RANS

I HAVE JUST RECENTLY PURCHASE THE SUBURBAN AND TODAY I HAD APROBLEM WITH IT. IT WI=ONT START.EVERBODY TOLD ME IT IS THEFT DETERRENT SYSTEM. THE MOTOR TURNS OVER FINE. I LET IT SIT OVERNIGHT AND NO DIFFERENCE.THE FLASHING LIGHT STILL IS FLASHING.ANY HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED

313hitman

if the hazard lights are flashing... most likely the alarm is active but in silent mode. some alarms disable the starter but mine disables my fuel pump. maybe your alarm is like mine.

RANS

THE HAZARD LIGHTS ARE NOT ON BUT IT TURNS OVER BUT WONT START ANY SOLUTION

313hitman

do you have spark?? if yes then unplug your fuel filter and have a friend try to start it. if no fuel comes out then the fuel pump is bad.

RANS

ANYWAY TO BYPASS THE SECURITY SYSTEM SO I CAN GET THE THING FIXED OR IS GOING TO BE TOWED IN?

golfer

It may not the factory ( Passlock) security system. You may have other issues like 313hitman was pointing out.

Try disconnecting the negative battery cable for 15 minutes or so then see what happens.

HDDP

I have the same problem...
I'M AT AN IMPASS !

I recently purchased a 1998 Suburban K2500 at an insurance auction for the specific reason of towing my race car to-and-from the track. The Suburban had been stolen and then recovered and had an aftermarket security system / remote start, etc. but when it was recovered, the ignition lock had been destroyed, the wiring under the dash and the aftermarket security system had been ripped-up, and the key is not even one with a pellet...

Fully aware of this damage before I bid on the car, I used a pair of wires to jump the leads of the starter relay located in the power distribution box under the hood... The car fired-up and ran briefly until, what I assume was the fuel cut-out at the injectors caused by the VATS. Needless to say, I won the bid and had to have the car towed to my house, where it currently sits...

I have already removed the dash, cluster, etc. to try to get the thing to fire-up and it repeatedly dies after a few seconds... bare in mind the only way I can get it to turn over is by jumping the starter relay leads...

Since the dash is already removed and the lock is destroyed, Is there any way I can completely bypass the VATS / PASSLOCK without having the fuel cut-out, so I can at least drive the beast to a shop and work on it properly... Or, at very least, get it off the street...

golfer

Judging from your description of getting the vehicle started and then it stalls shortly sounds like the PassLock2 system is doing it's thing.

In the ignition wire harness there should bethin gageyellow and orange/black wires that run from the key switch tumbler. These two wires are for the PassLock 2 signal lines from the switch. The key doesn't have any chip or pellet , it's the tumbler switch itself that provides the signal to the BCM. When the BCM receives the correct signal it tells the ECM to keep the fuel pump running otherwise it shuts it down. The BCM is programmed to the specific signal from that particular tumbler switch so just replacing the switch won't work without having the BCM learn the replacement.

If you cut the thin yellow wire then bare the two ends of the wireand with an ohmmeterplace one lead to one end ... the other lead to the other half of the wire. When the switch is moved to start then to run you will see an ohms reading... notethat ohms reading. Then go to Radio Shack and get a resistor of that same value ( has to be within 1% ) and solder it to the two ends of that cut yellow wire. Once this is in place this will provide the appropriate signal to disengage the PassLock2 when the vehicle is running.

Now the trick... this has to be done with the original ignition tumbler switch.

HDDP

Thanks for the info GOLFER:

Unfortunately the ignition lock was replaced by the seller to make the car look more intact, so I'm out-of-luck in those respects... How about a way way to completely bypass the system so I can get it running long enough to get it to a shop without towing... Does jumping the starter relay bypass the BCM / PCM to allow the engine to run long enough to drive it to a shop ?

golfer

No it doesn't

I just re-read your OP and overlooked the mention of a remote starter had been installed. When this was installed there would have been at least the resistor in place are a by pass module ( which is basically the same thing other than it has muliple resistance values toallow the appropraite one selected ) spliced into the yellow wire previously mentioned. Is it there and hooked up ?

It might be possible to hot wire the fuel pump line with a switch. That way if you get it started you could turn the switch on allowing power to the fuel pump to remain on.