travismm

Here's what happened. After a really cold day I walk out from work and the car wouldn't start. would crank, but not start.

Tested if it was a fuel problem by spraying starter fluid in the intake, still wouldn't start.

Tested if it was spark by plugging in a new plug into a line and having someone crank it. no spark.

Read online, asked at parts store about problem and everyone said it was the Crank Sensor, so I replaced it.

Still cranking but no start. I haven't had a chance to test if it's sparking yet, but I'm assuming not.

what am I missing?

can cold (5-10f) kill two coils?

rhulsey1

Check engine light? How new is the battery? Did the car crank normally or did it act as if it wasn't getting enough power somewhere?

tech2

don't know what year or engine so assuming no distributor

check the ignition module, coils and modules are common problems.

if you have a scan tool watch the crankps when cranking...do you have a rpm signal. If yes, the crank sensor is ok. When you lose crank signal both spark and injector pulse go out.

travismm

Ok. I'll test the RPM thing shortly.

It's a 98 base with the 2.2

I don't have any codes, none (this surprised me). but the security light is on steady. I've purchased a passlock bypass kit that I'm going to wire in and see if that fixes it. but that that it's in hand and I'm rereading things on the internet I'm not confident thats the (only) problem. the car doesn't start and then die, but does crank which is different than either of the discriptors I've read (starter wont click or starts and then dies)

If I pull the coils, can a shop test them?


thanks for the help. sorry for the silence.

tech2

if the security light is on steady get the body codes read and post the dtc.

travismm

With the scan Tool i have it wasn't reading any RPMS. I literally just changed the crank sensor. it was a PITA to do too so I'm not jumping at the chance to re-replace it. What else should I check? is there a relay or something similar?

It's throwing zero codes, which surprises me greatly as cars today tend to throw codes for gas caps not on tight enough.

kevinkpk

You will need an ignition coil tester (nomenclature?) Looks like a ice pick with a light in the handle. The spark signal is so fast, and short duration this is about the only way to check for spark. As Tech2 stated, if your scan tool reads rpm, it should show rpms when cranking. If you have an ohmeter, you can disconnect the electrical connector check the coil (cps coil) should read around 1K.

travismm

Ok, so I found this guide to testing "No Start" problems, and I failed the first one. the Ignition control module isn't getting the -12 volts that it should be getting. Pretty sure that means the anti-theft is kicking my butt. so I'm going to rewire the passlock module and see if that works.

unless anyone here knows what I should check between power and Ignition control module.

god if this is all because a fuse or relay I'm going to jump up and down and bang my head into a wall. possibly at the same time.


Again. zero codes from the car.

tech2

what are you using to check for codes? A code reader or cheap scan tool will not read body codes.

travismm

it's a home built reader that uses THIS software
It gives me a lot of data. I can track throttle position and MAF and all of that in real time