cmac2012

I’ve done it now. This will go in the archives of dumb *** mistakes. I’m still having hesitation issues with my ‘89 G20. I occasionally employed my excellent mechanic buddy for issues that are beyond my talents. The guy is really good. He quickly determined that the EGR was bad. I got a new one plus solenoid. While taking the valve out, part of its guts fell out, so it was pretty clearly past its pulldate.

Leading up to that, I was having a really hard time getting the nut on the left side out, bunch of stuff in the way, I moved a couple of things, then, in my wisdom, I decided I needed to move one of the fuel lines a bit out of the way, I twisted the nut attached to a large nut which screws into the side of the TBI. I was in too big of a hurry, I didn’t realize that the larger nut was turning as well, should’ve had a wrench on it. I ended up twisting the fuel line, and now I have a tiny leak with a larger nut no longer grips the TBI housing properly. Not sure how I can tighten it back without damaging the line even more, and it needs to be replaced anyway. Like I said, stupid on steroids. What’s more, turns out I was able to get the valve out with the fuel line still in place, and even though the valve was bad, the problem seems to have been slightly Improved but it’s still there.

However, self-flagellation will not get the truck running properly. I found this repair kit, I can buy a fuel line bender cheap at harbor freight, it’s a 5/16 line on my truck, that’s what this kit is, but I’m not sure the nut on the end is the right size. They specify that it is not model specific, but elsewhere I see it described as compatible with the CK1500. I guess I could use the original nut and just slide it over the line.

Does anyone have any experience with this item? I hope it’s not forbidden to post links like this.

https://tinyurl.com/3weynwu2

Triaged

I think the 5/16" side is 14mm thread. They are special O-ring fittings. Not something you can do with a normal flare tool. I think this is what you need. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...916&pt=1001130

William Kisselstein

I would check if Dorman Help! has this fitting with a section of line on it. They do make one for the fuel filter.

Worth noting that these only run about 15 PSI and you can splice lines together with fuel line hose and clamps if you need to. The line routing also doesn't really need to be perfect, if you use that copper clad stuff they sell now you can probably bend it by hand and as long as it's not rubbing on anything it will work fine.

cmac2012

^ Great advice, I was wondering about using hose and hose clamps. I somehow make it happen this weekend, we’ll see. Boneyards can be a cruel mistress. Just a month or two ago there were three G20s at the Newark, CA yard. It’s one of the biggest in these parts if not the biggest, and has a large truck section. Now there are no G20s in the entire Bay Area. I had been hoping to find the entire fuel line, I looked at all the other Chevy trucks in the TBI era, ‘87 to ‘95 IINM, no luck.

William Kisselstein

You probably don't want to make the whole thing out of a hose. I did have a car ages ago done that way before I got it and it never gave an issue, but I also had one later with the trans lines done with hose and one rubbed a hole into it which I had to fix on the road. Thankfully I'd put an extra trans cooler on that one and I was able to use the plumbing into it to cob a repair. .

But the same metal lines the parts stores sell as brake line also work as fuel line (and as trans cooler lines on these vans). Your choice if you want to buy a coil of it and straighten it out, or buy it in premade sections and union them together.

Out there rust is less of an issue but here I like to both put a section of hose in ahead of and behind the fuel filter, so I can take the whole works out and put it in a vise or what have you to get it apart, and also I like to route the line off the frame where it passes the shock mount because it holds junk in there and rots out the frame rail in time. Usually there's a hole in the crossmember there to run the line through and I put a bit of split hose or something over it to protect it.