I have a maybe late 60 to early 70's Chev steering column with tilt and auto on column and key on RHS of column with the chrome finger tabs to operate. Recently, the lock cylinder has become stick in the ON position and will not return to any prior positions.
The key can be moved to the START position and will start the car but not return after engine stopped. (To stop I am taking out the fuse for the fuel pump. The engine is an LS1. It then runs out of fuel to stop). We are ready to pull apart the top of the column and just waiting for delivery of the steering wheel lock plate removal tool. It is necessary to get into this area to access the screw that holds the key barrel to remove it after taking out the indicator mechanism.
My initial question is that maybe it is not the key stuck in the barrel, but the rod that travels through the ignition switch that is screwed to the column. So can the key get stuck in the barrel and prevent it returning to other positions, and if we replace the barrel the problem is solved? The column below the dash is very inaccessible, so hoping we just have a key problem. I realise that it could also be something that is jamming the rod but still letting it move to the start position to start the car. The key and barrel are over 50 years old so would be a lot of wear, so I will be replacing it irrespective of the final solution.
PS The car is a 1948 Hudson custom and picture attached.

 

I can't help you with your question but that is one cool looking car.

 

If you’re still needing an answer…. (Edited @ 4th paragraph)

The key can get stuck, which is usually the result of the tumbler pins sticking/binding, which can then prevent the cylinder from rotating.

What’s more often the case is the gear strip (actuator) that the key cylinder engages is gummed up, worn out, and/or broken (ref. part #18 in illustration below).

Your column may not be exactly as the one pictured but it will be close enough to give you an idea of what to look for.

The inside end of the key cylinder engages the actuator with a basic, straight-tooth gear mesh (if the cylinder has a rectangular or spade-shaped end, that is what engages the actuator it fits into a mating gear that meshes with the actuator). The passage in the column housing collects debris over time and can interfere with the gear movement and even causes breakage of the gear strip and linkage.

There are some aftermarket replacements and/or repair kits - Dorman - Ignition Actuators is one option.

If you can provide any ID information at all from the column (even a photo of the ignition switch electrical connector) it should be possible to find exactly the parts you need.

You’ll likely need to at least drop the column, if not remove it, to repair the actuator or linkage. I’d recommend removal because it will allow easy access to the entirety of the column for cleaning, repair and inspection.


Part# 18 is the actuator & linkage

PS That hornet looks amazing.

PPS I’m a native Iowan so I have to ask: How does it handle in the snow?