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Replaceing Thermostat (no heat, temp gage erattic, etc)
February 11th, 2012, 6:05 PM
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Replaceing Thermostat (no heat, temp gage erattic, etc)
I'm posting this in hope of helping someone avoid the grief I had this morning.
The car is a 2002 Chevy Venture, the symptoms: little or no heat, temperature gage erratic, poor gas milage. I used a non contact thermometer to read the temperture of the thermostat outlet tube, and it consistanly read low (165 deg) so I suspected a open thermostat. problem was the thermostat is a BITCH to change.
Here's what I learned. Don't remove the crossover tube - not necessary. I tried at first to follow a youtube video where a fellow removes almost nothing and gets the thermostat bolts out with a curved wrench. Spent 3 hours getting the bolts out only to find you can't get the thermostat housing off using this method. &%$&*^%*&%
Do, this.
- remove upper radiator hose, MAF, front of air cleaner and air filter.
- remove thermostat bypass tube (total removal not necessary, I unbolted it at the water pump & this gave enough slack to remove
the two collant tubes coming out of the throttle body) (Rev 1/12/12)
- remove throttle body.
- I know all this removing is a PITA but its the quickest way !!!
- now you can remove the thermostat housing, the lower bolt is a bitch, but doable.
- rotate the housing to wiggle it up and out.
- put a SMALL amout of RTV on the back of the thermostats rubber gasket to hold it in place while you reinstall the housing.
If I had used this method to begin with the whole job would have taken less the 2 hours.
The heater works perfectly now. The temperature gage now reads normally and is no longer erratic. i expect my fuel economy will be better as the engine was running to cold.
BTW the old thermostat was open all the time.
Follow these suggestions and the force will be with you! ;o)
Cheers
schuh
The car is a 2002 Chevy Venture, the symptoms: little or no heat, temperature gage erratic, poor gas milage. I used a non contact thermometer to read the temperture of the thermostat outlet tube, and it consistanly read low (165 deg) so I suspected a open thermostat. problem was the thermostat is a BITCH to change.
Here's what I learned. Don't remove the crossover tube - not necessary. I tried at first to follow a youtube video where a fellow removes almost nothing and gets the thermostat bolts out with a curved wrench. Spent 3 hours getting the bolts out only to find you can't get the thermostat housing off using this method. &%$&*^%*&%
Do, this.
- remove upper radiator hose, MAF, front of air cleaner and air filter.
- remove thermostat bypass tube (total removal not necessary, I unbolted it at the water pump & this gave enough slack to remove
the two collant tubes coming out of the throttle body) (Rev 1/12/12)
- remove throttle body.
- I know all this removing is a PITA but its the quickest way !!!
- now you can remove the thermostat housing, the lower bolt is a bitch, but doable.
- rotate the housing to wiggle it up and out.
- put a SMALL amout of RTV on the back of the thermostats rubber gasket to hold it in place while you reinstall the housing.
If I had used this method to begin with the whole job would have taken less the 2 hours.
The heater works perfectly now. The temperature gage now reads normally and is no longer erratic. i expect my fuel economy will be better as the engine was running to cold.
BTW the old thermostat was open all the time.
Follow these suggestions and the force will be with you! ;o)
Cheers
schuh
Last edited by schuh; February 12th, 2012 at 10:11 AM. Reason: Add information
January 2nd, 2014, 8:32 PM
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my father in laws venture
still doing this even with a new thermostat. Temp guage drops fast but never goes above mid... all the air is out as we bled it quite a bit. no heat inside but then again it hasn't in years ...well not much. I put in a premium thermostat and we tested the old one that came out and it opened fine in the boiling water test.
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