brucemc777

Have yet to pull any of those yet, but will keep monitoring and i value the knowledge very much.

As i had her leave the car with me today, i am going to try to re-create the issue in hopes of learning something more. My guess is i won't and that, as you narrowed the possibilities down, it is either a bad regulator or pump. In the meantime, Rock Auto was dumping a line of regulators that fit this car at about $27 a piece with two left, so i ordered one. I think i still am going to pick up that gauge from Harbor Freight, as this isn't the first vehicle i could have used one on-

Thank-you, and will advise progress!

brucemc777

Ran the darned thing in idle for an hour yesterday, half the time with full a/c and radio, wouldn't die for me. I HATE intermittent problems!

Next attempt to more accurately replicate circumstances is to drive it on the highway for a half hour, then let it sit in idle.

My wife wants me to dump it for another car, but i kind of like the little thing - the engine looks relatively easy to work on; hope the same goes for the brakes (no present problems, but at some point i am bound to need to handle).

L84sky

Before changing the catalytic converter(s) it is well worth watching this 15 minute video. Harbor Freight sells these infrared thermometers.

https://www.google.com/search?q=how+...UQAg#kpvalbx=1

brucemc777

Excellent video! I believe i can get live data readings of my O2 sensors (though i am not positive), but i always wanted a good enough excuse to get an IR thermometer.

You will love this - Besides buying the Tracker about 10 days or so ago, yesterday i bought a 2007 Nissan Versa for another daughter (No, i don't spoil them, they get to pay us payments back). Today it threw a P0420...

brucemc777

Alright, after replacing both the fuel filter and regulator, i ran out and got the fuel pressure gage (i already bought the IR thermometer...), and am working on the coupling to attach the gage to to the rail. What is the best way to relieve line fuel pressure for this car? I tried pulling the electronic ignition fuse in the engine compartment fuse block, and found that doing so just made it impossible to fire it up, i don't think that i killed the pump (embarrassment)... Matter of fact, i am even wondering if i need to relieve line pressure in that when i replaced the filter, and then a couple weeks later the regulator, i really don't recall much of any pressure at all.

Also, a neighbor suggested that i might be experiencing vapor lock. I remember this being a problem with some motorcycles when i was a kid, but i hadn't heard of this effecting modern cars - though the symptoms are dead-on similar. Is this a possibility worth checking, and if so, how the heck would i go about it?

As always, Thank-You Very Much!

L84sky

What is the "best" way to relieve the fuel pressure in the line? Here are two answers, you pick the one you like. The first is the factory procedure:



Keep in mind they want you to pull the relay not a fuse.



The illustration above does not really pinpoint the location of the relay. You can see it better in the photo below.



It's on the junction panel above the driver's kick panel. The problem is the relay is hard to remove. I find it easier to let the car sit overnight. Most of the pressure will have bled off by morning. I put a rag over the fuel line before I remove it to catch any spray. For safety sake I also wear a face shield while I'm doing it. If you didn't pull the relay when changing the regulator and the filter, I see no reason to go through the trouble now. Vapor lock and a bad fuel pump will present almost identical symptoms --- no fuel to the fuel engine. But vapor lock was practically eliminated when manufacturers started putting the fuel pump inside the fuel tank. The downside is now you have to remove the fuel tank to replace the fuel pump.

brucemc777

Thank-you!

I hear what you are saying. Took the bed off one of my pick-up trucks to replace that one, and had the "fun" of dropping a tank in my 2001 Isuzu Rodeo when i had to replace that one. I like your "let the car sit" method...

L84sky

I'm hoping you will post pictures and a parts list when you get the fuel pressure gauge adapter assembled. That's going to be a valuable tool for any one having fuel issues with a 2.0L engine.

brucemc777

It will be my pleasure!

brucemc777

With several parts on order, herefollows the first cheap workable (but not recommended) approach:

As i had items on order and now i get to await delivery, carrying the fuel rail plug and the gage hose with the flare fitting in hand i went into a Home Depot and spent a good hour going through parts there, then an Advance Auto, and finally Ace Hardware.

At Ace i was able to find that the flare side seems to be a 7/16-20 flare fitting and the plug seems to be a 9/16-18. I must stress the "seems to be" because with plumbing and pipes and tubing there are so many variations it is ridiculous. There is the width, which can be standard or metric, there is threads per (inch or whatever) and there appears to also be the size of the actual thread itself. This took my prior frustrations working with plumbing fittings for the house to a new level.

I found what seemed to be a workable 9/16-18 union ("male to male") and a 7/16-20 flare to 9/16-20 female.



Because i did not want the union to get stuck in the fuel rail opening if the connection to the flare fitting gave way first when it came time to unscrew the adapter i was making (the hex nut being a part of the flare portion), i used my torch with MAPP gas to solder the two pieces together, after making some cuts in the flare fitting female side.


Once cooled i tested this assembly, and even though screwed in rather tight (glad i soldered them together), gas still leaked out through the threads. I could tell by the initial feel when trying to screw the adapter into the rail that it felt slightly loose.

So this is obviously something we can easily overcome using some Teflon thread-seal tape, but if you choose to go this route you must be very careful not to let any tape fragments get into your fuel rail or you will foul an injector. Use care in where you apply the tape and after removing the adapter, check the threads inside the rail for any fragments, brushing them out if need be. On the other hand, this solution only cost a little over $4.00 and a little time soldering. That item from Summit Racing was $14.95 PLUS another $6 or so handling alone...

I have a few items on their way to me at this time, probably by banana boat. As they arrive i will see what is needed to interface and post-