No Crank No start, no fuel pressure
April 29th, 2019, 4:28 PM
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No Crank No start, no fuel pressure
2006 Cobalt LT Automatic 180K miles.
So this is a weird one. Car was running fine but while in Oregon it started having transmission problems. Decided to have a new trans installed (fully rebuilt unit, not used). After install the car would not crank. Shop spent 2 full days trying to figure out what happened. They couldn't figure it out so they gave me the transmission and said Have A Nice Day.
Things that have been done:
Checked Battery and connections.
Checked every fuse/swapped relays
replaced fuse box
replaced ECU and had dealer reprogram it and make 3 extra keys
replaced MAF
New throttle body
New throttle pedal sensor
New ignition switch (dealer recall)
new PRNDL switch
checked for any unplugged or pinched wires during trans installation.
inspected entire harness.
This is what happens when I turn the key:
All normal dash lights come on
Gauge says Reduced engine power
Radio says "Locked"
Fuel pump does not activate (no pressure)
power windows/locks work
all HVAC works
Sunroof works
Wipers DO NOT work
All exterior/interior lights work
Turning the key does nothing, no sounds at all, not even a click.
I can jump the starter relay contacts and the starter cranks the engine but does not start.
Thoughts were security? "padlock" light comes on when key on but not blinking. Will go out after key on for 20 min. Don't think that's the problem.
Checked for 5.0v reference. Have 5.0v at fuel pump but for some reason only 3.8v at throttle body.
For some reason the ECU is not telling the starter to engage, nor the fuel pump to activate, and I assume no spark (but haven't verified that).
Codes are:
P0449 (evap)
P2122 (throttle pedal)
P2125 (throttle pedal)
P2128 (throttle pedal)
P0463 Fuel level sensor
P0650 MIL light
CEL is on and none of these codes can be erased which is weird. Never had that problem before.
What do you think? Ideas?
So this is a weird one. Car was running fine but while in Oregon it started having transmission problems. Decided to have a new trans installed (fully rebuilt unit, not used). After install the car would not crank. Shop spent 2 full days trying to figure out what happened. They couldn't figure it out so they gave me the transmission and said Have A Nice Day.
Things that have been done:
Checked Battery and connections.
Checked every fuse/swapped relays
replaced fuse box
replaced ECU and had dealer reprogram it and make 3 extra keys
replaced MAF
New throttle body
New throttle pedal sensor
New ignition switch (dealer recall)
new PRNDL switch
checked for any unplugged or pinched wires during trans installation.
inspected entire harness.
This is what happens when I turn the key:
All normal dash lights come on
Gauge says Reduced engine power
Radio says "Locked"
Fuel pump does not activate (no pressure)
power windows/locks work
all HVAC works
Sunroof works
Wipers DO NOT work
All exterior/interior lights work
Turning the key does nothing, no sounds at all, not even a click.
I can jump the starter relay contacts and the starter cranks the engine but does not start.
Thoughts were security? "padlock" light comes on when key on but not blinking. Will go out after key on for 20 min. Don't think that's the problem.
Checked for 5.0v reference. Have 5.0v at fuel pump but for some reason only 3.8v at throttle body.
For some reason the ECU is not telling the starter to engage, nor the fuel pump to activate, and I assume no spark (but haven't verified that).
Codes are:
P0449 (evap)
P2122 (throttle pedal)
P2125 (throttle pedal)
P2128 (throttle pedal)
P0463 Fuel level sensor
P0650 MIL light
CEL is on and none of these codes can be erased which is weird. Never had that problem before.
What do you think? Ideas?
April 29th, 2019, 8:27 PM
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That was my first thought too but unless they screwed it up at the dealer, they were supposed to have reprogrammed it and added the extra keys. I also tried the "security relearn" procedure with no effect. When I scan the TCM it says "lost communication with engine control module". The thing I've never experienced is when I erase the codes, they don't erase. The light stays on and the codes are still there when I re-scan. I'm leaning toward the ECU being no good or it got screwed up at the dealer. The radio says "locked". From what I understand, the radio looks to the ECU for the correct VIN and if it doesn't see it, it locks (thinking it's been stolen and put into another car). Might try getting another ECU from Flagship 1 Inc. Looks like $150 all pre-programmed and ready to plug and play. I'll be calling them in the morning and seeing what they think.
Also, I rechecked for the 5v reference and have it at the MAF, fuel pump, throttle body, etc so I think that should be OK.
The other thing that seems weird is the wipers don't work...everything else does. Don't know why that is.
Any other ideas are welcome, thanks.
I'll keep y'all posted as I know this type of problem seem to be very common.
Also, I rechecked for the 5v reference and have it at the MAF, fuel pump, throttle body, etc so I think that should be OK.
The other thing that seems weird is the wipers don't work...everything else does. Don't know why that is.
Any other ideas are welcome, thanks.
I'll keep y'all posted as I know this type of problem seem to be very common.
May 8th, 2019, 7:23 PM
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So I bought and installed a new ECU. I noticed my scan tool said the ECU was from an HHR with a totally different VIN... After installing the NEWLY programed ECU, showing the correct car and VIN, there is no change. I did the key relearn procedure and still nothing. The strange thing is I scanned for codes and all the same codes are still present (listed above).
Also, related or not, I have a parasitic voltage draw that kills the battery overnight, about 1.9A. I did the "pull each fuse" thing and none of the fuses caused the draw to stop. So that's a thing I'm dealing with now too.
Double checked the fusible link and it is good too.
Don't know where to go from here...maybe replace the BCM?
Ideas? Anyone?
Also, related or not, I have a parasitic voltage draw that kills the battery overnight, about 1.9A. I did the "pull each fuse" thing and none of the fuses caused the draw to stop. So that's a thing I'm dealing with now too.
Double checked the fusible link and it is good too.
Don't know where to go from here...maybe replace the BCM?
Ideas? Anyone?
May 9th, 2019, 4:02 PM
#5
return the ECU within 30 days. don't buy expensive parts and throw them on unless you diagnose the problem first.
(some parts places do not take ECU back once opened, is why i say that ... also you said the "new one" didn't help. and since you may not have a dealer reprogramming tool - that's another problem)
(some parts places do not take ECU back once opened, is why i say that ... also you said the "new one" didn't help. and since you may not have a dealer reprogramming tool - that's another problem)
May 9th, 2019, 4:05 PM
#6
your scanner may not show transmission codes
you may have a (transmission) with a bad computer in it or - simply have a loose transmission connector.
your story doesn't add up. no one pays for a new trans and simply walks away without the job done ??
another issue: the "deal" is if a shop does a damage you take it to the dealer who first agrees to recover the dealer fees from the shop that did the damage
the issue that your working on a car someone else is on the hook for just doesn't sound right
you may have a (transmission) with a bad computer in it or - simply have a loose transmission connector.
your story doesn't add up. no one pays for a new trans and simply walks away without the job done ??
another issue: the "deal" is if a shop does a damage you take it to the dealer who first agrees to recover the dealer fees from the shop that did the damage
the issue that your working on a car someone else is on the hook for just doesn't sound right
May 10th, 2019, 11:23 AM
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return the ECU within 30 days. don't buy expensive parts and throw them on unless you diagnose the problem first.
(some parts places do not take ECU back once opened, is why i say that ... also you said the "new one" didn't help. and since you may not have a dealer reprogramming tool - that's another problem)
(some parts places do not take ECU back once opened, is why i say that ... also you said the "new one" didn't help. and since you may not have a dealer reprogramming tool - that's another problem)
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May 10th, 2019, 11:41 AM
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your scanner may not show transmission codes
you may have a (transmission) with a bad computer in it or - simply have a loose transmission connector.
your story doesn't add up. no one pays for a new trans and simply walks away without the job done ??
another issue: the "deal" is if a shop does a damage you take it to the dealer who first agrees to recover the dealer fees from the shop that did the damage
the issue that your working on a car someone else is on the hook for just doesn't sound right
you may have a (transmission) with a bad computer in it or - simply have a loose transmission connector.
your story doesn't add up. no one pays for a new trans and simply walks away without the job done ??
another issue: the "deal" is if a shop does a damage you take it to the dealer who first agrees to recover the dealer fees from the shop that did the damage
the issue that your working on a car someone else is on the hook for just doesn't sound right
My scanner scans transmissions and there are no codes.
I think you misread the OP. The shop that installed the Transmission "GAVE" (that mean no-charge) the transmission to me since they broke my car. I towed the car home with a new, FREE, transmission in it. After researching the symptoms and situation going on and trying all common "fixes" (listed below), I still couldn't figure out the problem.
Checked Battery and connections.
Checked every fuse/swapped relays
replaced fuse box
replaced ECU and had dealer reprogram it and make 3 extra keys (aparently they programmed it as an HHR with wrong VIN)
replaced MAF
New throttle body
New throttle pedal sensor
New ignition switch (dealer recall)
New PRNDL switch on the transmission
checked for any unplugged or pinched wires during trans installation.
inspected entire harness.
checked for 5v reference
checked, cleaned and inspected all grounds
checked for B+ voltage at starter (starter cranks if jumped)
...and here we are.
May 10th, 2019, 11:50 AM
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I'm starting to think this car is just cursed...Had the charger on the battery (low setting) while I'm testing things, key on, etc...and the battery started boiling over!!!
I unhooked it and the following day, pulled the battery out. I tested it and it showed bad...also showed 13.5v...too high. Will it never end?
I unhooked it and the following day, pulled the battery out. I tested it and it showed bad...also showed 13.5v...too high. Will it never end?