New fluid recommendations for trans, transfer and live axles.
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CF Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 79
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From: Raleigh, NC
New fluid recommendations for trans, transfer and live axles.
Hey fellow Chevy guys,
I'm planning on replacing all my fluids, filters and gaskets (where needed) for my transmission, transfer case and live axels. I have a '01 1500 4wd Silverado 4.8 liter. I figured you guys know what's the best stuff to go with, how much I need and know the tricks of the trade in this service.
Thanks in advance for any advice!!
I'm planning on replacing all my fluids, filters and gaskets (where needed) for my transmission, transfer case and live axels. I have a '01 1500 4wd Silverado 4.8 liter. I figured you guys know what's the best stuff to go with, how much I need and know the tricks of the trade in this service.
Thanks in advance for any advice!!
Last edited by clanofwolves; Sep 21, 2021 at 8:37 AM.
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 1,578
Likes: 302
From: Central Iowa
Your owners manual should confirm the specific fluids you need on the “Capacities and Specifications” page.
The only thing I’d recommend GM specific fluid for is the transfer case; otherwise it’s your preference.
As far as gear oil goes any house brand will do fine.
However if the rear axle is a limited slip, make sure to put limited slip additive in it as well OR get GM fluid because it already has additive in it. For limited slip diffs, find an empty parking lot and perform 5 complete full circles at idle speed, left and right, to help work the new fluid into the clutch packs.
Front axle - 80W90
Rear axle - 75W90
Both diffs hold 2-3 quarts each. It will help completely drain them to get the wheels off the ground and spin them. Doing the same will help fill them completely as well.
While you’re at it, remove the vent hoses and make sure they’re clear with a quick blast of compressed air. Clean the vent fittings too.
On the front diff - If the vent fitting is the type that’s the large plastic cap on the side of the case, unscrew it to remove and thoroughly clean with brake parts cleaner or hot water and dish soap - dry with compressed air. You can reuse the o-ring if it’s not damaged. Tighten down snug.
Transfer Case - GM auto trac II - 2.0 quarts - Helps to flush the bottom of the case with brake parts cleaner through the fill plug hole.
Transmission - Dexron VI or equivalent
Filter service only requires about 6.0 quarts - total system capacity is 11.0 quarts.
If you’re planning on a complete system fluid replacement and are unsure of the last time the fluid has been replaced (or know it’s overdue), I’d recommend a drain and fill process as opposed to a running flush.
What you do is drop the pan for the initial filter and fluid replacement, then go drive it; then drop the pan again only to replace the fluid (unless there’s a drain plug). It’s more time consuming and requires up to 50% more fluid to completely flush the system but, IMO, it’s more effective because traditional flushing methods don’t allow for shifting and gear selection while the flush is active. The use of cleaners (Seafoam Trans Tune, for example) is at your discretion but if you haven’t been experiencing any transmission problems then it’s probably not needed.
The only thing I’d recommend GM specific fluid for is the transfer case; otherwise it’s your preference.
As far as gear oil goes any house brand will do fine.
However if the rear axle is a limited slip, make sure to put limited slip additive in it as well OR get GM fluid because it already has additive in it. For limited slip diffs, find an empty parking lot and perform 5 complete full circles at idle speed, left and right, to help work the new fluid into the clutch packs.
Front axle - 80W90
Rear axle - 75W90
Both diffs hold 2-3 quarts each. It will help completely drain them to get the wheels off the ground and spin them. Doing the same will help fill them completely as well.
While you’re at it, remove the vent hoses and make sure they’re clear with a quick blast of compressed air. Clean the vent fittings too.
On the front diff - If the vent fitting is the type that’s the large plastic cap on the side of the case, unscrew it to remove and thoroughly clean with brake parts cleaner or hot water and dish soap - dry with compressed air. You can reuse the o-ring if it’s not damaged. Tighten down snug.
Transfer Case - GM auto trac II - 2.0 quarts - Helps to flush the bottom of the case with brake parts cleaner through the fill plug hole.
Transmission - Dexron VI or equivalent
Filter service only requires about 6.0 quarts - total system capacity is 11.0 quarts.
If you’re planning on a complete system fluid replacement and are unsure of the last time the fluid has been replaced (or know it’s overdue), I’d recommend a drain and fill process as opposed to a running flush.
What you do is drop the pan for the initial filter and fluid replacement, then go drive it; then drop the pan again only to replace the fluid (unless there’s a drain plug). It’s more time consuming and requires up to 50% more fluid to completely flush the system but, IMO, it’s more effective because traditional flushing methods don’t allow for shifting and gear selection while the flush is active. The use of cleaners (Seafoam Trans Tune, for example) is at your discretion but if you haven’t been experiencing any transmission problems then it’s probably not needed.
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