My next move was to try removing master cylinder and depressing it with a clamp or by hand to feel if it has free play at all.

 

Is the bushing for the clutch pedal push rod loose or missing? What about any bushings where the pedal mounts to the bracket? That could account for some of the free play.

It may also help to disconnect the push rod from the pedal and see if it feels like it’s not centered on the piston.

It’s been a long time since I’ve looked at or serviced a pre-1990 clutch but I don’t recall the push rods having any kind of adjustment (though I could be mistaken), so if there’s no play between the push rod and piston, and all the pedal bushings are in good shape, it’s either air is still trapped in the system or there’s something mechanically wrong with the pressure plate, fork or throw out bearing that’s causing the excess travel.

One thing you can try is to adapt a manual vacuum pump to the clutch reservoir and pull 5-10 in-Hg of vacuum on it overnight. As long as it’s holding vacuum, any trapped air should work it’s way out. This will be evident if the fluid level is lower than when you started. You can also slowly depress the clutch pedal with vacuum on it - just make sure the fluid level is low enough that it doesn’t get sucked into the vacuum pump.

 

Thanks for all the tips and suggestions I will get a chance to look at it soon and report back.

 

I had so many projects and got overloaded but I did buy another clutch bleeding tool pneumatic brake bleeder. I had no luck bleeding before winter but its probably air. Seems like I see constant bubbles forever. I re read your last number of posts and I assume inspection plate is at front of engine around starter?

 

The inspection plate position depends on the transmission, but it’s usually located on the bottom of the bell housing - it’s just a piece of sheet metal that’s either held in place with one bolt or it snaps into place. Some are rectangular and some are round.

Some transmissions of this era have a 2 piece bell housing that’s removable for inspection and service. The lower portion is held on with 6 bolts and there’s 2 engine-to-trans stabilizer links (steel rod) that bolt to the cover. The engine end of the links only need to be loosened so the links can be rotated out of the way.

 

Thanks for your help. I got the truck to move and it was play between the master slave cylinder and the clutch pedal rod preventing going into gear. so I made a spacer from a c clamp works great now the next obstacle is getting it into 4x4 cuz the lever is seized.