What did you do with your van today?
#61
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Thread Starter
So I've been reading about DIY engine oil tests. There are various tests you can perform which will reveal some information about the condition of your oil, such as the "crackle" test for moisture content.
One of these is the blotter test. You can buy kits like this:
One of these is the blotter test. You can buy kits like this:
(FA/RA = Front/Rear axle, TC = transfer case, AT = Auto transmission)
Blots obviously are not a reliable method for judging a service interval. They do not give you all the necessary information. But maybe they can provide some early signs that the oil needs to be replaced ahead of schedule. If I take numerous samples, at various stages of oil wear, I hope to see some patterns, or simply gain some insight about what happens to it.
In the engine oil one, I find it interesting how there's a solid spot, with a sharp boundary.
The other drivetrain ones have a darker ring, with a softer boundary.
#62
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Thread Starter
I decided to open up my old oil filter. (ACDelco PF48e installed at GM dealership)
There's nothing new or interesting in it. You can find tons of pictures on the internet of gutted oil filters, and sensational videos claiming this brand of filter is better than another. But they are bullsh*t. They invariably discuss the intricacies of the materials, manufacturing and construction techniques in the putting the filter together. But it's completely irrelevant. Unless my filter falls off, explodes, implodes or leaks, IDGAF if it has this spring or the other, paper or plastic, silicone or rubber. Show me what matters. An oil filter has one main job. Filter the oil.
There is only one absolute way to judge the performance of an oil filter, and that is to analyze the content of motor oil in a car, using the oil filter, under real world conditions. I have yet to find such an analysis. But I did find an interesting website from 2011 that did an excellent job. Here it is:
Oil Filter Comparison Study - GM Truck Central
In that study, fresh oil was mixed with microscopic aluminum particles of known size and composition. The heated oil was forced through discs of filter media at pressures used in car engines. Then the leftover contamination in the oil was measured, and the filter elements were photographed and graded. The 31 oil filter brands were then ranked by how well they filtered.
I did not replace my oil filter with another OEM, and here's why: In the study, the ACDelco filter got an 'F' in filtering, and came in 2nd to last overall. This is a photo of the filter paper itself (left) and the collected particles that made it through the filter. (right):
And the ACDelco filters are not cheap to buy here locally.
I bought a NAPA ProSelect oil filter for $4. (NSF 27060). NAPA is a 2 min drive away. In the study, the NAPA filter got a decent 'C+' in filtering, and ranked 6th overall. In the same class as some premium high priced filters. It filters much better than what GM gives you, and its excellent value for the money. The filtering perfomance is VISIBLY better:
Anyway here are my photos of the Delco filter:
The core is plastic (cage looking thing). They claim that it's so that metal doesn't come in contact with the clean oil side of the filter. We now know it doesn't matter because you'll have junk floating in your oil anyway. I think it's also so they can reuse them.
The filter element is roughly 102 square inches (657 sq. cm). I didn't see any metal particles visible to the naked eye embedded in the media. Both sides looked the same to me.
There's nothing new or interesting in it. You can find tons of pictures on the internet of gutted oil filters, and sensational videos claiming this brand of filter is better than another. But they are bullsh*t. They invariably discuss the intricacies of the materials, manufacturing and construction techniques in the putting the filter together. But it's completely irrelevant. Unless my filter falls off, explodes, implodes or leaks, IDGAF if it has this spring or the other, paper or plastic, silicone or rubber. Show me what matters. An oil filter has one main job. Filter the oil.
There is only one absolute way to judge the performance of an oil filter, and that is to analyze the content of motor oil in a car, using the oil filter, under real world conditions. I have yet to find such an analysis. But I did find an interesting website from 2011 that did an excellent job. Here it is:
Oil Filter Comparison Study - GM Truck Central
In that study, fresh oil was mixed with microscopic aluminum particles of known size and composition. The heated oil was forced through discs of filter media at pressures used in car engines. Then the leftover contamination in the oil was measured, and the filter elements were photographed and graded. The 31 oil filter brands were then ranked by how well they filtered.
I did not replace my oil filter with another OEM, and here's why: In the study, the ACDelco filter got an 'F' in filtering, and came in 2nd to last overall. This is a photo of the filter paper itself (left) and the collected particles that made it through the filter. (right):
And the ACDelco filters are not cheap to buy here locally.
I bought a NAPA ProSelect oil filter for $4. (NSF 27060). NAPA is a 2 min drive away. In the study, the NAPA filter got a decent 'C+' in filtering, and ranked 6th overall. In the same class as some premium high priced filters. It filters much better than what GM gives you, and its excellent value for the money. The filtering perfomance is VISIBLY better:
Anyway here are my photos of the Delco filter:
The core is plastic (cage looking thing). They claim that it's so that metal doesn't come in contact with the clean oil side of the filter. We now know it doesn't matter because you'll have junk floating in your oil anyway. I think it's also so they can reuse them.
The filter element is roughly 102 square inches (657 sq. cm). I didn't see any metal particles visible to the naked eye embedded in the media. Both sides looked the same to me.
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MiragePilot (September 6th, 2019)
#63
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
Rockauto has a promotion on KYB shocks until the end of the month. I just ordered a pair of "Gas-A-Just" monotubes for the rear.
#64
CF Active Member
I found one of my stock rear shocks leaking, which led me to the KYB replacements. I've been happy with them. Like you, I didn't really notice enough extra bounce to cause me to look for the bad shock, I just discovered it while I was underneath doing some other work. However, I definitely noticed the improvement after I installed the new KYB Gas-a-just shocks. I replaced all 4. I think it took me longer to jack up and stabilize the van than it did to replace the shocks.
#65
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
The handling was getting pretty bad. I think because these vans have a long wheelbase they don't really bounce fore and aft very much. But the high center of gravity makes them wobble side to side. On the highway at high speed, it even felt unsafe at times. Like it wanted to fishtail. Bumps were becoming quite jarring etc.
Anyway, I put in the KYB's.
"All the best stuff is made in japan"
Installation was fairly straightforward. You will need a 13mm socket for the top mounts. (1500 van)
On the passenger side, you have maneuver between the frame and the exhaust. On the driver side, the mount is between the frame and the gas tank. Plus the shock tubes obscure the bolt heads somewhat. Have a long wobble extension ready.
I was disappointed to see GM used these flimsy clips.
If you live in the rust belt, you may want to buy a new set of these. These shocks did not come with any hardware.
The bottom mounts have an 18mm bolt (unusual size), and a 21mm nut. You will want a deep socket for the nut.
One old shock was totally dead. It behaved like a spring. I could feel the gas inside compress and rebound instantly, and there was no damping whatsoever. Fluid poured out of it like a faucet. The other shock was a bit worn but still worked. Maybe the bad shock suffered a premature death from a failed seal or something. There was no discernible brand marking on it.
Last edited by mountainmanjoe; May 29th, 2020 at 1:00 AM.
#66
Super Moderator
Thread Starter
The van feels so stable now.
#69
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Join Date: May 2019
Location: Satan's hole, A.K.A Florida
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Front passenger started squealing recently, thought it's time to change some bearings. Got parts ready and tools out. Breakdown to caliper, turn the wheel. SCREEETCH. Take caliper off, smooth. Need brake pads and some lubrication.
#70
I finally got my engine console block done today. Now I have 3 cigarette lighter jacks and 3 cup holders. 2 for drinks 1 for cell phone. I also have a cup for oddball stuff and a coin holder. Best set up I've ever had. old one laying on the red towel.
Last edited by jimmydriver; October 20th, 2019 at 8:54 PM. Reason: forgot