Coolant System
February 14th, 2013, 6:21 AM
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Coolant System
I have a 1992 G20 Van with a 5.7L 350.
My question is this. Currently the serpentine belt is broken and I have a small hole in the radiator that is obviously leaking coolant. I was putting distilled water in the radiator to make short trips to the store before the serpentine belt broke. I will be able to afford a new radiator and belt on the 3rd of march 2013, until then i am worried if the temperature drops below freezing the freeze plugs and or the block will crack. I've added antifreeze to the radiator, but with the serpentine belt broken, the water pump doesn't run. When the radiator is mostly empty, as it is now, does the coolant drain out of the engine and into the radiator or do I need to worry about getting that belt fixed to avoid damage to the engine.
Thanks in advance.
Bill
My question is this. Currently the serpentine belt is broken and I have a small hole in the radiator that is obviously leaking coolant. I was putting distilled water in the radiator to make short trips to the store before the serpentine belt broke. I will be able to afford a new radiator and belt on the 3rd of march 2013, until then i am worried if the temperature drops below freezing the freeze plugs and or the block will crack. I've added antifreeze to the radiator, but with the serpentine belt broken, the water pump doesn't run. When the radiator is mostly empty, as it is now, does the coolant drain out of the engine and into the radiator or do I need to worry about getting that belt fixed to avoid damage to the engine.
Thanks in advance.
Bill
February 15th, 2013, 3:39 AM
#2
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I guess you gotta do what you gotta do, but...
The "water" in the Engine can't ever be totally drained, unless you really go to a lot of trouble. So, when you don't have Antifreeze present, you're asking for a problem. Also, you're really taxing the engine when you drive it without the coolant circulating.
But, it depends on just how cold it gets. The engine is pretty tough, and will resist damage until you have sustained very cold Temps. I can't say exactly what that temp is, but, you're probably ok as long as it stays in the 30's. IF it drops below that, then...
You know you really should stop driving it... right
The "water" in the Engine can't ever be totally drained, unless you really go to a lot of trouble. So, when you don't have Antifreeze present, you're asking for a problem. Also, you're really taxing the engine when you drive it without the coolant circulating.
But, it depends on just how cold it gets. The engine is pretty tough, and will resist damage until you have sustained very cold Temps. I can't say exactly what that temp is, but, you're probably ok as long as it stays in the 30's. IF it drops below that, then...
You know you really should stop driving it... right
February 15th, 2013, 6:22 AM
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I guess you gotta do what you gotta do, but...
The "water" in the Engine can't ever be totally drained, unless you really go to a lot of trouble. So, when you don't have Antifreeze present, you're asking for a problem. Also, you're really taxing the engine when you drive it without the coolant circulating.
But, it depends on just how cold it gets. The engine is pretty tough, and will resist damage until you have sustained very cold Temps. I can't say exactly what that temp is, but, you're probably ok as long as it stays in the 30's. IF it drops below that, then...
You know you really should stop driving it... right
The "water" in the Engine can't ever be totally drained, unless you really go to a lot of trouble. So, when you don't have Antifreeze present, you're asking for a problem. Also, you're really taxing the engine when you drive it without the coolant circulating.
But, it depends on just how cold it gets. The engine is pretty tough, and will resist damage until you have sustained very cold Temps. I can't say exactly what that temp is, but, you're probably ok as long as it stays in the 30's. IF it drops below that, then...
You know you really should stop driving it... right
Thank you for your response, it makes me feel a lot better.
February 15th, 2013, 2:41 PM
#5
Super Moderator
Ya know, given that there may be a trace of Antifreeze present, you probably are going to be ok (even down through the mid 20's). Just the smallest amount of that stuff, will prohibit water from going hard (sorta creates a slush), which won't put a lot of pressure/expansion on the metal.
Other things you can do...
Leave the Radiator Cap off, where if there is expansion, it can move.
Put a Drop Light/old Lamp under the Engine, and set a few Cardboard Boxes around the sides.
Move it inside (garage/building).
You'd be surprised how many of us here on the Forum, have been in the position where we had to "wait", to get something fixed on our rides.
Other things you can do...
Leave the Radiator Cap off, where if there is expansion, it can move.
Put a Drop Light/old Lamp under the Engine, and set a few Cardboard Boxes around the sides.
Move it inside (garage/building).
You'd be surprised how many of us here on the Forum, have been in the position where we had to "wait", to get something fixed on our rides.
February 17th, 2013, 12:37 AM
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Ya know, given that there may be a trace of Antifreeze present, you probably are going to be ok (even down through the mid 20's). Just the smallest amount of that stuff, will prohibit water from going hard (sorta creates a slush), which won't put a lot of pressure/expansion on the metal.
Other things you can do...
Leave the Radiator Cap off, where if there is expansion, it can move.
Put a Drop Light/old Lamp under the Engine, and set a few Cardboard Boxes around the sides.
Move it inside (garage/building).
You'd be surprised how many of us here on the Forum, have been in the position where we had to "wait", to get something fixed on our rides.
Other things you can do...
Leave the Radiator Cap off, where if there is expansion, it can move.
Put a Drop Light/old Lamp under the Engine, and set a few Cardboard Boxes around the sides.
Move it inside (garage/building).
You'd be surprised how many of us here on the Forum, have been in the position where we had to "wait", to get something fixed on our rides.
I don't have the option of parking it in a garage, as our garage is pretty cluttered and used as a wood shop. Could you elaborate on the drop light and boxes, I'm not sure I follow you. The temp hasn't been below 32F yet, but the forecast is 27 or so coming this next saturday. Again thanks for being a great bunch of people. I really appreciate it.
Also, I got up under the van tonight, and turned all the pulleys. One of them, which had no grooves, was loose or broken and wobbled, which is why I'm thinking the belt slipped off and broke. It doesn't seem to be attached to any component, maybe only used to keep the belt tight. Not the tension pulley mind you, but another pulley that seems to have no other purpose.
February 17th, 2013, 3:52 AM
#7
Super Moderator
Your kind words are greatly appreciated, we're glad to help where we can.
On The Drop Light...
When placed under the engine would provide a heat source, and the Boxes to create an enclosure where the heat could rise and moderately assist in keeping the temp up some. But given the trace of Antifreeze which probably is present, I don't think you have anything to worry about at 27 deg.
On that additional pulley...
Most vehicles have a Diagram of the Serpentine Belt Route (a sticker), have you seen anything like that stuck somewhere under the hood ?
If you can't find that, you should go to the Chevy Website, and do a lookup for the specific model, and there should be a diagram. I'm thinking that it's just an "idler", which should be replaced since it's broken.
PS: most times Idler's are used in longer runs of Belts, to keep the vibrations/noise down, but are very necessary for proper operation.
On The Drop Light...
When placed under the engine would provide a heat source, and the Boxes to create an enclosure where the heat could rise and moderately assist in keeping the temp up some. But given the trace of Antifreeze which probably is present, I don't think you have anything to worry about at 27 deg.
On that additional pulley...
Most vehicles have a Diagram of the Serpentine Belt Route (a sticker), have you seen anything like that stuck somewhere under the hood ?
If you can't find that, you should go to the Chevy Website, and do a lookup for the specific model, and there should be a diagram. I'm thinking that it's just an "idler", which should be replaced since it's broken.
PS: most times Idler's are used in longer runs of Belts, to keep the vibrations/noise down, but are very necessary for proper operation.
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February 18th, 2013, 10:56 AM
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Your kind words are greatly appreciated, we're glad to help where we can.
On The Drop Light...
When placed under the engine would provide a heat source, and the Boxes to create an enclosure where the heat could rise and moderately assist in keeping the temp up some. But given the trace of Antifreeze which probably is present, I don't think you have anything to worry about at 27 deg.
On that additional pulley...
Most vehicles have a Diagram of the Serpentine Belt Route (a sticker), have you seen anything like that stuck somewhere under the hood ?
If you can't find that, you should go to the Chevy Website, and do a lookup for the specific model, and there should be a diagram. I'm thinking that it's just an "idler", which should be replaced since it's broken.
PS: most times Idler's are used in longer runs of Belts, to keep the vibrations/noise down, but are very necessary for proper operation.
On The Drop Light...
When placed under the engine would provide a heat source, and the Boxes to create an enclosure where the heat could rise and moderately assist in keeping the temp up some. But given the trace of Antifreeze which probably is present, I don't think you have anything to worry about at 27 deg.
On that additional pulley...
Most vehicles have a Diagram of the Serpentine Belt Route (a sticker), have you seen anything like that stuck somewhere under the hood ?
If you can't find that, you should go to the Chevy Website, and do a lookup for the specific model, and there should be a diagram. I'm thinking that it's just an "idler", which should be replaced since it's broken.
PS: most times Idler's are used in longer runs of Belts, to keep the vibrations/noise down, but are very necessary for proper operation.
Yes, after looking in my Chilton, it does seem to be an idler. Thank god chevy parts are so inexpensive. I can get a replacement for about 20 bucks at the local auto parts store. The Radiator is only 135 and the good belt is 45, is there a reason I should get the good belt over the $27 belt?
Thanks again you guys are great. =)
February 18th, 2013, 12:08 PM
#9
Super Moderator
Not sure how to advise you on that...
Depends on the quality of the "cheeper" belt.
For that price...I'd be inclined to give it a try anyway
Given that most belts are $50-100/+, you could keep a spare on hand
But (besides the radiator prob) the Idler was the cause of all this...
Since you're replacing it, you could get a known "good" belt, and forget it for a bunch of miles as if it were all new (ha, most of it will be
).
Depends on the quality of the "cheeper" belt.
For that price...I'd be inclined to give it a try anyway
Given that most belts are $50-100/+, you could keep a spare on hand
But (besides the radiator prob) the Idler was the cause of all this...
Since you're replacing it, you could get a known "good" belt, and forget it for a bunch of miles as if it were all new (ha, most of it will be
).
Last edited by SWHouston; February 18th, 2013 at 12:30 PM.
