Pitman arm nightmare!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#1
Pitman arm nightmare!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hi guys
So im having a pitman arm nightmare. Ill try to tell a short version to the point, but not sure thats possble.
-Note that I got the truck aligned after each time I replaced parts, and everything was torqued to spec (50 ft-lbs for relay rod to pitman arm nut).
-Note: late 99 silverado 1500 4wd 5.3, 225k miles
One year ago (april 2016) I had a shop install a cheap pitman/idler/bracket I got on ebay.
It was bad a year later (jan 2016 and probably well before that too).
The truck has 225k so I figured save money towards a new truck. So I got a mid grade (driveline) set (pitman/idler/bracket) from advanced auto.
Pitman had play (to relay rod) within a week.
Returned driveline pitman/idler/bracket and bought all three in MOOG.
Pitman had a tiny bit of play upon install!!!!
Thinking my relay rod could be worn out, I bought a MOOG relay rod.
It was finally tight. I rejoiced!!
A week later the pitman had play again!!!!!!!
This time I tore it all down. Upon disconnecting the outer tie rods I realized that one knuckle was MUCH harder to turn by hand that the other. Figured I had a stuck ball joint which was putting extra force on the pitman arm.
SO, I replaced the following: inner tie rods (duralast), CV axles (advanced auto house brand), and the following in ALL MOOG: pitman/idler/bracket, outer tie rods, wheel bearing hub assembly’s, lower ball joints, and upper ball joints with control arm and new bushings.
At this point I didn’t care what was causing the issue, I was just happy to put it to rest.
Drove straight to town fair tire for an alignment (5-6 miles maybe).
Picked it up and drove home and immediately my drivers side front tire was making a ton of noise. The noise is loudest at 35-45 mph. I went back and had it checked and they said they couldn’t find any issue. they say its because the tires are a bit chopped due to all the driving with bad parts. yes thats correct, but this is much louder than that. its atleast 3 times louder than it ever was in the past 10 years (the tires at least).
Drove it 2 more days. Had a buddy shake the drivers side wheel and AGAIN there is play in the pitman arm to relay rod connection.
I certainly learned a lot, and i can now replace a pitman arm in under 30 minutes, but I just don’t know what to do at this point…
I was hoping to make the truck last 3 more years or so but im nearly forced to get a new truck at this point….
HELP!!!
So im having a pitman arm nightmare. Ill try to tell a short version to the point, but not sure thats possble.
-Note that I got the truck aligned after each time I replaced parts, and everything was torqued to spec (50 ft-lbs for relay rod to pitman arm nut).
-Note: late 99 silverado 1500 4wd 5.3, 225k miles
One year ago (april 2016) I had a shop install a cheap pitman/idler/bracket I got on ebay.
It was bad a year later (jan 2016 and probably well before that too).
The truck has 225k so I figured save money towards a new truck. So I got a mid grade (driveline) set (pitman/idler/bracket) from advanced auto.
Pitman had play (to relay rod) within a week.
Returned driveline pitman/idler/bracket and bought all three in MOOG.
Pitman had a tiny bit of play upon install!!!!
Thinking my relay rod could be worn out, I bought a MOOG relay rod.
It was finally tight. I rejoiced!!
A week later the pitman had play again!!!!!!!
This time I tore it all down. Upon disconnecting the outer tie rods I realized that one knuckle was MUCH harder to turn by hand that the other. Figured I had a stuck ball joint which was putting extra force on the pitman arm.
SO, I replaced the following: inner tie rods (duralast), CV axles (advanced auto house brand), and the following in ALL MOOG: pitman/idler/bracket, outer tie rods, wheel bearing hub assembly’s, lower ball joints, and upper ball joints with control arm and new bushings.
At this point I didn’t care what was causing the issue, I was just happy to put it to rest.
Drove straight to town fair tire for an alignment (5-6 miles maybe).
Picked it up and drove home and immediately my drivers side front tire was making a ton of noise. The noise is loudest at 35-45 mph. I went back and had it checked and they said they couldn’t find any issue. they say its because the tires are a bit chopped due to all the driving with bad parts. yes thats correct, but this is much louder than that. its atleast 3 times louder than it ever was in the past 10 years (the tires at least).
Drove it 2 more days. Had a buddy shake the drivers side wheel and AGAIN there is play in the pitman arm to relay rod connection.
I certainly learned a lot, and i can now replace a pitman arm in under 30 minutes, but I just don’t know what to do at this point…
I was hoping to make the truck last 3 more years or so but im nearly forced to get a new truck at this point….
HELP!!!
#4
#5
http://vid821.photobucket.com/albums...pshmjbojh0.mp4
yes im talking about center link to pitman joint. i bought a steering box yesterday im hoping thats whats killing them??? going to install tomorrow (sunday april 22). would love a confirmation first.
#6
i am with you on wanting zero play on steering linkage.
not sure what i can suggest as you have replaced everything. gm does have a spec in the service manual for allowable movement for the pitman to centerlink/relay rod for this vehicle. Its 1.0mm or 0.039" measured on the pitman arm with the a dial indicator clamped to the centerlink.
retorque the ball stud nut and measure it.
not sure what i can suggest as you have replaced everything. gm does have a spec in the service manual for allowable movement for the pitman to centerlink/relay rod for this vehicle. Its 1.0mm or 0.039" measured on the pitman arm with the a dial indicator clamped to the centerlink.
retorque the ball stud nut and measure it.
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#8
well the steering box and another pitman arm are in. i got it aligned and it seems better. pitman is still tight after 3 days, we'll see how long it lasts this time... tires make noise because they are chopped. much quieter than before though.