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All I meant was I didn't want to turn this thread into a long, drawn out argument over exactly how much fuel your engine was going to need because it distracts from the original intent of your post - then your question may never be answered. I've seen it dozens of times on auto forums where guys will start nit-picking and bickering with each other and throwing equations into their posts to prove exactly why they are right - that's what I don't have the time or energy for.
Absolutely no "chest puffing" intended - I only wanted to clarify why I brought up fuel volume to begin with, which was because I misunderstood your original question. Clearly we don't know each other personally and I've no idea what level of experience you have in automotive repair, so how would I know whether or not the carb and pump set up you have is adequate? I don't, and if you're certain that it'll work for you, I'm not going to try and convince you otherwise.
I asked what you were doing with the truck and if you had pics out of pure curiosity. Rebuilds and restorations are interesting to me, but if you don't want to share, that's absolutely your choice.
Good luck.
Fuel line fitment to frame was the question and the miss alignment of the sending unit and the line that hooks up to it- - - you missed that point adding to what you thought was needed which it isn't needed at all. I'll be polite about this- - - You I wont respond back to anymore, I said it before and I'll say it again HAVE A GOOD DAY GUY.
The sending unit has a lock ring with o ring seal. Rotate the locking ring counterclockwise, rotate the sending unit to align with the tube connector, then lock it back down. I'd recommend little bit of grease on the O ring as it won't grab on the lock ring.
Side note, we all are tired, and tired of this coron crap, just take it into consideration, enjoy your project!
Both of the locking points one being on the tank (spot welded in place) and the other one being the sending unit itself both have a certain clocking position that can't be changed. Any way if the sending unit could be turned counterclockwise the float arm would hit the back of the tank and not giving a correct reading.
Here is some more pictures showing the engine area with the 3/8" line not really lining up with the curvature of the frame. Also showing the original 5/16" line (the dirty one) in how it ends up right behind the engine perch and motor mount making to pretty hard to service, as what I have found that small block motors can use the 6 cyl line but as you can see the 6 cyl line doesn't work with the V8 engine perch's but when the 6 cyl engine perch's would have been in place they would be about 2" back in the frame mounting holes but with the V8 engine perch's in there proper mounting forward holes they block the 6 cyl line making it hard to service. Don't remember where I read that 6 cyl lines can be used for small block motors but I will try to find it again too report the findings.
Both of the locking points one being on the tank (spot welded in place) and the other one being the sending unit itself both have a certain clocking position that can't be changed. Any way if the sending unit could be turned counterclockwise the float arm would hit the back of the tank and not giving a correct reading.
I didn't have that problem, rotated the lock ring, and sending unit. Remember this is rotating a float 10 degress in a 25 gallon tank. As far as rotating the sending unit , if you cannot make the connection, bend the tubing to fit, again this has been a couple years ago, but I don't remember having issues other than the sending unit was shipped seperate from the tank, and we installed it. Drove in that truck just yesterday.
I didn't have that problem, rotated the lock ring, and sending unit. Remember this is rotating a float 10 degress in a 25 gallon tank. As far as rotating the sending unit , if you cannot make the connection, bend the tubing to fit, again this has been a couple years ago, but I don't remember having issues other than the sending unit was shipped seperate from the tank, and we installed it. Drove in that truck just yesterday.
Not sure in what your year of truck is but these trucks from 67 through 72 the tanks behind the bench seat in the cabs all trucks max fill is 20. something gallons sometimes advertised as 21 gallon tanks. Not looking to bend something that is supposed to work together as it is sold too. The sending units out feed line is longer then the tube that comes to it from down through the floor, when both are in their correct placement area the two 3/8" lines male and female connectors wont match up.. Micky Mousing isn't what I want for this truck as I have had enough of that from Past Owners as I put it this way they have THOROUGHLY MOLESTED this truck. Its never going to win a Bitchin Looking Ride Contest or be period correct parts wise but it will be as close to a stock fitment of parts that I can put on it. With as popular as these year of trucks are (67-72) you'd think someone would have by now made restoration parts Correctly with out having to bend the $ h ! t out of them to make something work. All the fuel lines and the Sending Unit Classic Ind. sent me a pre paid return shipping label as with all my pictures I sent them they come to the conclusion what was sold to me was all wrong they even paid for a UPS store to box or package all of it up. I can't ask for any better than what they did for me and the kicker is I bought the parts back in November of 2019 well past there returns policy of 30 days of the invoice date. Cool people to work with if I do say so. So far I have spent half of the $5900.00 in parts at there store (Classic Ind in Huntington Beach, CA)
PS what year is your truck that has a 25 gallon tank?
Not sure in what your year of truck is but these trucks from 67 through 72 the tanks behind the bench seat in the cabs all trucks max fill is 20. something gallons sometimes advertised as 21 gallon tanks. Not looking to bend something that is supposed to work together as it is sold too. The sending units out feed line is longer then the tube that comes to it from down through the floor, when both are in their correct placement area the two 3/8" lines male and female connectors wont match up.. Micky Mousing isn't what I want for this truck as I have had enough of that from Past Owners as I put it this way they have THOROUGHLY MOLESTED this truck. Its never going to win a Bitchin Looking Ride Contest or be period correct parts wise but it will be as close to a stock fitment of parts that I can put on it. With as popular as these year of trucks are (67-72) you'd think someone would have by now made restoration parts Correctly with out having to bend the $ h ! t out of them to make something work. All the fuel lines and the Sending Unit Classic Ind. sent me a pre paid return shipping label as with all my pictures I sent them they come to the conclusion what was sold to me was all wrong they even paid for a UPS store to box or package all of it up. I can't ask for any better than what they did for me and the kicker is I bought the parts back in November of 2019 well past there returns policy of 30 days of the invoice date. Cool people to work with if I do say so. So far I have spent half of the $5900.00 in parts at there store (Classic Ind in Huntington Beach, CA)
PS what year is your truck that has a 25 gallon tank?
It is a 3/4 ton, 1971. It could be a 20 gallon, but not sure. It is my son in laws
