88 Cheyenne k1500 4.3L no start no scan
If it’s from a critter at all I’d expect it’s a cockroach - I don’t think snakeskin is that tough. 
Clean up the seat and valve, then put the valve back in the head - before installing the spring and keepers, rotate the valve while watching the seat to check for wobbling - if you don’t see anything, repeat the test using a flashlight from the port side and inspect for light coming from between the valve and seat. If light shines through, replace the valve.

Clean up the seat and valve, then put the valve back in the head - before installing the spring and keepers, rotate the valve while watching the seat to check for wobbling - if you don’t see anything, repeat the test using a flashlight from the port side and inspect for light coming from between the valve and seat. If light shines through, replace the valve.
So I got it all back together cylinder head fixed but it still wont run although closer to running. I notice the timing light isnt firing every 2nd revolution of the crankshaft always. It will go off every 4th revolution sometimes and every 2nd revolution other times? That's odd.
I did find the june beetle looking critter that stuck the valve open when I removed head. I water tested the head as well before installing.
So my plan is to try my old distributor to try to get consistent spark every 2nd revolution of crank but plz let me know if you have any other ideas.
So my plan is to try my old distributor to try to get consistent spark every 2nd revolution of crank but plz let me know if you have any other ideas.
Good to hear you got it reassembled.
Did you have the spark control connector unplugged (the single wire connector on the main harness by the firewall) while checking? The PCM might be adjusting the spark timing if it’s still plugged in.
Did you have the spark control connector unplugged (the single wire connector on the main harness by the firewall) while checking? The PCM might be adjusting the spark timing if it’s still plugged in.
In that case, try disconnecting the white wire from the ignition coil. That’s the feed for the tach and a short to ground on the tach circuit can give the coil a secondary path to ground. Even if it’s not equipped with a tach the wire would be run up into the cab and then blunt cut close to the cluster.
IIRC the wire isn’t too difficult to remove from the connector but you can always cut it and splice it later.
IIRC the wire isn’t too difficult to remove from the connector but you can always cut it and splice it later.
If it is tied to another wire that disappears into the harness, cut the wire on the harness side of the connector and tape the stub with the connector, that way you can still check for a tach signal in the future if needed.
I’m going to be looking at the service manual/wiring diagram in a little while and will post with some more ideas.




