88 Cheyenne k1500 4.3L no start no scan
Yeah just tape it off or zip tie it in a way to keep it from grounding out accidentally - no need to cut the wire.
Questions/Suggestions (sorry if these have been discussed previously - I don’t have time to read back through everything right now).
1) Do you think you can post a video or audio clip of the engine as it’s turning over? 5-10 seconds of hearing it cranking would help me get an idea if there’s other mechanical problems to inspect for.
2) Have you tried cranking the engine with the distributor cap off to see if the rotor is turning at a constant rate? If there’s an uneven rate of rotation, the timing chain and/or cam are suspect.
3) Have you done any testing/inspection at the ECM? It’s behind the dash on the far right side - it’s visible and can be removed once the glove box is out. Rodents like to nest in this area, so the wiring is always subject to damage if that occurs. Don’t let a lack of “rodent smell” fool you either - I’ve found nests in customer trucks that are well taken care of - a rodent can build a nest overnight and be scared off the next day when the truck is started, but the damage is already done.
Even if there’s no rodent or wiring damage, remove the ECM (disconnect negative battery cable first) and open the case. Inspect the circuit board for burn marks and leaking capacitors - for the technology of the time, it wasn’t unheard of for the capacitors to start leaking after several years. If you find any, an electronics repair shop in your area should be more than capable of replacing them for minimal cost.
Questions/Suggestions (sorry if these have been discussed previously - I don’t have time to read back through everything right now).
1) Do you think you can post a video or audio clip of the engine as it’s turning over? 5-10 seconds of hearing it cranking would help me get an idea if there’s other mechanical problems to inspect for.
2) Have you tried cranking the engine with the distributor cap off to see if the rotor is turning at a constant rate? If there’s an uneven rate of rotation, the timing chain and/or cam are suspect.
3) Have you done any testing/inspection at the ECM? It’s behind the dash on the far right side - it’s visible and can be removed once the glove box is out. Rodents like to nest in this area, so the wiring is always subject to damage if that occurs. Don’t let a lack of “rodent smell” fool you either - I’ve found nests in customer trucks that are well taken care of - a rodent can build a nest overnight and be scared off the next day when the truck is started, but the damage is already done.
Even if there’s no rodent or wiring damage, remove the ECM (disconnect negative battery cable first) and open the case. Inspect the circuit board for burn marks and leaking capacitors - for the technology of the time, it wasn’t unheard of for the capacitors to start leaking after several years. If you find any, an electronics repair shop in your area should be more than capable of replacing them for minimal cost.
Thanks for the great ideas. It wont let me post a video here but maybe I can put a video on YouTube.etc cuz I think it would find problem easier. Weird that the timing light will flash every 2nd timing Mark then every 4th then 2nd.
Now that I watch the videos I need to tighten and fix the black with pink stripe wire that isnt firmly crimped tight on firewall. I notice when my kido hit key starter took a bit to kick and I believe when I look at wiring schematic that pink black wire also controls ecm stuff.
I’m having trouble getting the video to play on my phone right now so I’ll have to watch it on my laptop tonight.
The pink/black wire is an ignition feed for several components including the ECM. The corrosion isn’t helping but it doesn’t look that bad either (unless it’s worse in other places) - replacing the eyelet and making sure it has a good crimp should be sufficient for continuing diagnosis.
Check for battery voltage with the key on - if it’s within 0.5 volts consider it “good enough for now” and then cut the end off to get some fresh copper for the new eyelet.
The pink/black wire is an ignition feed for several components including the ECM. The corrosion isn’t helping but it doesn’t look that bad either (unless it’s worse in other places) - replacing the eyelet and making sure it has a good crimp should be sufficient for continuing diagnosis.
Check for battery voltage with the key on - if it’s within 0.5 volts consider it “good enough for now” and then cut the end off to get some fresh copper for the new eyelet.
Last edited by Gumby22; Jun 10, 2021 at 12:16 PM.





