Hey Folks,


First post!

I have experienced two (potentially related) issues with my Tahoe in the last two months.

1. Has happened twice (second time today), come to a stop car feels like the engine cuts off, cant move. Battery light comes on. Shut it off re-start drove home fine. Voltage gauge once restarted reads just above 14 (back to normal).

I used a voltmeter to test the Battery (car off) - 12.7x volts. Tested alternator (car running) 14.2x volts.

Checked fuses under hood - don't see any blown fuses.

The first time this happened girlfriend was stopped puling into a parking spot and same thing happened as described above.

The battery light doesn't stay on and this happens infrequently as off now. Thank goodness we are stopped, trying to get ahead of this before it happens while driving.

Any thoughts on the first problem?


2. Has happened once - stopped at light, tahoe shuts down, reduced power mode comes on, check engine light on. Was in limp home mode, got it towed due to highway driving.

When to get the codes checked, several codes, mainly related to TPS, APP, readings not matching or something.

Unplugged battery and message and engine light went away, hasn't happened since then (1 months gone by).

I am stumped by both, 2003 Tahoe LT 119,xxx 5.3 Vortec. 3,000 miles ago did plugs, wires, water pump, pulley, belts and changed axle fluid.

Would appreciate the help / thoughts.

Thanks - Matt

 

So an update - see that almost 100 views but no responses..

I checked the three grounds (volt meter and tightness):

For the volt meter check I put it to 20v and plugged positive end of meter to battery (+) and touched the three ground points and there was a reading of 12.6x with car off. Let me know if I am not testing my grounds correctly.

Ground 1: At battery
Ground2: Firewall
Ground 3: behind block

Any other grounds I should be aware of or test in a different way?

Thanks

 

First all grounds should be at ground , in other words reading a VOM, it reads difference of potential, battery + to battery - should be the same 12.9 volts or whatever. Dosen't matter as long as you have the same at each point.
Your post quote"When to get the codes checked, several codes, mainly related to TPS, APP, readings not matching or something.". You might want to get into further detail of this.

 

I will add, the connection at the VOM terminal should be clean, as that might give you a false reading