HI I AM NEW--OLD Please help-This should be easily explained but 2 of my motorhead friends are stumped.
I have a Gen 1 350 Goodwrench 4 bolt main truck crate motor that came with tins. I purchased the engine with about 50,000 miles on it. I cleaned the outside and repainted put chrome tins on its. New Aluminum intake using a professionally rebuilt Rochester Qjet spread bore. I put it on a stand to work on. I checked inside out and was very clean and wear was consistent with miles. I inspected the timing chain and it was stretched. So for 23 buck and change I replaced it. I lined up the cam shaft and crank marks with the cam at 6 O'clock and the crank at 12 O'clock just as the instructions said. I pulled the gear no problems. I put the new set back on in the exact positions and re-tinned. I dropped a MSD HEI distributor with some break in lube but first I turned the motor over until I had cylinder 1 on TDC compression stroke. I actually used a dial indicator through the spark plug hole. The rotor points at the number one terminal on cap so I thought great! I'm not 180 degrees off. Then I looked down at the 8" balancer and the line was about 24 degrees retarded from 0 on the indexer. Shouldn't the balancer line mark and the index agree at O???? But it does not...What am I missing? When I continue to rotate the crank clockwise with a long handled ratchet so as t move it toward the 0 mark the piston starts moving down away from TDC. WHY oh WHY don't the timing marks line up at 0? I created a picture to show what's up.

 

just pull the distributor out and turn the gear slightly and reinstall. it will take a few tries to get it as close as possible.

its going to be before the 0 on the timing mark regardless at the end. the small block chevy runs at around 8 degrees before top dead center. you wont have the mechanical timing perfect until its in the car running (or attempting to run) and you can hook up a proper timing light.

 

Thanks for that info. I was going to "power" time it then use the light. I was just wondering why when #1 cylinder on compression stroke @TDC, the balancer pointer does not line up with the line notch on the balancer. So it is intended to be advanced at TDC compression??? (this is main question) [scratching head]

Is that right? seems it's around 8-12 degrees off when #1 cylinder is TDC, sorry, I just don't get it.

I do understand what you say about starting off with it close because it is all about position of the distributor. I think your saying I might be a tooth off and it is meaningless when I haven't started it.

 

Sadly no one seems to know after 176 views whether #1 cylinder @TDC compression on a sbc V8 the harmonic balancer line mark will be at the 0 degrees on indexed pointer. Maybe I am just to eager to get the engine fired up. I will call an engine builder I guess.
Thanks anyway....

 

Ok, which side of the car engine are you looking at? Should be drivers side front.

 

The answer is YES

Pull out your distributor set the mark at ZERO and reinstall the distributor pointing at cylinder #1. that will set your timing up pretty good. once the engine is running, with a timing light your looking for about 8* BTDC on the timing light with the balancer at 0* to get it running nicely (alternatively set the mark at 8* btdc and the timing light should be at 0*)

all of the information regarding the installation of the timing set is somewhat of a confusing addition to a rather simple question.

the position of the timing set is irrelevant at this point in your build. once TDC is achieved both dots will be at 12:00

the positioning of the distributor is not critical at this point. you are a few teeth off.

 

@nj, thanks! that makes absolutely perfects sense. That's how I should have done it first off to get it close. Thanks for the help. Doing it that way will let me know where my "1" is to begin with. I can re-stab the distributor after that to get my most movement needed. If I am off I can move one gear tooth. I can reach down with my pump turning tool and move it little so it drops in also considering the movement that is causes by the gear bevel. I think I remember some bumping the motor until the distributer drops in. I will do it the safer way. I was thinking backwards, even though that would have worked as well. Your way is better. -Regards

 

The last time I changed out a distributor my 355 ate the gear off the old one and once i had my balancer set i just turned the oil pump slightly with a flathead screwdriver and dropped the new distributor in. it took a few tries to get the teeth lined up right but once it was pretty close i put the hold down clamp on and left it a little loose so it could be turned while i had the timing light on it. the engine was a TPI engine so there was a little bit more involved, getting the electronic spark advance off so it didnt mess with my mechanical timing. once i was satisfied i was at 8*, and the engine was running strong i just tightened up the distributor bolt. there is a special distributor wrench that makes this job so much easier with the engine in the car

 

I did as I/we described. For this new motor build I used a low end MSD GM style HEI, put a dollop of break in lube on the gear. I injected an ounce or so of gas in the carb and then remote cranked it and it started in the first several revolutions. However, just like you said I had the timing light ready and was WAY retarded. I turned the distributor COUNTER clockwise to advance and it really started to smooth out but the vacuum advance hit the manifold before I could get to around 12 BTDC. So I just shut it off. match marked the MSD body and manifold were it was at, pulled the distributor, looked down the hole with a bright LED light, took a long screwdriver and slightly turned the oil pump counter clockwise. I then put the distributor back in an turned it until it dropped all the way in, and now I have plenty of adjustment. I then finished off with the timing light and a total timing afterwards for power curve.

FYI, for a 350 (or any sbc) with corvette style Ramhorns, I used a plug wire set from a 1980 Suburban with a 454 (long wires). They have 90 degree connects at the cap and long heavy and thick high heat straight boots spark plug boots. I was amazed that they were so Heavy Duty 8mm Made in USA! wires for 26 dollars at O'R..This let me go nicely over the top with valve cover stand offs. I wish I could pass this on....This has been an ongoing issue over or under for years.

Thanks again for your help.

 

I'm very happy to have helped solve your problem. How about a few pictures of the engine?