Uplander 2005-2009
This sport-van offers a sporty feel and roomy interior, all in the body of a minivan.
Platform: U-Body

2006 Uplander electrical gremlins..

Old Dec 13, 2011 | 7:33 AM
  #21  
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Look at the alternator repair. I bet your headlights are flickering as well. You just may not notice it as much.

I went with a traverse and have had about the same luck with it unfortunately.
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Old Jan 12, 2012 | 9:53 AM
  #22  
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Hey Titty!, your manual is worth its weight in gold and it tells you how to program the fob in it!
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Old Jun 17, 2012 | 1:56 AM
  #23  
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The flickering headlamp issue was solved on older models by simply removing the alternator and cleaning the mounting points to ensure a good ground connection between the alt body and engine... just my 2 cents worth, maybe worth a try.
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Old Oct 27, 2012 | 2:15 AM
  #24  
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Anyone got a PDF of the wiring diagrams? My dash lights are out and climate control lights out. 9 good bulbs in the cluster. Radio drops out every now and then and headlights flicker.
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Old Dec 27, 2012 | 11:04 AM
  #25  
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We just bought a used 2006 uplander for our local dealer. At first,we were not sure if we really saw the light problem, but it got me looking. I set the dash display to show the voltage. It surprised me to see 15-15.4 volts most of the time, but does come down to 14.3-14.4. Then one time we were going down the road and the heater fan slowed way down (I had the switch on 3), and then came back up. I looked at the voltage display and it showed 12.0, but then went back up to 15.0. I took it in and they checked it out and told me there is no problems reported in the computer. The issues we are seeing is 'normal'.
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Old Dec 27, 2012 | 1:15 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by DyHunter
We just bought a used 2006 uplander for our local dealer. At first,we were not sure if we really saw the light problem, but it got me looking. I set the dash display to show the voltage. It surprised me to see 15-15.4 volts most of the time, but does come down to 14.3-14.4. Then one time we were going down the road and the heater fan slowed way down (I had the switch on 3), and then came back up. I looked at the voltage display and it showed 12.0, but then went back up to 15.0. I took it in and they checked it out and told me there is no problems reported in the computer. The issues we are seeing is 'normal'.
It is normal for the voltage to fluctuate as you're driving down the road. By chance were you running the AC or defroster when you witnessed the volts drop to 12 and then come back up? The cooling fans on the Uplander will cycle as you drive down the road if the AC compressor is running with the resultant voltage dip and rise once the voltage regulator reacts to it. Keep in mind that the compressor will run when: The AC is running, the defroster is running and also when the heater is running with all of the air directed to the floor vents. This is the one that folks don't realize. Sounds like everything with your Uplander is normal.
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Old Dec 27, 2012 | 6:53 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 442dude
It is normal for the voltage to fluctuate as you're driving down the road. By chance were you running the AC or defroster when you witnessed the volts drop to 12 and then come back up? The cooling fans on the Uplander will cycle as you drive down the road if the AC compressor is running with the resultant voltage dip and rise once the voltage regulator reacts to it. Keep in mind that the compressor will run when: The AC is running, the defroster is running and also when the heater is running with all of the air directed to the floor vents. This is the one that folks don't realize. Sounds like everything with your Uplander is normal.
We were going to church and had the heat/defrost running with the fan speed set to 3 (of 5), also had the rear fan running at 2 (of 3). Headlights were set to auto, not sure if they were on at the time. I did just find another post that someone had replaced the battery cable terminals and that seemed to make things better for them. I looked at mine and have never liked this new style. The exposed copper where the ground is crimpped to the terminal is also green.
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Old Dec 27, 2012 | 8:58 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by DyHunter
We were going to church and had the heat/defrost running with the fan speed set to 3 (of 5), also had the rear fan running at 2 (of 3). Headlights were set to auto, not sure if they were on at the time. I did just find another post that someone had replaced the battery cable terminals and that seemed to make things better for them. I looked at mine and have never liked this new style. The exposed copper where the ground is crimpped to the terminal is also green.
Certainly won't hurt anything if you clean them but it sounds like things are working as they should. With the compressor running the cooling fans on these cycle on and off and its likely the cause of the fluctuations as they move up to high speed and back down. On ours its noticeable especially in stop and go traffic but always right back to normal in about 1-2 seconds. Once you've cleaned things up post back and let us know your results.
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Old Jan 3, 2015 | 3:53 AM
  #29  
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Default Door with a mind of its own...

a quick fix for the electric/automatic doors that keep opening and closing on its own, is to unplug a set of wires located at the rear compartment that is located on the right side behind the back seat. simple fix that kill power to the motor but keep in mind that you would not be able to open the door by pressing the switch..
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Old Feb 25, 2015 | 12:58 AM
  #30  
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I just replaced mine last summer, its for sale through gm parts....here in Canada anyway.
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