Venture 1997-2005
This minivan from Chevy offers a sporty look as well as all of the modern additons of the minivan market.
Platform: U-Body

Halfshaft removal

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Old August 11th, 2007, 8:53 PM
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Default Halfshaft removal

Hi, We have a 1998 Venture Van and I need to replace the passenger side driveshaft/halfshaft assembly. I have gotten the entire outer end free and now just need to get the inner end free from the transaxle. On the new halfshaft the inner side has a retaining clip that I assume is also on the old shaft. This tells me that I simply can't pull the shaft free of the transaxle so I'm wondering how this is done. I read a Chiltons manual at the library and they over simplify the process by just stating after the outer end is free "use a suitable tool to pry the shaft free without damaging the oilseal" From what it looks like I believe the transmission must be drained and you need to remove part of the transaxle case to remove the retaining clip that I see on the new one. I can see that I can remove the 4 bolts on this portion of the transaxle case but there is also a metal bracket that is bolted to the engine block that looks really hard to remove. Even if I do all this I'm not sure its the correct process. I think there is a step missing in the manual I read. Does anyone know the correct procedure is therealso aspecial tool I need? The transfluid and filter are very new but will drain the fluid if I need to. Thank you for any information.
Old September 2nd, 2007, 12:07 PM
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Default RE: Halfshaft removal

According to a "Mitchell" manual that I have, you have to use a "slide hammer" to remove it.. I guess I assume that there is a special Chevy part for this, but not sure.

I was thinking about doing this job today, but not sure now! I hate when you need some special tool to do a job.

Good luck... Since you posted a few days ago, let me (us) know if you got it?

Old September 12th, 2007, 8:45 PM
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Default RE: Halfshaft removal

Hi, Thanks for your information. I have not yet again tried to remove it but I did speak to someone who has removed one. They did not get a special tool but used a grinder to cuta notch in the shaft axel near the transaxel case to use as a pry-point. They then used a block of wood to protect the transaxel case and were able to remove the shaft. This information matches the techique that would be used with a slide hammer as you describe. My main problem was that I could not see how it would come apart given the placment of that snapring but was informed the inside of the transaxel is a conical shape that will self compress the ring on its way out. I'm not sure if I"m actually going to cut the notch but my fear of pulling on the shaft and causing a worse problem is alleviated. I will repost as soon as I have a result.
Old September 16th, 2007, 11:42 AM
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Default RE: Halfshaft removal

Success! Its amazing what you can do with the right information. After making sure the vehicle was securely supported and I had the outer end of the halfshaft free all I used was one of those prybars that they sell for carpenters to remove nails etc. Its about 14" long and used its edges wedged against the transaxel case and the halfshaft section that holds the inner ujoint. I must admit it seemed like it wasn't going to move but then suddenly I felt it "give" and only thought my prybar had slipped but then saw the telltale increased distance on the halfshaft axel, it then came right out! Becareful because without making sure the vehicle was securely lifted you won't have confidence needed to properly apply the force needed. Another thing is I have fairly strong arms (liftweights) and I'm not sure I could have held and forced the tool had I not had the strength. Goodluck to you and let me know if you have any questions.
Old September 16th, 2007, 5:45 PM
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Default RE: Halfshaft removal

A few things to note:
I don't think the slide hammer would work unless you were disassembling the shaft at the last joint where it goes into the transaxel case since the only thing that hold the outer part of the shaft connected to the inner half is the boot.

Careful prying as there are I think two fuel lines right where if you slip with the prybar would likely tear into them causing a leak.

Make sure you get the inner part of the new shaft all the way in so it locks.




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