 every ~1500 miles
-transcooler return line has a small leak.
-2011 brake rotors wrapped (new pads and a pair of rotors)
-2011 after putting new rotors and pads on the front right caliper locked up toward the end of a 5 hour car trip. Cooked the brand new rotor and pads. -2011 The right caliper then proceeded to start sticking, another caliper and set of pads.
-2012 front left wheel bearing went taking out the drive shaft with it.
-2013 new drive shaft boots are torn up...
-2012 shocks finally had it on holding air and compressor locked up.
-2012 new compressor (left unplugged)
-2013 march, replaced the shocks. Rode much better.
-2013 summer, the new compressor locked up. Full of water. Sorry we the boat ramps for our boats... (make sure you seal the new compressor as I did for the replacement!)
-2010 DVD/CD, NAV quit working.
-2011 rear lift gate latch stripped a plastic gear, opened up on RT17 on our way to the lake! (thank you HF Cargo rack!!!) New latch $400 in NY, FL was only $150...(thank you uncle!)
-2011 the new latch fixed the entire reat lift gate not wanting to work (would open or close right months prior) but it also fixed the DVD/CD and the Nav!!!
-2010 battery went pretty quick, new battery $160.
-car LOVES to over charge batteries! Likes to maintain 15.2 volts!!! (just put a new AGM battery in, after driving down to Philly and back it now charges a 14.1 volts for once)
-2012 starter went OPEN circuit, almost left us stranded at several locations (at the lake went it first wouldn't start)
-went to FL for spring break (uncle is a great mechanic and has his own shop) discovered the following:
-front diff had disgusting "oil" like substance in it, uncle thought it was completely f*cked. (some how it still works)
-front diff leaks out the driver side seal
-transfer case and rear diff had normal looking fluid
-2013 rear drive shaft bearing started squeaking in reverse at lake. Got home torn apart and they crumbled to pieces.
-2013 did a code scan, found out the front struts have intermittent solenoid failures
-car likes to randomly lock its self once in a while with the keys in it! It first did this to us in our barn at lake... pretty much ruined the driver door seal getting in...
so far thats all I can think of. Our Suburban took us to 100K. The only prob it gave us was the air ride quit due to the factory height sensors failing. And the intake manifold gasket leaked causing the car to run very lean...
Our 2005 Kia Amanti has 200,000 miles. It has not needed near as much work. Just all 4 rotors once, normal pads, all 4 struts, and rear wheel assemblies (wheel bearing, emergency brakes, rotors, and alignment adjustment points. the adjustments were all rounded due to Firestone guys using impact guns...)
We have owned this car since Jan 2009 and 50,000 miles
Things gone wrong since 96,000 miles:
-2011 lifter tick and oil consumption started (thankfully most people who get lifter tick their motor starts running like crap. Loose power and mpg falls off a cliff. Ours still runs great somehow V4 / V8 still works (tick started at 96K, now have 138K) and mpg is still 14.4~14.5 mpg)
-drinks a quart of Mobile 1 every ~1500 miles
-transcooler return line has a small leak.
-2011 brake rotors wrapped (new pads and a pair of rotors)
-2011 after putting new rotors and pads on the front right caliper locked up toward the end of a 5 hour car trip. Cooked the brand new rotor and pads. -2011 The right caliper then proceeded to start sticking, another caliper and set of pads.
-2012 front left wheel bearing went taking out the drive shaft with it.
-2013 new drive shaft boots are torn up...
-2012 shocks finally had it on holding air and compressor locked up.
-2012 new compressor (left unplugged)
-2013 march, replaced the shocks. Rode much better.
-2013 summer, the new compressor locked up. Full of water. Sorry we the boat ramps for our boats... (make sure you seal the new compressor as I did for the replacement!)
-2010 DVD/CD, NAV quit working.
-2011 rear lift gate latch stripped a plastic gear, opened up on RT17 on our way to the lake! (thank you HF Cargo rack!!!) New latch $400 in NY, FL was only $150...(thank you uncle!)
-2011 the new latch fixed the entire reat lift gate not wanting to work (would open or close right months prior) but it also fixed the DVD/CD and the Nav!!!
-2010 battery went pretty quick, new battery $160.
-car LOVES to over charge batteries! Likes to maintain 15.2 volts!!! (just put a new AGM battery in, after driving down to Philly and back it now charges a 14.1 volts for once
)-2012 starter went OPEN circuit, almost left us stranded at several locations (at the lake went it first wouldn't start)
-went to FL for spring break (uncle is a great mechanic and has his own shop) discovered the following:
-front diff had disgusting "oil" like substance in it, uncle thought it was completely f*cked. (some how it still works)
-front diff leaks out the driver side seal
-transfer case and rear diff had normal looking fluid
-2013 rear drive shaft bearing started squeaking in reverse at lake. Got home torn apart and they crumbled to pieces.
-2013 did a code scan, found out the front struts have intermittent solenoid failures
-car likes to randomly lock its self once in a while with the keys in it! It first did this to us in our barn at lake... pretty much ruined the driver door seal getting in...
so far thats all I can think of. Our Suburban took us to 100K. The only prob it gave us was the air ride quit due to the factory height sensors failing. And the intake manifold gasket leaked causing the car to run very lean...
Our 2005 Kia Amanti has 200,000 miles. It has not needed near as much work. Just all 4 rotors once, normal pads, all 4 struts, and rear wheel assemblies (wheel bearing, emergency brakes, rotors, and alignment adjustment points. the adjustments were all rounded due to Firestone guys using impact guns...)
December 6th, 2013, 9:32 AM
#15
anyone ever heard of or done an engine flush using aft fluids? i heard this frees up lifters? i know i might get bashed for this. but i'm looking for facts not opinions. and the only reason i'm even mentioning this is cuz joe in ny mentioned his lifters
December 6th, 2013, 10:44 AM
#16
Administrator
Here's a anecdotal data point. I used ATF on a friends old Ford pickup truck with over 100,000 miles that had several sticky lifters. It ran like a top within a hundred miles. Not sure I would try it on a newer vehicle.
December 6th, 2013, 1:50 PM
#17
I dumped 1/2 a can of Seafoam in the Burb yesterday. The other half was put into the
restored 72 Bronco's tank for winter storage. I swear by this stuff. For a vehicle with
99,100 miles my Suburban runs as smooth as ever.
restored 72 Bronco's tank for winter storage. I swear by this stuff. For a vehicle with
99,100 miles my Suburban runs as smooth as ever.
December 6th, 2013, 10:51 PM
#18
AH seafoam, not good... Sorry but seafoam is not good for an engine long term... Especially if you put in the engine oil!
For atf, put 4 quarts of cheap oil in with 1 quart atf, run for no more than 1~2 min. ATF is powerful at cleaning, running longer can easily result in clogging oil passages and causes large amounts of damage. Change oil with cheap oil again, and replace that oil in 1,000 miles or so... I hear a lot of mechanics following this path and it works, just have to be patient and careful with powerful cleaners...
For atf, put 4 quarts of cheap oil in with 1 quart atf, run for no more than 1~2 min. ATF is powerful at cleaning, running longer can easily result in clogging oil passages and causes large amounts of damage. Change oil with cheap oil again, and replace that oil in 1,000 miles or so... I hear a lot of mechanics following this path and it works, just have to be patient and careful with powerful cleaners...
December 7th, 2013, 8:39 AM
#19
AH seafoam, not good... Sorry but seafoam is not good for an engine long term... Especially if you put in the engine oil!
For atf, put 4 quarts of cheap oil in with 1 quart atf, run for no more than 1~2 min. ATF is powerful at cleaning, running longer can easily result in clogging oil passages and causes large amounts of damage. Change oil with cheap oil again, and replace that oil in 1,000 miles or so... I hear a lot of mechanics following this path and it works, just have to be patient and careful with powerful cleaners...
For atf, put 4 quarts of cheap oil in with 1 quart atf, run for no more than 1~2 min. ATF is powerful at cleaning, running longer can easily result in clogging oil passages and causes large amounts of damage. Change oil with cheap oil again, and replace that oil in 1,000 miles or so... I hear a lot of mechanics following this path and it works, just have to be patient and careful with powerful cleaners...
Last edited by LTL4life; December 7th, 2013 at 9:08 AM.
December 7th, 2013, 10:29 AM
#20
Chevrons Techron injector and fuel system cleaner is like $10 to treat 20 gallons and that stuff works.
But you guys all know that fuel injector cleaner is pretty much a waste of money on all Gen IV ls motors right?
But you guys all know that fuel injector cleaner is pretty much a waste of money on all Gen IV ls motors right?