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2008 silverado 1500 big problems.

Old February 20th, 2016, 1:31 PM
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Default Shifting issue

Replacing/repairing the battery cable connectors will take care of anything in your truck that requires 12 volts to operate. You'll be surprised how much better
everything in your truck will function with this easy fix.
Good luck
Carl
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Old March 26th, 2016, 2:47 PM
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Default "Unsafe at any speed"

Help me please! My 2008 sierra with 60k miles exhibits random intermittent electrical problems that started around 30k miles… and are possibly going to get me killed. I am a newbie to this forum and will try to be as thorough as possible….
First incident driving across the barren nevada desert. 70mph on the highway pulling a horse trailer. trying to find something worth while on XM radio… when the radio shuts off, then a moment later the door chime begins dinging, then the door locks repeatedly lock and unlock, and it feels as though the engine died, I have no power and am in the middle of nowhere...And then just as suddenly, all the dinging and door locking just stops. the radio begins playing and when i put my foot on the accelerator the truck responds… So I keep driving. (I am bewildered by the whole experience and after 100 or so miles of thinking about it, I conclude that the experience has more to do with area 51 than my favorite new truck… i keep driving.)
We arrive at our destination and i continue to use the truck for a few days and then leave it in the parking lot for for a few more. I hop in the truck to head home and it won’t start. completely dead. not even an interior light. We get a jumpstart from security and we are told to "not stop until we get home to Arizona”… and we don’t turn the truck off for 299 miles.

Once home we replaced the battery as directed and things were fine for a while. Then the “haunting" starts again… after a few similar incidents, i notice the clock also resets to 12:00, service air bag light , service stabilitrac light all come on while it is happening. I start developing theories about the cause. Possibly the turn signal or turning the steering wheel. But whatever it is I can’t get it to do it in front of any of the mechanics i take it to so they have no way to figure it out. The dealership service department tells me they have never heard of anything like this happening to anyone.
My mother and I set out to pick up a horse 2 hours out of town. Everything was going just fine. until we hit a steep hill and to be courteous we signal to change lanes and get out of the way. then we here it the ding ding, terror sets in as the cd tray hums and grinds looking to load a cd, the dash lights flash, and the truck dies as we are doing 70 up a hill with semi trucks all around. luckily we are able to make it onto the loose gravel shoulder of the road without getting killed … on the side of the road we thank the powers that be for sparing us a a fiery death of twisted metal and angry truckers. We try to start a couple times unsuccessfuly but on the third try- it fires up as if nothing had ever happened. So we drive on. what the hell we figure, "we’ve got onstar” and we drove on. To the only farm located in a valley surrounded by mountains. The farm owners had an appointment so we said our goodbyes as we loaded the horse. Alone in a beautiful albeit desolate valley. get in the truck and it won’t start. we push the button to call onstar… nothing… push it again and wait… nothing. This is when we begin to realize just how dangerous this “haunting" could be. What a false sense of security we had. What a bill of goods Onstar and GM had sold us.
I was under the impression that if i had trouble or an accident all i had to do was push the button to hear a reassuring voice "Onstar, how can we help”

It never occurred to me that if the battery was dead there is no button. No voice. No help. Or ...had we been smashed between to semis as we struggled to get off the road because the truck had died while doing 70 and semi trucks were trying to pass…. … not only would onstar not work… the airbags wouldn’t deploy.
In a previous forum someone suggested changing the battery cable. So I did that. Even though the dealership told me the OEM battery cables were perfectly fine, although they couldn’t explain why they had changed the design….
Ive purchased new batteries and had the alternator checked.

So here is where I am at. I know from this and other forums we are not alone in these issues and there has to be a solution. We have always owned GM products and have a lot of money invested in this truck. At this point we are terrified to drive this deathtrap with 60k miles. As someone once said it is “unsafe at any speed”
Old March 27th, 2016, 1:59 PM
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Replacing/repairing the battery cable connectors will take care of anything in your truck that requires 12 volts to operate. You'll be surprised how much better
everything in your truck will function with this easy fix.Im certain the problem you're having is due to the battery cable connectors, (the devise on the end of each battery cable that connects the cable to the battery.)
I believe that both connectors should be replaced since the problem is with the crimp on the connectors that were made at the factory. My electrical problems started at 60,000 miles and was identical to yours. I replaced both battery cable connectors and haven't a problem since,
Good luck
Carl
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Old April 13th, 2016, 1:24 PM
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I'm having same problem. Replaced battery beginning of winter and alternator last week. Still doing it but when I replaced the battery this wasn't happening. Only cause it needed to be replaced.
Old June 11th, 2016, 6:41 PM
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Thanks for the repair thread on this problem, I have a 2007 Silverado (bought new) that started experiencing electrical problems in 2010 with the door locks locking & unlocking, gauges flipping back and forth, cd's shuffling with no CD's and clock resetting to 1200.,oh and the AC turning on in the winter. Took it into the dealer under extended warranty said it was the radio...not covered under warranty..so ok 100.00 fix it...picked it up the next day and on the way home locks flipping up & down,gauges flashing..loss of power...next exit back to the dealer..pulled in & shut her down, they came out to pull it in and no power...left it with them for almost a Month...said they were getting a bad fuel pump reading so changed it out and the pos & neg cables and the Mega Fuse...no issues for a six month period after that. Starting to get the gremlins back again with clock resetting/ac turning on and sometimes no power when I stop someplace an then go back to get in the truck so now I'm looking at doing the connector end fix for the cables but also maybe go to a 4 gauge pos & neg cable. There are enough individuals with these Chevrolet vehicles having these electrical problems that GM should own up to their errors and not make everyone research the problem on their own...Big Shame To the GM Corp on this one for not standing by their claim of LIKE A ROCK !!!!!
Old March 12th, 2017, 7:44 AM
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Default Please help cgetatme@hotmail.com

Originally Posted by Finback
I finally found the problem with my truck. The factory positive battery cable was faulted inside the crimp. The flickering door locks and other gremlins progressively got worse. Finally the truck wouldn't start and I checked the voltage at the battery (12.68 v.) I only had .4 v. at the mega fuse. The cable end read 12.68 v. also but when I checked the cable where it went into the end it read .4v. I went to Autozone and bought a new end ($3.75). I had to turn the battery around (the stock cable end is elevated to clear the caps). I had plenty of cable on both the negative and positive cable to reach. I ditched the fancy plastic sleeve on the positive cable. When I cut the old terminal apart I found the cable was overheated and couldn't be detected (without x-ray vision). I'm thinking that if you install a jumper from the battery directly to the mega fuse and your problem goes away, this might be your trouble also. Good luck to all. This is a very frustrating problem. I did take some pictures. Send me a message with your email and I'll forward the pics.



i am in need with help about you same
situation please reply
Old January 27th, 2018, 6:18 AM
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Default Thanks Finback

Originally Posted by in2pro
Here are finback's pictures, Thanks finback for sending and sharing..
I may have ended up at the dealer with a new computer, (no that's not it.) Or some shop...change out this that and the other. (Nope, that's not it.) A $3.75 terminal from Walmart. IT'S FIXED! CRISTINA IS GONE! The headlights and dash lights are brighter! My 08 silverado...SHE LIVES AGAIN! A miracle that I saw your post! Thanks again!
Old January 30th, 2018, 6:08 PM
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How did your claim go with GM? I am thinking about doing the same with my 2009.
Old November 14th, 2022, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Tyler.T
Heres a few pics
hey where did you buy the connectors for the battery
Old November 15th, 2022, 7:21 PM
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Default Regards This happened to me too

Originally Posted by blktrk4man
Hi, I have an 08 I purchased dec of 08, had 29000 miles on it, I have only put 6000 miles on it since I bought it and the last two months I have been having the strangest things happen, been to the dealer 3 times with no luck, hoping someone here may have had similiar issues. When driving down the road, out of the blue the power door locks go on and off, dashboard emblems flicker on and off, radio goes on and off, then it comes out of it, then when I go start the truck, theres nothing there, like someone took the battery out of it, wait a few minutes and it starts up fine, this has been going on for 2 months and lastnight it wouldn't start and it still sits there, its going in again to the dealer but I'm pretty much fed up, does anyone have any ideas or similar experience with yours? It acts like a ground but they have checked everything, problem hasn't happened at the dealer which makes it more difficult, hoping now that it won't start they can figure it out. Any advice is appreciated, thanks.
This happened to me too on my 07 silverado .
I found it to corroded fuses and relay sockets in the under hood fuse panel . The fuses looked ok but failed a continuity test , Upon further examination they were corroded in half near the blade of the fuse . A total 6 fuses were replaced and 4 of the relays had badly corroded pins .
I applied “Truck Lite NYK-77” corrosion preventive compound to every pin and socket in that panel with Q-tips . This process cleared several other ghost faults including a most annoying traction control system error .
I hope this helps you out . I found the compound on the internet .
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