XVTer nice write up and pictures... seems you have a lot of corrosion, where about are you located, I'm guessing near the sea or up north where there is a lot of road salts used....

 

Yeah, I live in Newburyport, MA. I get a double-whammy of both road salt and salty air. Everything corrodes around here.

 

Has anyone found the real problem that cause's the door locks to cycle on & off during driving. having to reset clock, all the time gauges going crazy.

 

I fixed mine. It was the positive battery cable end. Inside the crimp was bad. I did post pictures on a previous post. My was doing exactly the same thing. Plus, the traction control light would come on and off. This indicated a common problem with the BCM (body control module) & the TCM (trans. control module) The common thread there is power; not grounding. The only thing that will cause ALL of the symptoms is 1) a broken + post in the battery, 2) a bad cable end (my problem), 3) a bad cable either from the battery to the mega fuse or from the mega fuse to the fuse block, 4) a bad connection at the fuse block or 5) a faulty fuse block. So far the only trouble that has been proven for this symptom is my repair and one other person had a bad battery (I suspect a broken post inside). GM doesn't use these cables anymore (hmmmm....). They changed the design which does cost money (they also go by the adage "If it ain't broke..." so if they spent money there's a reason. I suspect they are well aware of the problem but won't admit it. If they publish it, they own it.

 

Hey I've been reading through all of this post looking for a solution to my problem. I have an 07 sierra z71. 110,000 miles, so the warranty is out. No mods other that new projector headlights, rear led light bar, and interior led lights.
I bought the truck september of 07. By Jan 08 I was already having battery issues. It started when i left my clock display (on the radio, radio powered off.) 3 hours later i came back and the truck would not even roll over. I Contacted the dealership and they tried to blame it on a few mods such as the light bar and a radar detector. 2 years later, after being really careful not to leave the truck on, i replace the battery with an interstate. The battery is a lil less than 3 years old now and I'm having real issues with it again. It takes about 5 hours of park time to drain it now. So this evening, and after reading many of these posts, I install a new optima red top.
I have been noticing that my locks will lock or unlock every so often, but can usually depend on them to cycle every time i open the door after it has been sitting a few minutes. I did find today that my alternator is showing a high ohm reading between the hot on the back of the alternator and ground, so as of now it's disconnected til morning to check for voltage drop and is getting rebuilt over the weekend, but even still, the locks still cycle. I replaced the positive battery post and cleaned the mega fuse (which really didn't look bad.) I'm wondering what else to do. I am still convinced that I still have a short somewhere. I noticed that while tightening the positive cable, and as soon as I accidentally arced to the body, that the locks cycled again. Any other suggestions.

Plus on a side note, I'm having some serious clunk and chatter coming from my drivetrain, and seems to be a bit pulsating. I'm going to pull the diff cover tomorrow and transfer case plug as well in search of metal. It seams to do it now most all of the time, but worse around 40 mph in OD. Doesn't feel like tranny or torque converter shudder. Replaced u-joints last week, all works well there, no slack or stiffness. There is very little vibration in the steering wheel. About 2 months ago I dropped the front axle, replaced the axle seals and lower cv boots. All seems fine there. Any suggestions here...?

 

<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <wontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> This issue could be due to the 175 amp Mega fuse or battery cables (connection, short, corrosion). These are just suggestions, they are not meant as diagnosis.

I recommend an inspection by a certified technician for an official diagnosis and repair option(s).

Please keep us posted.

If you have any additional questions, please feel free to contact me privately.

Louis
GM Customer Service

 

Chevy Sierra, 1500, 2 door. Remote will open passenger side only. Must use the key or physically push lock up to open driver door manually. The remote or automatic switch on driver door will not open the lock. Can anyone help!!

 

<!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <w:PunctuationKerning/> <w:ValidateAgainstSchemas/> <w:SaveIfXMLInvalid>false</w:SaveIfXMLInvalid> <w:IgnoreMixedContent>false</w:IgnoreMixedContent> <w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText>false</w:AlwaysShowPlaceholderText> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <wontGrowAutofit/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:LatentStyles DefLockedState="false" LatentStyleCount="156"> </w:LatentStyles> </xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 10]> <style> /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} </style> <![endif]--> The remote may need to be re-synchronized or they may be an actuator issue. These are just suggestions, it is not a diagnosis. Please consult with a certified technician for an official diagnosis.

Louis
GM Customer Service

 

I have a 2008 GMC Sierra that has been recalled once for an electrical wiring harness and was covered a second time under warranty for an additional electrical problem. Now my truck does a skip start or will not start at all. To get the truck to start I have to wiggle the battery ground wire harness and then the truck will start up. The door locks go up and down widly, radio, temp gauge scrambles out, and the radio always resets to 1200. Sometimes the truck even loses power while driving. I took it back to a GMC dealership(Smith Stokes) and I was told it was the ground wiring harness that hits against the fuse box and frys the fuses. The grounding wire also is bad in the fuse boxes. I was told it will cost at first $875 and could get as high as $3000 depending on how much rewiring needs to be done. I called GMC and filed a claim because this is the third electrical problem I have had in two years. This is not regular wear and tear on the truck it is poor design by GM. They need to right this wrong or I will just trade it in and go back to driving Toyota pickup.

 

My truck started doing the same as yours about a year ago. I changed the battery first and checked fuses etc, etc... Turns out a lot of these trucks have faulty battery cables. The battery lugs are not crimped correctly to the cable and they get dirty and loose connection. With mine it was the positive cable, with some e it's negative. I corrected it with a $2.99 clamp together bolted connector. I wil solder One on when I get the time. It's been about 10. Months and still good. Truck starts quicker than ever.


Any help with my problem above?