98 SUBURBAN
May 26th, 2007, 12:12 PM
#11
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RE: 98 SUBURBAN
Yes, there was a DEI 555L bypass module laying on the floor under the driver seat, the wires to that harness had been pulled out, so not knowing the proper connection point, I would have to go track that down... Thanks for all your help, I was just hoping to find a quick way to get it running long enough to get it off the street and into a shop...
May 26th, 2007, 5:03 PM
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RE: 98 SUBURBAN
GOLFER:
Just a follow-up incase someone from this forum ever experiences this type of problem in the future... I tracked down the wiring for the damaged aftermarket security system (which was a Bulldog) and removed all the jumpers from the harness' under the dash. Also traced back the aftermarket wiring that was to the Passkey bypass module (DEI 555L) that had been torn out... I verified the connections at the ignition lock by visual inspection (BTW not the original lock cylinder and without a pellet type key) and traced the wires back to the jumpers that had been installed for the DEI 555L... I re-attached the Yellow, Black/Orange to the multi-pin connector that was part of the DEI bypass module... The car still would not start from turning the key, just a slight click from a module located under the dashboard near the driver side door (this module is metal and measures about 4" sq.)... Also noticed that the headlights, map lights illuminated during this process... (PS: the tiny security system light that normally would be in the dash had been removed as well during the damage from the theft).
Anyway, the car wouldn't turn over, starter wouldn't engage, etc...
So I tried the typical "HAIL MARY" and opened-up the power distibution box under the hood, located directly in front of the driver firewall and looked at the printed scematic inside the top to locate the Starter Relay and removed it from the fuse housing... I then took a 10 guage jumper wire and started randomly jumping each of the four leads together... Here's the final report...
Turn the key to the ON position, open the hood and remove the starter relay switch (standing at the driver side fender looking toward the passenger side fender)(there are four pins on this relay that plug into the fuse housing socket at 10 o'clock, 2 o'clock, 5 o'clock and 7 o'clock positions), take a jumper wire and make a quick connection between the sockets at the 2 o'clock and 7 o'clock positions... This will immediately turn the starter over and start the car... Remove the jumpers quickly so not to continue to activate the starter / solenoid... This process allowed me to run / drive the car... to where it had to be taken (30 + minutes) without any problems aside from the headlights / map lights being illuminated...
When I arrived at the shop, I merely turned off the key and the engine stopped... I then repeated the process to make sure it could be replicated, and it did, over and over again...
I'm listing some search words to help other people to locate this thread ( 1998 Chevy Suburban, Passkey, VATS, Disable, Override, Bypass, Ignition Lock, Starter Relay)
I hope this helps another stranded motorist get the car to a repair shop without the costly expense of towing...
Derek
Just a follow-up incase someone from this forum ever experiences this type of problem in the future... I tracked down the wiring for the damaged aftermarket security system (which was a Bulldog) and removed all the jumpers from the harness' under the dash. Also traced back the aftermarket wiring that was to the Passkey bypass module (DEI 555L) that had been torn out... I verified the connections at the ignition lock by visual inspection (BTW not the original lock cylinder and without a pellet type key) and traced the wires back to the jumpers that had been installed for the DEI 555L... I re-attached the Yellow, Black/Orange to the multi-pin connector that was part of the DEI bypass module... The car still would not start from turning the key, just a slight click from a module located under the dashboard near the driver side door (this module is metal and measures about 4" sq.)... Also noticed that the headlights, map lights illuminated during this process... (PS: the tiny security system light that normally would be in the dash had been removed as well during the damage from the theft).
Anyway, the car wouldn't turn over, starter wouldn't engage, etc...
So I tried the typical "HAIL MARY" and opened-up the power distibution box under the hood, located directly in front of the driver firewall and looked at the printed scematic inside the top to locate the Starter Relay and removed it from the fuse housing... I then took a 10 guage jumper wire and started randomly jumping each of the four leads together... Here's the final report...
Turn the key to the ON position, open the hood and remove the starter relay switch (standing at the driver side fender looking toward the passenger side fender)(there are four pins on this relay that plug into the fuse housing socket at 10 o'clock, 2 o'clock, 5 o'clock and 7 o'clock positions), take a jumper wire and make a quick connection between the sockets at the 2 o'clock and 7 o'clock positions... This will immediately turn the starter over and start the car... Remove the jumpers quickly so not to continue to activate the starter / solenoid... This process allowed me to run / drive the car... to where it had to be taken (30 + minutes) without any problems aside from the headlights / map lights being illuminated...
When I arrived at the shop, I merely turned off the key and the engine stopped... I then repeated the process to make sure it could be replicated, and it did, over and over again...
I'm listing some search words to help other people to locate this thread ( 1998 Chevy Suburban, Passkey, VATS, Disable, Override, Bypass, Ignition Lock, Starter Relay)
I hope this helps another stranded motorist get the car to a repair shop without the costly expense of towing...
Derek
May 26th, 2007, 5:29 PM
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RE: 98 SUBURBAN
ORIGINAL: golfer
Judging from your description of getting the vehicle started and then it stalls shortly sounds like the PassLock2 system is doing it's thing.
In the ignition wire harness there should be thin gage yellow and orange/black wires that run from the key switch tumbler. These two wires are for the PassLock 2 signal lines from the switch. The key doesn't have any chip or pellet , it's the tumbler switch itself that provides the signal to the BCM. When the BCM receives the correct signal it tells the ECM to keep the fuel pump running otherwise it shuts it down. The BCM is programmed to the specific signal from that particular tumbler switch so just replacing the switch won't work without having the BCM learn the replacement.
If you cut the thin yellow wire then bare the two ends of the wire and with an ohmmeter place one lead to one end ... the other lead to the other half of the wire. When the switch is moved to start then to run you will see an ohms reading ... note that ohms reading. Then go to Radio Shack and get a resistor of that same value ( has to be within 1% ) and solder it to the two ends of that cut yellow wire. Once this is in place this will provide the appropriate signal to disengage the PassLock2 when the vehicle is running.
Now the trick ... this has to be done with the original ignition tumbler switch.
Judging from your description of getting the vehicle started and then it stalls shortly sounds like the PassLock2 system is doing it's thing.
In the ignition wire harness there should be thin gage yellow and orange/black wires that run from the key switch tumbler. These two wires are for the PassLock 2 signal lines from the switch. The key doesn't have any chip or pellet , it's the tumbler switch itself that provides the signal to the BCM. When the BCM receives the correct signal it tells the ECM to keep the fuel pump running otherwise it shuts it down. The BCM is programmed to the specific signal from that particular tumbler switch so just replacing the switch won't work without having the BCM learn the replacement.
If you cut the thin yellow wire then bare the two ends of the wire and with an ohmmeter place one lead to one end ... the other lead to the other half of the wire. When the switch is moved to start then to run you will see an ohms reading ... note that ohms reading. Then go to Radio Shack and get a resistor of that same value ( has to be within 1% ) and solder it to the two ends of that cut yellow wire. Once this is in place this will provide the appropriate signal to disengage the PassLock2 when the vehicle is running.
Now the trick ... this has to be done with the original ignition tumbler switch.
February 14th, 2008, 6:20 PM
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RE: 98 SUBURBAN
NOW WOULD THIS TRICK WORK ON A 2000 HD2500 6.0 ??? MY TRUCKS DOING THE SAME THING ...BUT IT HAS 3 SMALL WIRES COMING OUT OF THE TUMBLER SECTION ...YELLOW-ORANGE/BLK &RED .... CAN I STILL CUT THE YELLOW WIRE AND PUT RESISTER IN BETWEEN THE ENDS TO FIX MY PROBLEM ?????MY SCANNER IS SAYING P1646 CODE ANTI-THEFT .... ANY HELP WOULD BE VERY COOOOL.
THANKS IN ADVANCE .....JIM
THANKS IN ADVANCE .....JIM 
THANKS AGAIN
February 15th, 2008, 10:02 AM
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RE: 98 SUBURBAN
Not to offend or seem ignorant but i know all of us as consumers are sick and tired of the ridiculous electronics in the newer vehicles. Why not determine what you need to make the vehicle run and get rid of the rest. I have recently done this to a 93' TBI motor in my 81 P/U and am considering doing it to my 97 Chrysler Cirrus. The stock harness that i attained ran a Chevy astro van with a v6 and an automatic tranny. All in all there were about 65 wires on the harness and i cut it down to 21. Eliminated the knock sensor aka your ear and paying attention one of the coolant sensors why do you need 2 ? And of couse all of the EGR controls and EVAP sensors.
Granted those who have to pass emmisions cant really get away with this because of the check engine light coming on due to all sensors not being hooked up.(Thank god there are no more emmisions in Colorado). It is really rediculous that a vehicle can pass the CO CO2 and NOX portion of the test but if some stupid light is on then it fails.
If i run into problems like yours with the VATS shutting the vehicle down ill run my own wires and the problem is solved. Just a thought
Granted those who have to pass emmisions cant really get away with this because of the check engine light coming on due to all sensors not being hooked up.(Thank god there are no more emmisions in Colorado). It is really rediculous that a vehicle can pass the CO CO2 and NOX portion of the test but if some stupid light is on then it fails.
If i run into problems like yours with the VATS shutting the vehicle down ill run my own wires and the problem is solved. Just a thought
