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Power lock problem

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Old Apr 22, 2020 | 7:39 PM
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Default Power lock problem

New member, need some help
i recently bought a 2000 Silverado z71 with 190k and was very well taken care of. Only thing is I’m having a problem with the power locks. I press the lock/unlock on either side and the indicator barely moves. If I press it again it goes even slower. Press a few more times and it eventually stops. I get 12v to the switch and the output when the button is pushed. 12v to the actuator even. What could be the problem?

pic of said truck

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Old Apr 23, 2020 | 1:16 AM
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https://chevroletforum.com/forum/cob...s-weak-100126/
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Old Apr 23, 2020 | 6:59 AM
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Originally Posted by mountainmanjoe
so the actuators need to be replaced?
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Old Apr 23, 2020 | 6:52 PM
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It might be the actuators but you can try removing the door panels and lubing the linkages and latches first. Even with well cared for vehicles, the latches and linkages can dry up and cause drag.

WD40 or equivalent will work for the latches. The linkage rods might be clipped into some plastic brackets between the latch and lock at the handle. If so, pop them out of the bracket (complete removal not necessary), clean them off, and apply a light coat of white lithium grease.

If that doesn’t help, first verify the wiring is in tact. The section that passes through the boot in the door jamb is most susceptible to failure, so performing a loaded voltage drop test using a test light to monitor the circuit is easiest while you perform a wiggle test on the harness. You’ll have to disconnect the harness from underneath the dash in order to provide constant power on the circuit.
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Old Apr 23, 2020 | 8:01 PM
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Originally Posted by RNG
so the actuators need to be replaced?
Take the switch out of the drivers door, clean it , and clean it with a q tip alcohol on all the contact points. Save about $150 .
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Old Apr 23, 2020 | 9:29 PM
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Originally Posted by kevinkpk
Take the switch out of the drivers door, clean it , and clean it with a q tip alcohol on all the contact points. Save about $150 .
I’ll give it a try but it’s getting 12v to all the correct wires.
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Old Apr 23, 2020 | 9:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Gumby22
It might be the actuators but you can try removing the door panels and lubing the linkages and latches first. Even with well cared for vehicles, the latches and linkages can dry up and cause drag.

WD40 or equivalent will work for the latches. The linkage rods might be clipped into some plastic brackets between the latch and lock at the handle. If so, pop them out of the bracket (complete removal not necessary), clean them off, and apply a light coat of white lithium grease.

If that doesn’t help, first verify the wiring is in tact. The section that passes through the boot in the door jamb is most susceptible to failure, so performing a loaded voltage drop test using a test light to monitor the circuit is easiest while you perform a wiggle test on the harness. You’ll have to disconnect the harness from underneath the dash in order to provide constant power on the circuit.
12v with no drop when button is pressed. Don’t think that’s the issue
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Old Apr 24, 2020 | 12:44 AM
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Originally Posted by RNG
12v with no drop when button is pressed. Don’t think that’s the issue
I understand, but you’re checking voltage, not current. A wire can have a single strand left in tact and still read 12 volts but not be able to provide enough current flow to operate a component. Using a test light and wiggle testing confirms with certainty the harness is in tact and it takes maybe 10 minutes to set it up.

The symptoms you describe could be the result of failing actuators but they can also be the result of insufficient current flow.

I don’t know how common it is for the wire harnesses to break inside the boots, but I’ve seen enough of them fail (on all makes - not just GM) to know that it needs to be checked before anything on the door is replaced.

Do you really want to replace the actuators only to find that doesn’t fix the problem?
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