winter tires
#1
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I'm considering buying winter tires for my 2012 Tahoe LTZ - Michelin ICE-X or Bridgestone Blizzards. I had my 2003 Tahoe for 9 years and 200,000 miles and just bought all-season tires over the years. I do a lot of driving in winter weather and snowy roads and tow snowmobiles on a trailer. Just seems to make sense but would be interested in other opinions if the nearly $1,000 expense has been worth it or not, or if there has been any problems or issues with snow tires and the LTZ. Thanks!
Last edited by moosehead1; December 10th, 2013 at 10:09 PM.
#2
Super Moderator
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I'm considering buying winter tires for my 2012 Tahoe LTZ - Michelin ICE-X or Bridgestone Blizzards. I had my 2003 Tahoe for 9 years and 200,000 miles and just bought all-season tires over the years. I do a lot of driving in winter weather and snowy roads and tow snowmobiles on a trailer. Just seems to make sense but would be interested in other opinions if the nearly $1,000 expense has been worth it or not, or if there has been any problems or issues with snow tires and the LTZ. Thanks!
Both of those are very good choices and I don't know of any issues with those type tires and the LTZ's. As far is the expense, IMHO a good set of tires is the best insurance policy you can have.
#5
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Michelin ltx ms2. Or good year wrangler silent armor. If you truly want a dedicated snow tire look at the silent armor. Great deep snow tire. Michelins are all season that I like so far for everything I've thrown at it.
#6
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You beat me to it. I run the silent armor Pro-grades. We have miserable winters in Wisconsin and these tires never let me down
#7
Super Moderator
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Several very good recommendations here, and I've personally use a couple of them. One thing I did, given how immediate the weather changes can be where I lived here in Texas, which were very hot to very cold with Snow and Ice, is...
I bought an inexpensive set of Steel Rims (4) and mounted my Snow Tires on them. When the first Snow fell, I'd just change my Street/Hiway's off, and set them in the Garage for a few months. With a Floor Jack and Electric Impact Wrench, took about 30 minutes.
(lived in Amarillo Tx for several years)
I bought an inexpensive set of Steel Rims (4) and mounted my Snow Tires on them. When the first Snow fell, I'd just change my Street/Hiway's off, and set them in the Garage for a few months. With a Floor Jack and Electric Impact Wrench, took about 30 minutes.
(lived in Amarillo Tx for several years)
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#8
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Thank you SWHouston and others for the suggestions. I checked out the GY Wrangler Silent Armours Pro Grade - good tire but more off-rode than I need. The Nokians looked good too and are carried by my local tire store - a little more expensive. I ordered the BS Blizzak DMV1s from TireRack and expected to have them on before this weekend's snow storm. Thanks again.
#9
Super Moderator
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Moose,
That's a good choice !
Good snow/ice and wet traction as well. You'll get really great wet traction from running them directionally as the Manufacturer requires, with the "V" of the tread pattern upright on all four positions (as viewed from the front of your vehicle). That will require the "I" method of rotation.
You were aware these are directional, and understand how to properly mount them ?
Also, a new set requires a "break in" period...
You should inflate the pressure (PSI) to within 10% of the Maximum Cold Inflation Pressure (as stamped on the sidewall of each tire) an run them with that pressure for 400-500 miles. This promotes the stability of the tire, and allows the curing process to complete it's self.
I personally continue with that higher pressure for the life of the tire, and there are several beneficial reasons for that.
That's a good choice !
Good snow/ice and wet traction as well. You'll get really great wet traction from running them directionally as the Manufacturer requires, with the "V" of the tread pattern upright on all four positions (as viewed from the front of your vehicle). That will require the "I" method of rotation.
You were aware these are directional, and understand how to properly mount them ?
Also, a new set requires a "break in" period...
You should inflate the pressure (PSI) to within 10% of the Maximum Cold Inflation Pressure (as stamped on the sidewall of each tire) an run them with that pressure for 400-500 miles. This promotes the stability of the tire, and allows the curing process to complete it's self.
I personally continue with that higher pressure for the life of the tire, and there are several beneficial reasons for that.
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