firetech304

I have a 03 TB that I purchased in Sept 06. I did not experience my first problem with it till I was traveling from Ohio to Myrtle Beach Sept 07. I was driving on the interstate with the cruise control on and got into some traffic and kicked the cruise off. I then noticed that the speedometer was not coming down as I was slowing down. Apparently the speed I was traveling at when the cruise was engaged had now become “0” because every time I accelerated the speedometer would increase. I found an exit and pulled off. I turned the vehicle off and restarted and again the reading it was stuck at was now “0”. It got to the point where the needle was facing straight down where the gear indicator is located. I had no idea what my actual speed was during the whole trip.

Then after the trip I noticed that just about every time that I would use the cruise, the tachometer started sticking and there was shifting problems with the transmission. There is a very hard shift between 1 and 2 and it hesitates to go into overdrive.

I’ve had it looked at by a transmission shop and two Chevy dealers.

The transmission shop said that they couldn’t find a problem in the computers but did recognize that there was a shift problem.

The first Chevy dealer I took it to basically said the same thing. After no codes were found in the computer they wanted to run some update, which I am assuming that was on the ECM. This updated was for idle and transmission shifting. Of course the tachometer wouldn’t act up for them so there wasn’t anything that could do for it till I was able to bring it back it back when it was. They also changed the transmission fluid but wouldn’t change the filter because the mileage did not warrant them changing it. I was also told that they could crack the tranny open for an inspection but since it wasn’t completely broke, they didn’t feel that it was necessary and it would also save me from being charged for a new gasket kit to put it all back together. What was done it would by chance straighten the shifting problem out. I got a mile down the road and the tachometer started acting up and the shifting problems were still present. That was a $175 waste of time.

A guy in the service dept at the second Chevy dealer mentioned that he thought that there was a recall of the instrument cluster failure, which may be the cause of the transmission issues. So I was told to bring in it and that they would take a look at it so I made the appointment. Of course the day of the appointment the guy I spoke to wasn’t there andeveryone played dumbto any recall. Like the trip to the first Chevy dealer the tachometer was not acting up so they couldn’t do anything with. But after my persistence that there was a problem, they mysteriously performed a diagnostic test and found that that it had failed during the test. Now all of a sudden their story changed and that it was suggested to have the cluster replaced. I then was given a quote for like $375 for parts and labor for the repair of the cluster. They supposedly did a test drive and they too confirmed the hard shifting but there was no codes in the computer. But they did suggest that with replacing the cluster that it would more then likely correct the shifting issues. I haven’t made the appointment to have that done yet. And yes, I did get charged for the diagnostics of thecluster which I thought was bull since I was toldto bring it in and that they would look at it and that there was a recall on it. So basically I felt like I was baited in the service charge and again, another $150 invested and the problem is still not fixed.

Besides those problems, I have also had the passenger side taillight experience a meltdown on the factory harness connector that plugs into the pc board for the 3 bulbs. I ended up going to a junkyard getting a used pc board and connector and did the replacement. That seemed to correct the problem, but then I noticed that the brake light and reverse light were taking turns intermittently working. I haven’t evaluated that problem yet.

Then recently the driver side low beam headlight has been intermittently working. I originally thought that it was just a blown out bulb. So I went and purchased a replacement bulb and when I went to install it, to my surprise I found the molex connector for the bulb was burned black. I jiggled the wiring and the bulb came back on so for the time being I left it go. The headlight worked for about a week and went out. I took it apart again to try and to get it working long enough again till I can get to the junkyard and not get pulled over for a burned out headlight. This time when I took it apart, the plug was burned to the point where the plastic was now burned away from the one set of contacts. So I again cleaned it up the best I could andplugged it back in and the bulb came on. So I know that I definitely need to go and get a replacement plug asap.

With the exception of the taillights, I’ve been reading that many of you out there have been experiencing the same issues I have been faced with. Which is a shame because this is the first SUV that I’ve owned and I love my trailblazer. Maybe I should have just bought a Dodge Durango. My sister has owned one for almost 7 years and the only problem she has had with it is a gas cap. If anyone out there has been able to overcome the issues that I have I would love to hear about it. To all those out there that are still dealing with the same headaches that I am experiencing I know your pain and all I can offer is good luck keeping your sanity.

rbarrios

many people report melted connectors when they install aftermarket bulbs- and not those that are OEM. did you install regular halogens?

Go to www.trailvoy.com read up there.
I know ive seen several post on the cluster acting up. some have had luck in removing a fuse and putting it back- and the cluster works again.
many times its the stepper motor that dies.
If that fails. there is a place that you can send your cluster to that will repair it. (versus having a new one put in)

As for the tranny..... im not sure. but when the computer sees a cold engine- it does modify shifting...
But if your engine was running cold- then youd have had the P0128 code set (thermostat)....

the tailamps- there was a recall on those circuit boards. they would put new updated ones in. you can call dealer and give them your VIN # and they can tell you if the recall was done.

for the cluster- I dont think there was a recall on those. there was possibly a TSB. or technical service bulletin.
The TSB just tells the techs or conditions and what to do. does not mean they will fix it free.

firetech304

Rbarrios

Thanks for the info I appreciate it.....

Both headlightshave the existing bulbs that were in it when I purchasedthe vehiclea little over 2 years ago. I bought a pair of sylvania 9006's to replace what I thought was a burned out bulb and thats when I discovered thecripsy connector and just left the bulb in place, which still works. The next time I have the bulb out I will have to take a look to see its OEM or not

As far as the the fuse for the cluster, would you happen to know where this fuse is located or how difficult it is to remove and put back in? If its something rather easy to pop out and put back in I would like to try that and see if it changes anything. On a side note, I can also remember sitting at idle and hearing a noise coming from the dash, which must be from the stepper motor. The best way I can describe the sound is that of two plastic gears like grinding with each otherfor a split second every few seconds or so. I can still hear that same noise so as long as its making a noise it is still working right? If that is not the case, can those motors slip?


Thanks

rbarrios

When I turn my TB off... as the needles park themselves- and if its quiet inside the vehicle- and especially in cold weather-I can hear the little gears turning. (if i leave the key in the ignition while I gas up- I can also hear the gas needle make that little sound as it goes up)....

I found this over at Trailvoy.com - it may help you. some say its a temporary fix....

"I had issues with mine too. Just pull the #24 fuse for 30 sec and it will reset itself. Also if you stop in run position for a few seconds before starting it somehow tells the speedo to readjust itself. I got mine back to 0 from 60 just by waiting a few seconds before starting"


theres also other owners who sent their speedos to get fixed. so they got their own units fixed- and didnt require reprogramming. like a new one would.

others went on ebay- and bought the new improved stepper motors from a guy that sells them.

as for your bulbs.... as long as theyre OEM/ or aftermarket and DONT exceed I think its 55watts... it should be ok.
many ebay "bright white" bulbs exceed the 55 watts... thats why theyre bright... but this causes excess heat (pulls more power) and you get crispy parts...Heat can also be generated when there is not a good connection between the bulbs terminals and the connectors....
you may want to check your connectors- and clean them if need be.. and apply DIELECTRIC grease when you plug back the bulbs. this will help make good connections.

http://www.etrailer.com/tv-faq_dielectric_grease.aspx[/align]

rbarrios

the grease is available at auto parts.