I’d recommend starting a new thread just because it can get confusing trying to work through 2 different problems in the same thread.

I’ll copy and paste my answer to your questions.

If it’s been a year since the front end has been greased, I’d start there. Purge them all, meaning pump grease into them until you see CLEAN grease coming out of the boots. It will be messy for sure but worth it to know you have removed the bulk of the contamination from them as well.

I’d recommend using a wire brush and compressed air to remove any dirt from around the zerks - don’t forget safety glasses.

If the check ***** in the zerks are stuck, a few “stabs” with a pick or small screwdriver should loosen them up.

It will also help the ball joints take grease by getting the front wheels off the ground.

If any of the joints are being very stubborn and not taking grease, try turning the wheel full left or full right and try again.

Once everything has been greased, turn the wheel stop to stop several times and add a little more grease to help remove any remaining contamination. Then probably hit the car wash to clean off the excess.

When you replaced the pump, did you manually bleed the system (turning the wheel stop to stop with the front wheels off the ground and the engine off) before starting the engine?

 

After I charged the system with R134A and added some dye to it, I drove the truck for a few days and than checked with the U/V light for leaks. Well, the problem is the Condenser and not the Evaporator which is great news for me. I did check the drain line coming off the evaporator and there is no sign of dye there. The condenser has several area's that show the dye on it. I will replace the condenser and also the orifice and than recharge the system and drive it for a few days and than re-check for leaks just to make sure this truck is ready for the Hot days. Thanks guys for your help.