Ok sounds good. I meant ecm by Connect the wire that I removed to do timing.

 

I thought that’s what you meant but wanted to be sure.

It’s possible the crankcase vapors are affecting the air fuel mix enough that the engine can’t stay running on its own, but once the spark control circuit is connected again, the ECM can compensate for the change and keep the engine running.

I’d still recommend doing a compression test with the engine up to temperature to see how well the cylinders are sealed.

And since you’ve had it running, it may be useful to try pulling codes again.

 

That wire was actually old clutch line. So what I did was cover pcv return port with wet vac filter for now cuz it doesn't run good when i cover the port hole but runs nice with filter over it. Can that hurt anything?

 

For the time being, no it won’t hurt anything, but you may want to direct the PCV hose into a catch can of some sort just to keep blow by from coating the engine bay.

Stalling with the PCV port plugged suggests inadequate air flow so I’m thinking the IAC isn’t functioning or adjusted correctly. I thought you mentioned it didn’t seem to be working a while back - have you checked its operation recently?

 

I haven't had chance to check iac yet but it runs good and my biggest issue now is it wont go into gear when running. I think air in line or free play in clutch. It is over 3" before the pedal starts to press master cylinder but I dont see adjustments on the rod under dash. It has a new master clutch cylinder and slave cylinder also new line.

 

I think 1 1/2" free play is more correct. When I removed master clutch cylinder and pressed cylinder by hand it has good resistance and didn't feel soft at all.

 

You can’t really use hand pressure as an accurate “measuring stick” for clutch feel. Depending on the application, most clutches have to be able to produce 2,000 - 4,000 pounds of force (spread over the whole disc-to-flywheel contact surface) to adequately grip the flywheel.

Even with a hydraulically operated clutch and the mechanical advantage of the fork, the input force from the slave cylinder needs to be at least a few hundred pounds to release the pressure plate. Even assuming there’s some air in the circuit, hand pressure alone isn’t going to be able to compress it.

A hydraulic clutch needs to feel just like a brake pedal when it’s properly bled - the movement of the pressure plate can make this difficult to judge, so the easiest way to check operation is to pull the inspection plate on the trans and watch the physical movement of the pressure plate while a helper pumps the pedal. First check it with the engine off - if it looks like it’s releasing, get the drive wheels off the ground (all wheels if 4x4, just in case) and then check the movement again with the engine running. If you can see the clutch disc spinning when the pedal is pressed, either air is trapped in the circuit or something is mechanically preventing the clutch from disengaging, in which case you’ll likely have to pull the trans for further inspection.

I’ve found this to be the most effective and easiest way to bleed hydraulic clutches with an external slave cylinder:

1) Remove cap from master cylinder and extract enough fluid to set it at minimum level (prevents over flowing).

2) Remove slave cylinder mounting bolts/nuts.

3) Hold slave cylinder vertically so the line is on top/above the piston.

4) Slowly pump the slave cylinder piston as far as it will go while a helper watches for air bubbles. If a helper isn’t available, only pump it 2 or 3 times and then check the fluid level to see if it’s lower than when you started. Top off as needed.

5) Pump at least 2 more times once no more air bubbles are seen.

6) Mount slave cylinder, top off reservoir, and recheck pedal feel/clutch operation.

Good to hear you’re making progress.

 

Ok thank you I will give that a try

 

How goes the battle?

 

Thanks for checking up on me. It runs great but clutch still has around 2" or 3" of free play before any engagement is felt after trying every suggestion or methods. It's a new master clutch cylinder from napa and new line new slave so I feel clutch pedal rod isnt long enough at start point for it but idk.