I have a 2001 cavalier with 175000km. Runs great, but I replaced rotors and front strut bushings last week and all was fine. 2 days later my wife was driving and said the TC light came on, and car wouldn't go above 45k/h. When I took it for a drive a couple of hours later it was fine. I drove it to work (20km) for 3 days and it was fine. The 4th day, on my way home the TC light came on, and the tranny would not shift out of 2nd, and only 45 km/h @ 2300 - 2500 RPM. Any suggestions? How do I check my trany level (2.2 4spd OD) since there is no dip stick? Could low trany level cause this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

There's a plug above the pan for checking the fluid level. Unless there's a leak, there's no need to bother especially since most people are not equipped to check it safely and correctly. I doubt it's low. Rather, it sounds like the PCM detected some sort of a powertrain problem and went into limp mode. Check all electrical connectors and wiring harnesses you touched during the brake and strut work? If they check out, get it scanned at a shop.

 

My check engine light has been on forever (P440 evap) so I didn't think to check for codes. Hooked up my OBD reader, and have P0753 Shift Solenoid "A", P0758 Shift Solenoid "B", GM code P1860 PWM Solenoid Circuit. Anyone have any suggestions as to where to start with these, or where these solenoids are located?

 

Those are all electrical trouble codes. The solenoids are internal to the transaxle. They get the ignition voltage (i.e., hot in run or start) from the 10A ERLS fuse in the fuse block. The PCM grounds the solenoid circuit to actuate each solenoid and senses electrical problems like the absence of the voltage. Look for a 14-conductor wiring harness terminating at a round connector that's plugged into the transaxle:



Make sure the fuse isn't blown and the wiring harness isn't crushed or something.

 

Thanks so much for the advice, and especially the diagram. Something I didn's say in my last post, and don't know if it may add some insight on your part. After I read the codes, I cleared them, then took the car for a ride. It would rev up to about 2500 and not shift, but as soon as I let off on the gas (as if shifting a standard) and once the RPM's dropped to about 1300 I started to add throttle, it had shifted. I had to do this through all gears, but by doing this it would shift. No TC light, and no Check Engine light, but I only drove about 2 miles.
Does this still sound like it could be a fuse, or a bad wire?

Thanks
Ollie

 

The transaxle is behaving weird even for the warm-up and thus the codes will probably come back, given enough time for the PCM to go through the paces. I'd be surprised if problems like that fixed themselves. Just go over everything electrical you touched and pay close attention to the transaxle wiring harness?

 

I've been working the last few days (12hr shifts) so haven't had any time to work on my wife's car. Got a factory shop manual for a 2000 cavalier from a friend and was just going through the p753 DTC troubleshooting process. checked the fuse (ERSL), and it was fine. Checked that voltage going to the solenoid power pin (E), and it was good. At this point, before I went on any further, thought I would check the oil level since I have a small leak one of the fluid lines going to the rad. Started the car up to put it on ramps, and when I put it in OD, the trany didn't shift really hard into gear as it has ever since I started having this problem. (I had taken it for a drive before looking at it today, and it was doing the same, only getting 2nd gear, and shifting hard into it once I put the gear selector in OD position). Decided to see if it would shift through the gears, and by the time I got 200 meters down the road, the TC light went out, and the car shifted through all gears as normal. Drove about 10 miles with lots of stops and starts and all was good. Checked the wiring at the plug on the harness and all looked good. Decided to check oil level just the same. Raised car on stands. Made sure it was level in both directions. But when I removed the "Oil Level" screw in the diagram, it was as if it was a drain plug. Quickly put it back in. Went all over the trany body looking for another level plug, and could find nothing. Any idea where there might be one, or if the Level screw is actually the Required level, and if so why there was so much fluid in it. I have never added any since we bought the car in 2003? Could really use any suggestions. (I probably lost 1/3 liter of oil before I got the plug in, and would really like to know how to determine what my transmission level is). Thanks for any suggestions.

 

Either it was too full, too hot, or you had the engine off. The fluid level should be at the bottom edge of the check hole with the vehicle level, engine running, and fluid temperature around 104°F. The torque value on the plug is 10 lb-ft. There's no drain plug since the pan gets dropped for a fluid and filter service.

 

Thanks a ton for getting back to me tonight. I pulled the plug with the car both cold, and off. So guess tomorrow, I should warm the car up to thermostat opening temp, and pull the plug with the car running. Guess I should have thought of that eh. As far as the problem going away when I pulled the electrical connector off the trany and then reconnected. I physically checked the wiring as it goes into the plug and then back into the harness about a foot, and they all looked good. Any way to open the plug up and check the pin connections inside the plug itself? Again thanks for the help.

 

The electrical connector is not serviceable. You probably won't see anything obvious if you break it open anyway. Your problem is an intermittent electrical connection. Often the damage (corrosion or fraying) is inside the insulation and thus not visible. Did you check the power at the connector while flexing the wiring harness?