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Need help!!! Need a Heim Joint for 2008 Chevy Suburban

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Old Dec 24, 2024 | 12:15 PM
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Default Need help!!! Need a Heim Joint for 2008 Chevy Suburban

Howdy.

I need to replace my outer tie rod ends with heim joints in order to resolve an angle problem. The rig is lifted 11" and the outer tie rod ends bind when the suspension is relaxed. Does anyone know what the specs are on the inner tie rod end? Thread count, pitch, diameter, metric or standard, etc? Also, does anyone know where to get heim joints that would fit?





Thanks.
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Old Dec 24, 2024 | 5:43 PM
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With an 11” lift, your best bet is someplace like Rough Country that specializes in lift kits & mod parts.
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Old Dec 24, 2024 | 5:52 PM
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Attached is a pictures of my tie rods, with the suspension extended (relaxed) more than normal drive height. Even with the bent tir rods, one outer ball joint binds with the front wheels off the ground. I plane to get new inner tie rods and then get a hiem joint outer than is raised up an inch or two. As for bumper steer, I can install a steering damper if that would help. Also have to consider binding posibity of inner tie rod that can handle more articulation than the outer, but has limits as well. Chains would be used to stop too much suspension drop to protect the inner tire rod ends.

Thoughts?





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Old Dec 24, 2024 | 5:55 PM
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Someone suggested these, but they are $700 to $800 a pair. Not withing the budget for this build.








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Old Dec 26, 2024 | 7:07 PM
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I’m not too knowledgeable about aftermarket mod parts, so I can’t help much in providing a source.

As far as problem resolution, here’s the advice I can offer:

I think lift is too high to be successful without significant modification to the suspension and steering. By the pics you posted, I’m surprised the tie rods aren’t jammed up against the struts all the time.

The steering & suspension work together to provide stability as well as control and they’re both at the extreme end of the angles they are designed for.

If you don’t have the budget to purchase parts designed for this kind of thing, then maybe reducing the lift is the way to go.

The extreme angle is also gonna chew up the CV joints on the axles whether it’s in 4x4 or not.
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Old Dec 26, 2024 | 8:45 PM
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Increased wear is a possibility. I can budget $300 or so per year for new CV axles, tie rod ends, etc - for replacement parts. Labor is free.
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Old Dec 26, 2024 | 8:54 PM
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The Fabtech 6" lift utilizes the stock upper control arm, and stock inner tie rod end. So adding 4 inches to that, means I am basically lifting a stock rig about 4 inches - give or take. So there are challenges, but I'm for a challenge. All I need to do is solve the outer tie rod issue and then chain the struts to solve the inner tie rod issue. Its derivable now, with no issues, but if the front suspension was fully relaxed, it can bind the outer tie rods. As a road rig, it should be fine. Offroading would be an issue for sure. I just want to mod it enough that there are zero bind issues, even if the rig was airborne.
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Old Dec 27, 2024 | 12:27 PM
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What about this idea? A heavy duty metal bracket that lowers the inner tie rod end by 3-4 inches. It would be VERY thick and heavy duty to prevent bending and metal fatigue. Thread locker of course. I would probably add additional safety items as well. Perhaps some tack welds here and there to keep things from twisting or coming loose. But what do you think of the concept?



Last edited by starman8tdc; Dec 27, 2024 at 12:31 PM.
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Old Dec 27, 2024 | 6:38 PM
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The problem with the concept is that the pistons actually retract into the rack by at least 3-4 inches at full stop, so the plate would really restrict the turning radius when it bottoms against the rack tube - they may even prevent turning the wheels at all.

Also, the bellows wouldn’t work as a tube seal, so you’d have to leave the tube ends exposed to dirt & debris, which will eventually cause the rack end seals to start leaking unless you find another way to seal them.

Even assuming there’s a way to resolve those issues, I think even a 1” thick piece of hardened steel is unlikely to work over time. It may perform well at first but I think the additional leverage will eventually cause the tie rods to bend.

Originally Posted by starman8tdc
What about this idea? A heavy duty metal bracket that lowers the inner tie rod end by 3-4 inches. It would be VERY thick and heavy duty to prevent bending and metal fatigue. Thread locker of course. I would probably add additional safety items as well. Perhaps some tack welds here and there to keep things from twisting or coming loose. But what do you think of the concept?

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Old Dec 27, 2024 | 7:10 PM
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Thanks for the input. So cut the outer tie rod end mounting point off of the steering knuckle and have it professionally welded back on 4 inches higher? Thoughts?
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