maxed out camber
I went to a shop got an alignment and 2 new tires. they said everything was good. 2 weeks later my tires are chopping on the inside. brought it back. they tried to say they don;t do camber adjustments on big trucks like mine. 2000 chevy express 3500 6.6 TD box van. then proceeded to tell me I needed upper control arms and that the camber bolts are maxed out, the bushings on the upper were old but not bad, also the camber bolts were not adjusted at all. over $1400 in parts and repairs. I did it myself. had to weld a new mount bc they factory one was shot. BUT... the camber on the other side is way off, I have the bolt all the way out and it is still like 4 degrees off. the only thing I didn't replace was the lower control arm. all new ball joints upper and lower. new control arm on the upper, new bearings, rotors, pads and calipers. I replaced everything but the lower control arm and lower bushings.
WTF am I missing? the only thing I can think of is the lower control arm bushings are bad? pushed the bottom of the tire out too much? thought the lower ball joint was not pressed in right, but it's tight to the lip. I also got the new camber bolts that are 2.5 degrees + or - which really doesn't matter bc the bolt is maxed out in that slot cut out on the upper arm mount. really don't want to grind down the bolt holes. I looked for offset bushings for the upper, can't find any. but that doesn't explain why its like 4 degrees out. I have never had an issue like this.
could the spindle not be on right? the rotor spins freely and there is no grinding or rubbing sounds.
All the new parts are moog. I measured the old and the new and they are an exact match. this is my work truck and without it I'm screwed.
any suggestions or thoughts?
WTF am I missing? the only thing I can think of is the lower control arm bushings are bad? pushed the bottom of the tire out too much? thought the lower ball joint was not pressed in right, but it's tight to the lip. I also got the new camber bolts that are 2.5 degrees + or - which really doesn't matter bc the bolt is maxed out in that slot cut out on the upper arm mount. really don't want to grind down the bolt holes. I looked for offset bushings for the upper, can't find any. but that doesn't explain why its like 4 degrees out. I have never had an issue like this.
could the spindle not be on right? the rotor spins freely and there is no grinding or rubbing sounds.
All the new parts are moog. I measured the old and the new and they are an exact match. this is my work truck and without it I'm screwed.
any suggestions or thoughts?
I had a wandering issue. I would say the average alignment tech has no idea how to align the older trucks. After 6 inspections and 5 alignments I found an alignment specialist, 4 of these shops took my money and sent me home with the specs way off, 5th guy fessed up and said he could not get it right. The alignment specialist had my 02 3500 on the rack for 2 minutes TWO MINUTES! and found the plugs for the caster camber kit had not been completely removed.
He could not get the alignment to specs even with the plugs removed and I am sworn to secrecy about what he told me to do. Something about elongating the slots and welding support in. Swapping out the aftermarket aluminum wheels for factory steel solved most of my handling issues.
I would ask around and see if you can find an actual alignment specialist and not the tire store guys or perhaps a truck shop for guidance.
He could not get the alignment to specs even with the plugs removed and I am sworn to secrecy about what he told me to do. Something about elongating the slots and welding support in. Swapping out the aftermarket aluminum wheels for factory steel solved most of my handling issues.
I would ask around and see if you can find an actual alignment specialist and not the tire store guys or perhaps a truck shop for guidance.
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tom5170
Silverado, Sierra & Fullsize Pick-ups
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Mar 23, 2010 9:44 PM








