Astro won't start in cold
#1
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We just had the fuel pump and filter replaced 2 weeks ago. I don't know if it is just a coincidence, but since it was replaced the van doesn't want to start when it gets really cold and left overnight.
It will start fine every morning in our heated parking and every where else we leave it if it is not too cold or left too long. But if left overnight outside it will not start, have had it towed 3 times in the last 2 weeks. It will come really close to turning over the first couple of times I try it, but then just cranks with no igniting.
After the 2nd tow, they replaced the distributor cap and rotor. They asked it while they were in there if I wanted the distributor replaces as well, but told me they couldn't guarantee any of this was the cause, so I said no to that. I am back to the same issue, so I guess it wasn't the cap and rotor?
Here is everything they did:
-replaced distributor cap and rotor
-fuel pressure test - ok
-checked fault codes - no codes
-removed inner engine cover, checked for moisture - no moisture
-checked ignition system- ok
-checked spark plug wires - ok
-checked ignition coil - ok
-check ignition spark - weak, but increased when warm
-checked distributor, bearing/bushings - worn and making some noise
-checked all wiring, fuses and relays for fuel pump - ok
I know the spark plugs have not been changed for the 2 years I have owned it, but I assume they would have told me if that could be the issue?
I don't know what to do next. I only have 2 choices of garages in town. It seems the one I have been going to just wants to keep replacing things until they find the issue, it that all I can do at this point?
Should I go ahead and have the distributor replaced?
I have read through the forums for all the cold start issues, the only other things I have read are putting silcone around the distributor cap to keep out moisture and putting dielectric grease on the plug and cap connections on the wires.
Running fuel system treatment through it?
Someone else suggested catalytic converter issue?
The first thing I thought of was moisture or water may have got in the fuel when they replaced the pump and put fuel back in. I asked them about that, but they said it is very rare these days to have water in the fuel. I went ahead and added fuel antifreeze for the last two fillups anyways. At first I thought it helped, it did start after leaving it in the cold for 10 hours each day at work, but now we're back to not starting in cold again. Perhaps it was just a fluke and was not as cold as it is now.
Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
It will start fine every morning in our heated parking and every where else we leave it if it is not too cold or left too long. But if left overnight outside it will not start, have had it towed 3 times in the last 2 weeks. It will come really close to turning over the first couple of times I try it, but then just cranks with no igniting.
After the 2nd tow, they replaced the distributor cap and rotor. They asked it while they were in there if I wanted the distributor replaces as well, but told me they couldn't guarantee any of this was the cause, so I said no to that. I am back to the same issue, so I guess it wasn't the cap and rotor?
Here is everything they did:
-replaced distributor cap and rotor
-fuel pressure test - ok
-checked fault codes - no codes
-removed inner engine cover, checked for moisture - no moisture
-checked ignition system- ok
-checked spark plug wires - ok
-checked ignition coil - ok
-check ignition spark - weak, but increased when warm
-checked distributor, bearing/bushings - worn and making some noise
-checked all wiring, fuses and relays for fuel pump - ok
I know the spark plugs have not been changed for the 2 years I have owned it, but I assume they would have told me if that could be the issue?
I don't know what to do next. I only have 2 choices of garages in town. It seems the one I have been going to just wants to keep replacing things until they find the issue, it that all I can do at this point?
Should I go ahead and have the distributor replaced?
I have read through the forums for all the cold start issues, the only other things I have read are putting silcone around the distributor cap to keep out moisture and putting dielectric grease on the plug and cap connections on the wires.
Running fuel system treatment through it?
Someone else suggested catalytic converter issue?
The first thing I thought of was moisture or water may have got in the fuel when they replaced the pump and put fuel back in. I asked them about that, but they said it is very rare these days to have water in the fuel. I went ahead and added fuel antifreeze for the last two fillups anyways. At first I thought it helped, it did start after leaving it in the cold for 10 hours each day at work, but now we're back to not starting in cold again. Perhaps it was just a fluke and was not as cold as it is now.
Any suggestion would be greatly appreciated.
#3
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oops, forgot to mention that, 2001 2WD V6 4.3L 194,000K
Just to add, after having it towed yesterday. We put it in the heated underground parking of our condo. After 3 hours I went down and it started up no problem, maybe 1 second of crank before it turned over. It drove off fine this morning as well out of the heated garage. Now I have it parked at work outside plugged in, it is currently -33C. We'll see if it starts after work.
Just to add, after having it towed yesterday. We put it in the heated underground parking of our condo. After 3 hours I went down and it started up no problem, maybe 1 second of crank before it turned over. It drove off fine this morning as well out of the heated garage. Now I have it parked at work outside plugged in, it is currently -33C. We'll see if it starts after work.
#5
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i have a 1997 silverado 5.0 that is doing the same exact thing, i just replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter 2 weeks ago, and it is still doing it i also replace the coil, distributor cap and rotor, plugs and plug wires. i have done a fuel pressure check with a fuel pressure guage. at idle it registers at 57 to 58 psi, shut it off but leave key on and it automatically lowers to about 25 psi. if anybody has any suggestions i would greatly appreciate it, i am tired of trying to figure it out, and spending money with no results. thanks in advance
#6
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Replace the fuel pump. The pressure with the key on should go up to and stay at 55-60psi and should not drop off. They are known to have bad check valves. Use only OEM for reliability of a year or so. A/C Delco's no longer have the external screen. They are internal. I heard Delphi are good too in the forum.
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2002chevyastro
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November 3rd, 2011 3:04 PM