Thanks for the help I hope I can finish the thread with a running truck. I get to work on it today if thunderstorms stay away.

 

So it's still close to start but doing the same weird fire #1 plug wire every 4th revolution of crank. I decided to check my work and #3 cylinder went from 0 compression before I fixed valve to 60lbs of compression similar to most of the cylinders.

 

One thing I remember 6 yrs ago when truck quit there was a wire on firewall block and 3 orange wires so I assumed it got unhooked so I hooked it back up. I can't seem to find a picture of a proper firewall wiring to the junction block of the orange wires. Wiring schematic isnt helping me.

 

You will have to physically trace them

 

This is how mine looks now

 

I’m curious - when you’re doing the compression test, are you propping open the throttle plates?

Although the compression improved significantly, it’s still not that good - as a general rule, 100 PSI is the acceptable minimum - but that’s also assuming a warm engine and no obstructions. If the throttle plates were closed for the test, that could be why.

IMO I don’t think there’s any reason why the computer controls need to be pursued at this point. You have spark, and you’ve said before that the injectors are spraying fuel while cranking - both of which indicate the ECM is functional.

Assuming the TPS, IAC or other components such as the EGR are problematic, the engine should at least start and either immediately die, idle like crap, or require working the throttle to stay running.

Perhaps try propping the throttle plates open “just a smidge” while cranking and see what happens.

Also, I apologize but I meant to post this when I asked about the grooves in the crank pulley, just in case you weren’t sure which mark was 0.

 

That was with plates closed and 5 cylinders with plugs just for a quick roll. I tried opening plates seems less trying to start. Thanks for timing picture I have it timed at 0. Sometimes it will fire the timing light every 2nd revolution and other times every 4th.

I also notice the plugs seem dry after cranking even though fuel spraying. Most engines I ever seen on a no start plugs are soaked

 

It has a new egr valve and I also have a new iac valve I can try. I put restore in it to try to raise compression once its running.

 

It's a standard so I I definitely thought of dragging it around with another truck or jacking the rear end up wrapping rear rim with rope for a hi speed pull start with 4 wheeler to let restore work.

 

Omg it started I believe it was a bad coolant temperature sensor