Starts then dies 2003 express 3500
October 13th, 2021, 8:55 PM
#1
Starts then dies 2003 express 3500
Banging my head here hopefully someone can help.
Van was sitting inside a shop for 6 months or so went to start the van and battery was dead, put jumper cables on and got the battery charged. It will start for 2 seconds then dies. The power locks don’t work or the dome light. The radio turns on only the 2 seconds it is started.
There is no chip in the key or security on this van. No power windows no fob only power locks.
Tired the relearn where you turn it to on for 10 mins then off for 10 seconds and repeat for a total of 3 times. Same thing
disconnected the battery overnight reconnected same thing.
Checked all fuses that I think would be apart of ignition or ecm all seem good.
There was a video of someone with a similar problem removing key with it in the on position and reinserting the key and it would start. But that did work either.
I can here the fuel pump turning on but haven’t checked pressure yet.
I believe it is some kind of electrical issues because the locks and radio and dome light not working.
main ground is good and the one connected the body mount on left side is good.
no check engine codes
2003 express 3500 6.0
Van was sitting inside a shop for 6 months or so went to start the van and battery was dead, put jumper cables on and got the battery charged. It will start for 2 seconds then dies. The power locks don’t work or the dome light. The radio turns on only the 2 seconds it is started.
There is no chip in the key or security on this van. No power windows no fob only power locks.
Tired the relearn where you turn it to on for 10 mins then off for 10 seconds and repeat for a total of 3 times. Same thing
disconnected the battery overnight reconnected same thing.
Checked all fuses that I think would be apart of ignition or ecm all seem good.
There was a video of someone with a similar problem removing key with it in the on position and reinserting the key and it would start. But that did work either.
I can here the fuel pump turning on but haven’t checked pressure yet.
I believe it is some kind of electrical issues because the locks and radio and dome light not working.
main ground is good and the one connected the body mount on left side is good.
no check engine codes
2003 express 3500 6.0
Last edited by not6bucks; October 13th, 2021 at 10:18 PM.
October 13th, 2021, 11:45 PM
#2
CF Monarch
Banging my head here hopefully someone can help.
Van was sitting inside a shop for 6 months or so went to start the van and battery was dead, put jumper cables on and got the battery charged. It will start for 2 seconds then dies. The power locks don’t work or the dome light. The radio turns on only the 2 seconds it is started.
There is no chip in the key or security on this van. No power windows no fob only power locks.
Tired the relearn where you turn it to on for 10 mins then off for 10 seconds and repeat for a total of 3 times. Same thing
disconnected the battery overnight reconnected same thing.
Checked all fuses that I think would be apart of ignition or ecm all seem good.
There was a video of someone with a similar problem removing key with it in the on position and reinserting the key and it would start. But that did work either.
I can here the fuel pump turning on but haven’t checked pressure yet.
I believe it is some kind of electrical issues because the locks and radio and dome light not working.
main ground is good and the one connected the body mount on left side is good.
no check engine codes
2003 express 3500 6.0
Van was sitting inside a shop for 6 months or so went to start the van and battery was dead, put jumper cables on and got the battery charged. It will start for 2 seconds then dies. The power locks don’t work or the dome light. The radio turns on only the 2 seconds it is started.
There is no chip in the key or security on this van. No power windows no fob only power locks.
Tired the relearn where you turn it to on for 10 mins then off for 10 seconds and repeat for a total of 3 times. Same thing
disconnected the battery overnight reconnected same thing.
Checked all fuses that I think would be apart of ignition or ecm all seem good.
There was a video of someone with a similar problem removing key with it in the on position and reinserting the key and it would start. But that did work either.
I can here the fuel pump turning on but haven’t checked pressure yet.
I believe it is some kind of electrical issues because the locks and radio and dome light not working.
main ground is good and the one connected the body mount on left side is good.
no check engine codes
2003 express 3500 6.0
Remove the positive and negative electrical lines to the battery, if you do so. If it's cold outside, I'd recommend removing it from the vehicle to a place that is warm.
If the "water" is low, only add distilled water, not tap water, and only to the point where you will see the water cover the plates up and a bit more to the plastic. As it's 30 percent sulfuric acid, wear eye protection.
Last edited by oilcanhenry; October 14th, 2021 at 12:00 AM.
October 14th, 2021, 7:18 AM
#3
Do you have access to a 2 amp trickle charger at all? IMO, the only way to save your battery; it might be too late; is to allow it to trickle charge for a few days, not hours. If your battery still has the water/vent caps/covers, it would be a good idea to remove them, but keep all other electrical or flammable items away from the battery.
Remove the positive and negative electrical lines to the battery, if you do so. If it's cold outside, I'd recommend removing it from the vehicle to a place that is warm.
If the "water" is low, only add distilled water, not tap water, and only to the point where you will see the water cover the plates up and a bit more to the plastic. As it's 30 percent sulfuric acid, wear eye protection.
Remove the positive and negative electrical lines to the battery, if you do so. If it's cold outside, I'd recommend removing it from the vehicle to a place that is warm.
If the "water" is low, only add distilled water, not tap water, and only to the point where you will see the water cover the plates up and a bit more to the plastic. As it's 30 percent sulfuric acid, wear eye protection.
Ok I will try that today
October 14th, 2021, 9:22 AM
#4
OK went out this morning to check again was going to replace the battery but decided to run tru the fuse block again with a test light found a blown fuse number 19 under the hood. tried a new fuse but it blows as soon as i put it in. It says its for the TBC or BCM should replace the BCM or try and trace down a short? Anyone have the wiring diagram for fuse #19.
October 14th, 2021, 12:48 PM
#5
There isn't much of a diagram for fuse 19. The circuit passes through the firewall (C205) and goes directly to the BCM. Red/White wires.
The BCM switches many loads, so you need to find out what is shorting. Do all the lights work? (I mean every one, including license plate lamp)
https://www.gmtruckclub.com/threads/...0/#post-590405
https://blazerforum.com/forum/lighti...87/#post697541
The BCM switches many loads, so you need to find out what is shorting. Do all the lights work? (I mean every one, including license plate lamp)
https://www.gmtruckclub.com/threads/...0/#post-590405
https://blazerforum.com/forum/lighti...87/#post697541
October 14th, 2021, 3:59 PM
#6
There isn't much of a diagram for fuse 19. The circuit passes through the firewall (C205) and goes directly to the BCM. Red/White wires.
The BCM switches many loads, so you need to find out what is shorting. Do all the lights work? (I mean every one, including license plate lamp)
https://www.gmtruckclub.com/threads/...0/#post-590405
https://blazerforum.com/forum/lighti...87/#post697541
The BCM switches many loads, so you need to find out what is shorting. Do all the lights work? (I mean every one, including license plate lamp)
https://www.gmtruckclub.com/threads/...0/#post-590405
https://blazerforum.com/forum/lighti...87/#post697541
i found a rear taillight not working bulb looks ok from what I can tell.
October 14th, 2021, 4:16 PM
#7
on my chevy express 07 i had intermittent coponents of the tailight not working' . reverse went out on dive side , had to jumper from apssenger side. brake lite went out, same solution. not working etc. then blinker for turn signal driver side went out. so i fussed w various lites going out and not working for over a year. tried renewing grounds, cleaned the sockets, fixed the common lites like reverse nd brake by jumpering a hot from working passenger side to dirver side for the reverse and brakes. when the driverside turn signal went out i knew --a temp fix just wouldn't work. . . i finally bit the bullet and replaced BOTH rear taillight assemblies for about $90 each off the internet, it was plug n play. all my essential lights have now been working faultlesssly ever since. my suspicion is that chevy's design of the taillight assemblies leaves a lot to be desired when cleaning all the grounds and sockets still results in insufficient amps to light the required lights. maybe it's deteriorated wires, old age, who knows. ( i finally diagnosed why some lights werent working w a fluke clamp on w dc amp capability. the voltage was showing good to the socket, , not much V drop from the engine battery, but insufficient current to light the 3157 bulbs... ) )
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October 14th, 2021, 5:49 PM
#9
October 15th, 2021, 9:36 AM
#10
Ok traced the wires couldn't find anything wrong, could the bcm actual be causing the short?
I opened up the bcm and the circuit board looked good.
I replaced the fuse under the hood #19 checked voltage on the plug at the bcm I get 12.2 volts but pops as soon as I plug the harness in.
I opened up the bcm and the circuit board looked good.
I replaced the fuse under the hood #19 checked voltage on the plug at the bcm I get 12.2 volts but pops as soon as I plug the harness in.