Hello all. So this is what’s happening. We just got a bunch of snow so the last two days I’ve been in 4WD for first time in a year. This morning I tried to remote start and I heard it start then die. This is not normal since I use the remote start every morning. Anyways I jumped in and started it and noticed my CEL is illuminated. First time it’s ever been on. So I started googling and see that the remote start won’t work if the CEL is on. I went to autozone to get a scan and it was inconclusive with a ton of codes. So I’m just checking to see where to start. I seen two posts that mention Battery. Could that be an issue? I unplugged the battery earlier and went around the block with no light. Got home and tried the auto start again. It started then dies and left the CEL on. So I Unplugged it again for a few and there she sits. It’s dark so I turned to Forum help until tomorrow.

 

It would really help us if you can post ALL the OBD II codes. Repairs can only begin when/until a good diagnosis is done. Name year, type of motor in liters, and transmission if you know it, or if it's a stick-shift (we can look that up) you don't need to post the VIN number, in fact, don't post the VIN. It's not needed, and it's important to keep that a secret. You can buy a decent simple code scanner for $35-40 bucks. It won't do what we experienced mechanics use, as in the 300 dollar range, or much higher for a professional ASE Tech, but 90 percent of the time it's all you'll ever need.

BTW, the battery testing garbage the auto-parts stores use are a joke. A good battery tester is far more expensive than what they use, but they are in the business of selling batteries, and most are not techs, so I would not trust what that thing says at all IRT your own battery.

 

Here was the print out of the error codes. Maybe there is something there than someone can recognize as a problem.
2016 1500
5.3 I believe
auto trans.
4x4 crew cab
105K


Error codes

 

I was following another issue on this BB concerning start, run, then after 15 seconds shutoff. OP said with maf unplugged it ran fine, tells me it will run in closed loop mode. I thought MAF sensors were heated as to set the flow temperature at a given, wasn't the case. They (MAF) sensors for the most part have a heated rod that the air flow across it changes the resistance, thus the voltage to the PCM, it also has an ambient temperature sensor. With the DTC you have points to the maf as what I read in your post the are all related, this is from wikipedia,
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mass_flow_sensor

 

well, I changed the MAF. There was no difference right away. I was having a hard time clearing codes after I changed it. I finally Got everything cleared and it actually seamed to run really good. Real responsive. Took it around the block. Came back home and tried the auto start. Started. Then died. CEL again. I cleared everything again. I drive about 100 miles a day for work so hopefully it stays off tomorrow. I’ll check back tomorrow around 3pm or so when I’m back.

 

any cel will disable remote start. fix the cel and the remote start will fu nction normally.

 

yes I understand that. I’m trying to get help with the underlying issue. Just including that for informational purposes. Looking for any help on what I can look for in my own before having to take it to the shop. I replaced the MAF sensor. Still have CEL. Based on what I can find about P0097 is it may be the harness or pigtail itself. Anyone have a procedure I can do to start checking things? Thanks in advance.

 

low input means short...probably a short to grd. I would start will the ref voltage feed. It probably feeds the maf sensor also and hence both codes. so do a short to grd check on the feed from the pcm to the sensor.

 

OK so i think we got this fixed. I replaced the MAF sensor the other day and still had an issue. Today I had the car looked at and dummy me. When they say start by checking the fuses they weren't lying. In all my years I always do however this time I didn't. I've actually never changed a fuse in my life time. LOL its literally never been the fuse. Anyways the tech looked at it. Because I've already changed the MAF sensor he couldn't see if the old one was bad. He suspects that the old MAF went out and ultimately causing the fuse to blow out. I changed the sensor but didn't know about the fuse. When I started the car and got the same light with the same codes it wasn't the sensor at the point but it was the fuse. If the problem comes back ill chime in again but I wanted to share the news and the fix. MAF sensor and fuse... Thanks for the help to those who chimed in.