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1997 K2500 454 Rough Idle, Loud Afterfire

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Old Nov 7, 2019 | 8:18 PM
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Default 1997 K2500 454 Rough Idle, Loud Afterfire

I have a '97 K2500 with the 454. Simply put, it doesn't idle right. When I start it up cold, it revs up to 2000 RPM, slowly settles to idle, and then either abruptly dies or practically dies before roaring right back up and going through it again. In order to keep it on I hold the gas slightly or rev it continuously. It's more likely to stall when cold, but it can happen pretty much anytime it idles. If I let it idle, and then put a small load on the engine (steer or jam brakes or put it into gear) without revving it'll also die, so making K turns is a nightmare.
2nd problem is the afterfire. It makes incredibly loud pops out the tailpipe irregularly - sometimes it'll just keep on popping, sometimes nothing and then a loud bang. The pops don't sound good and regular, but are completely random and never "in sync" with the engine's sound. It's actually so loud it wakes up my family in the morning. The afterfire is a lot more frequent when cold, but sometimes happens when it's warm. Sometimes holding the engine at 1500 RPM is the only way to get it to stop popping, sometimes that's the only speed at which it'll pop. Sometimes it even feels like the engine is getting robbed of power until the pops stop - I'll put the pedal down, and as soon as the pops stop, the truck gets an extra 'oomph'. Might just be a perfectly timed upshift, but maybe not.

For some background, I replaced the head gaskets, intake gaskets, & exhaust gaskets. After that fix, it didn't run right, and my mechanic adjusted the distributor and tightened the pushrod rocker bolts. After that, it ran great for a few days, until the pops started, and it's been getting worse and worse (might just be winter rolling in?). My tailpipes have holes everywhere, and the flange where the front exhaust pipe meets the rear (under the cab) has a good 1/4" gap. My EGR hose is disconnected - when I took off the intake manifold I had to lift the whole thing up and rotate it to free it, and I forgot to put it back that way. I used to have the hose stuck into the port where it should go and wrapped in aluminum tape, but it didn't hold well and the engine was quite hard to start. So I taped off the EGR hose, as well as the port on the intake, and now it starts better (until it dies ).
I've heard elsewhere that exhaust has enough fuel to burn, but due to a lack of oxygen it doesn't, so could it just be the holes? I don't want to get a new set of tailpipes and then have them blow apart because it wasn't the problem.
Any clues as to what might be the issue(s)?
Sorry for the long post, just wanted to make sure I got the whole picture laid out.
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Old Nov 8, 2019 | 6:37 AM
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It's likely that you have a bad AIR pump diverter valve or check valve. Those things will start popping if there is any unburned hydrocarbons in the exhaust. Probably need to put new distributor cap and rotor and new wires in that 454.Might even be a now defective coil as well.
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Old Nov 8, 2019 | 7:18 AM
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Where would I find those valves, and how can I check if they're the problem?
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Old Nov 8, 2019 | 7:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Manu
Where would I find those valves, and how can I check if they're the problem?
They are located in the AIR smog system lines that enter your exhaust manifold to keep exhaust gas from backing up into the smog pump. On a V8 there will be two of them.

The idea was that adding atmo to the exiting burned gases as they left the cylinder, would reduce emissions, and in fact it does, but it eats up power too. The problem is that the pump intake usually never come with an kind of air filter, so dirty dust-filled air is sent into the system, and it only partially cleaned by the centrifugal plastic blades on the A.I.R, pump..If you are in dusty or sandy conditions, your AIR pump wont last that long with all the dust going into the system.I know. as I've changed out lots of smog pumps.
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Old Nov 9, 2019 | 5:31 PM
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think I have any AIR system or smog pump in my truck. On the engine belt I see a crankshaft pulley, power steering pump, a/c compressor, alternator, tensioner pulley, and a small wheel not connected to anything (picture attached, alternator is on the left), which I assume is just for routing the engine belt correctly. If I don't have the system, what could be causing my issues?

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Old Nov 9, 2019 | 6:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Manu
Correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think I have any AIR system or smog pump in my truck. On the engine belt I see a crankshaft pulley, power steering pump, a/c compressor, alternator, tensioner pulley, and a small wheel not connected to anything (picture attached, alternator is on the left), which I assume is just for routing the engine belt correctly. If I don't have the system, what could be causing my issues?

Glad you don't have the AIR pump! Those things are nasty. It came up on my search for a 97 454 engine, but it was mistaken. I will do a search and see what I can find and post it here..
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Old Nov 9, 2019 | 9:01 PM
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Originally Posted by oilcanhenry
Glad you don't have the AIR pump! Those things are nasty. It came up on my search for a 97 454 engine, but it was mistaken. I will do a search and see what I can find and post it here..
Thanks!
As of now I think it's either the exhaust pipes or the EGR system. Tomorrow I'm going to tape over all of the exhaust's holes to see if it helps at all.
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Old Nov 10, 2019 | 11:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Manu
Thanks!
As of now I think it's either the exhaust pipes or the EGR system. Tomorrow I'm going to tape over all of the exhaust's holes to see if it helps at all.
Taped up the exhaust. Didn't help in the slightest.
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Old Nov 11, 2019 | 2:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Manu
Taped up the exhaust. Didn't help in the slightest.
Either air is getting into your exhaust, along with some fuel or it couldn't backfire like that. I'd check the exhaust manifolds for leaks or cracks. After that I'd do a compression test on the engine..
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